would this be a problem? leds, 08 tundra

Hello all,
First I am JD. I have been a lurker on here for a lil while and have learned a good bit. I am preparing to install some leds on my truck but I just wanna get some opinions before I jump on this.
Setup:
2008 Tundra SR5 Double Cab
These leds:

The LEDs that I am wanting to use.


I want to put two on each running boards. One at each end. Also I choose the amber color.
I would like to do this so that they correspond with the interior lights. The 08 Toyota has dimming interior lights and I would like the leds to match that behavior.

Thanks,
JD

-------------
Until you sign a blank check to your government in payment in the form of your life. You can not really say anything to upset me!! Have a good day!

Here is the address in case the link does not work.

https://www./itm/190578079828?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_4948wt_1014

Thanks,

JD

-------------
Until you sign a blank check to your government in payment in the form of your life. You can not really say anything to upset me!! Have a good day!

Incomplete URL.

The LEDs won't dim with the interior lights unless it's a PWM dimmer, and most are analog (they simply drop the current).

They will dim, just not in a linear fashion. It would be like the fuel gauge on an old 280ZX, the 1/8 tank to empty gauge will be at full tilt till it reaches 1/8 tank of fuel, then it begins to go down as well. The LEDs will not begin dimming until the Incandescent lamp is almost all the way out.

Spark, how are you going to reduce the current without reducing the voltage??

Thanks for the quick replies. Ok so I figured as much. Had to ask though. Another question for y'all in relation to this job. Where would y'all recommend wiring these to?
Thanks
JD

-------------
Until you sign a blank check to your government in payment in the form of your life. You can not really say anything to upset me!! Have a good day!

i am an idiot wrote:

---

Spark, how are you going to reduce the current without reducing the voltage??

---

PWM - LEDs do not dim linearly with resistive drops whereas PWM is essentially proportional dimming and matches most lamps.

Try a LED on a normal dimmer - it will barely dim until it eventually drops off radically.

Here is the link again. Hope it works.
https://item.mobileweb./viewitem?itemId=190578079828&index=2&nav=WON&nid=56765977853&trxId=587780716009


-------------
Until you sign a blank check to your government in payment in the form of your life. You can not really say anything to upset me!! Have a good day!

No - it lacks the "com", but even that isn't enough....

But in essence, LEDs is LEDs. If they are 12V, they can be powered in parallel to any 12V item.
And typically being lower in current (eg, 20mA per series string compared to 250mA for a 12V/3W bulb) they have negligible load effect. (EG - they are several tens ot hundreds of Ohms and thence can be placed across speakers.)
But they will not dim like bulbs, nor dim proportional to voltage (nor current?).

Well let me try it like this then:



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Total 20 LED Lights
5 x Ultra Bright 4 LED Courtesy Lights Pod w/ Chrome case
For Motorcycle, Automobile, Boat, and more
Available in following colors to choose from:
Blue, Red, Green, UV, Amber (Orange), White (Advise Pictures below)
This DIY 4-LED spreader comes with 4 LED bulbs diagonally mounted in a ellipse shape enclosure. They come with 3 foot long, 22 gauge and 2-wire black sheathed lead that can be widely used in any 12 volt application for motorcycles, boat, home decoration, auto modding and more.
________________________________________
    
________________________________________
Features:
Motorcycle / Car 4LED spreader comes with 4 LED bulbs mounted in a
Width 3/4" , Length 1 1/2", Height 3/8" enclosure.
•     They come with 3 foot long, 22 gauge wire
•      Easy 2-wire Positive/ Negative incased w/ a black sheathed jacket
•     Used for any 12 volt application (motorcycle, car or suv auto modding).
Installation Tips:
Use on Motorcycles, ATV's, Snowmobiles, Golf Carts, Go-Karts, Computers, Cars, Trucks, SUV’s, RV's, Motor Homes or anything you can think of.
A unique and smarter alternative to traditional neon tubes!!!
Benefits of using 12Volt LED’s vs Neon:
LED’s (Light Emitting Diodes) don't get hot like regular incandescent lamps or Neon, and only also use approx 2ma of Power.
•     LED LIGHTS use so little power they can be used in computers.
•      Hyper LED technology., ISO 9001 - These are the brightest leds on the market.
•     Make sure your leds are HYPER Bright.   
•     Leds typically last 100,000 hrs as opposed to neons at 30,000 hrs at best.
•     Leds are not prone to weather, and are virtually indestructible.
• Colors: Blue, Red, Green, Orange, UV, Amber, White ( Please note the color of choice along with payment for faster delivery)

Specifications:
• 4 Super Bright LED Bulbs.
• 22” Wire with 12v 4 pin male and female connectors
• 200,000 hour life (22 years)
• Voltage range 12-14 volts D.C.
• Draw: less than 26mA @ 12 volts!
• Dimensions (WxLxH): 1 1/2" x 3/8" x 3/4".

________________________________________
FAQ:
How do I mount these?
The 4LED pods can be mounted with screws (one on each side) or use glue, epoxy, tape, velcro etc. Twist ties can work well for motorcycles.
Is it water proof?
These are water resistant. They can be submerged in water, however we do not recommend for long term use.
What is it made from?
Made from plastic with chrome layer.
How much current does each take?
No more than 50 mA each unit. Don't worry about power consumption, these are very efficient.

