led blinker

I have a 1980 Fiat spider and I decided to put 2 led blinkers on the front. There are 2 wires coming out of the light - and + the positive has 2 wires into one and has a big 330ohm resistor. So the minimums are wired at the front of the resistor basically to bypass it and the blinker has a wire at the top of the resistor. I also have a EL13 led relay made by Tridon.

My problem is when i have the minimums on and try to use the blinker it is very hard to see the blinker blink. While the minimums are off it works without a hitch. Is there anyway to kill the circuit so that it basically makes the light go completely out or would I have to use a bigger resistor to reduce the power??

Yep - bigger, else cut off the minimums when blinking - see side marker wiring.

I read the post but it confused me a bit. The relay I have in the car should be set up already for the application("SPDT relay")type?

Maybe I misunderstood but didn't I need a bigger resistor? You wrote "Noting that the 10k resistor is not needed (I don't know why it is there unless it's for damping?). " Which would leave me with a 10,000uF Capacitor?

According to what the specs are for the resistor its a 2watt 330ohm resistor so, when you said yep bigger do you mean up the amps or up the resistor in ohms?

I was assuming the resistor was in series with the "12V LEDs" to provide dimming and the flasher can bypassed that resistor.
Hence increasing the resistor size (ie, decreasing the LED current) will dim the LEDs when not being flashed.



The resistor in the "RC relay delay" diagram is for the timing delay (the time the relay holds off between flasher can pulses) and has nothing to do with dimming.

Not that the other relay circuit was intended for a LED flasher - driving a cap & relay direct might prove too much for the can - however most LED flashers are simply a timer driving a relay and should be ok (as opposed to older thermo-electric can or timer-relay cans but with current sensing based on tungsten bulbs).

Well the resistor is outside of the housing on the + wire there are however 3 other smaller resistors on the bulb housing board. I believe those are 240ohms each and I believe those are 1/8watt. I would upload an image but i think because of my rank I cannot.

Not exactly this but similar https://www./itm/Amber-2-5-Round-4-LED-Mini-Custom-Flasher-Park-Turn-Signal-Light-Kits-/400287491604?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5d32fe6614 the white wire is ground then you have a + thats splits parking lights and blinker and that bulge in the middle is resistor that I am talking about.

Being amber they could be white LEDs @ ~3.6V each else orange @ ~2.2V each.

I suspect ~orange LEDs, 4 in series = ~9V @ 20mA.

Hence a series resistor of (~14.5-9)V/20mA = 5.5/0.02 = 270R (R = Ohms) or rating IIR = .0004 x 270 = 0.1W.

So they might be using two 240R resistors in series where the "clearance" feeds thru both, and the flasher bypasses one 240R.
I have no idea what the 2W 330R is for...


But that light is a 2-wire input - ie, clearance and indicator.
The circuits I/we discussed were for a single lamp to be used for both.
With the 2-wire, you would just feed each signal to the respective wire...

Its 9 orange LED's