-------------
Until you sign a blank check to your government in payment in the form of your life. You can not really say anything to upset me!! Have a good day!

spark something you said got me wondering..about being paralleled. So if I ran one pos and one neg all the way around the underchasis I should be able to tie into each wire and all the way around.
___________________________________{-}
____________|___________________|__{+}
    |+     -|          |+      -|
    |       |          |        |
     \     /            \      /
      [LED]              \[LED]

Sorry if this looks a bit silly but it was the best
I could do.

Still looking for suggestions as to where to tie in to for power.
Thanks
JD

-------------
Until you sign a blank check to your government in payment in the form of your life. You can not really say anything to upset me!! Have a good day!

Ah - it's eBay! This site censors eBay URLs. (IE - it's not you, it's me... I mean, it's this site.)
I post the item number (in this case 190578079828; in the RHS "Item Info" panel) and say eBay - then it's easy to find.

Ok, they are 12V LEDs, IE:
   Voltage range 12-14 volts D.C.
   Draw: less than 26mA @ 12 volts!

[ See - 26mA compared to my 20mA. Stuff-all compared to 5W & 10W bulbs (~400mA & 800mA respectively). ]


And yes, as per your diagram (which is fine; and less bytes than a drawing or pic!) which is the picture version of "connect in parallel" - ie, all +ve to +ve, all -ve to -ve.

In parallel, each "string" (pod) draws 26mA hence 5x26 = 130mA. That's equiv to 12V x .13A = 1.56W - ie, less than a 2W bulb!   Geez - I hope it doesn't strain your alternator (just kidding!!).


Powering is simple - between +12V and 0V (GND).
That can be through a switch at either end - eg, +12V to LEDs+ and LEDs- thru (dome light) door grounding or other switch to GND.

Or insert a dimmer which - as I wrote - has to be PWM for "linear" dimming.
PWM is Pulse Width Modulated. It switches 12V on and off. The ON time to the "cycle period" (ON + OFF time) is the Duty Cycle.
The Duty Cylce varies from 100% (full on) to 0% or close to 0% (fully or near fully off).
PWM is required for stuff that needs a constant voltage supply to operate - eg fluoro-light dimmers, motor speed controllers, LEDs, etc.)

[ Technical: Though the "average" voltage drops, the only voltage seen by the load (LEDs) is +12V else 0V. Hence they pulse at full brightness but the "average" brightness is essentially the Duty Cycle. And like TV screens etc, we cannot detect the flicker if it's faster than (say) 30Hz (30 cycles per second). I typically built PWMs using 555 timers (ICs aka chips) based on a frequency of 400Hz - eg, see dimmer on 65w halogen?.
It's a similar result for motors and fluoro lights etc. And for lamps that can use "ordinary" resistive dimmers. ]


Though those pod specs claim 12V-14V operation - and since 12V vehicles typically have voltages up to 14.4V and even 15V-16V - I wouldn't worry about that. They should tolerate the higher voltage. [ If not, a resistor can be added to each string/pod. Each pod will be a series string of 4 LEDs with a resistor - probably (12V-4x2V = 4V/26mA = 153 => ) a 150 Ohm resistor. ]


The only other thing - fusing.
The fuse will not protect the LEDs, it is merely to protect the wiring in case it short etc.
You need 130mA so assume 150mA or bigger wire. Probably 1A.
The fuse needs to be less than (or equal to) the wire capacity (so the fuse blows instead of the wire melting and flaming = fire!). Oh - and the switch capacity. IE - wire and switch etc must handle the 130mA load, but the fuse must blow before the wire or switch melt (hence be smaller etc).

In practice, start with a suitable fuse. They should be run at no more than 70% so 130mA/.7 => 185mA hence a 250mA fuse and >250mA wiring etc.
But since a blade fuse may be more suitable (than glass etc 250mA fuses), maybe a 5A or 7.5A blade fuse (ATS? ATC?) and thence 5A or 7.5A (or 10A or 10A) wiring etc.

Of course, if powered off an existing fused circuit, just use a wire gauge bigger than that fuse's rating.
The LEDs' extra 130mA should have little effect on that fused-circuit's loading.


Sorry for the blab, but hopefully I've demystified the situation. (And probably totally confused you in the process LOL! But I did cover dimmer crap. Re-read a few times; ignore the irrelevant, and absorb a bit at a time.)

UPDATED: I tried the dimmers below.
They certainly appear to be PWM based on:
- use of a 2SK2866 switching MOSFET (10A)
- no significant FET heating for a 50W halogen load at any brightness
- similar dimming linearity of a parallel 12V LED

It won't dim fully, but that will be a lower limit as set by a resistor.

I don't think I'll bother to decipher the circuit - except to vary the lower limiting resistor - since my old 555 circuit should work just as well. (Oops - I forgot to measure the standby current of the Excel circuit in case it is significantly lower than the 10mA of a 555 timer.)
And I'm certain the lot could be substituted with the 555 circuit - just retain the 10k pot and the FET.


Hence a simple "off the wreck" LED etc dimmer.
I have little doubt that other Japanese vehicles went to PWM dimming years ago. [ You can usually feel it by the smooth "non-wirewound" dimmer pot and the small unit size (ie, no significant heat sinking required). ]

   

Below is my original post:

FYI - I pulled dimmers from 1995 & 1996 Hyundai Excels today.
They appear to be PWM dimmers, though I'm basing that on its minimally heatsinked TO-220 transistor or FET.
But it has an 8-pin dual-Op-Amp chip, so analog dimming is a possibility - if it were a 555 chip, it would need at least 10 less components than it does have.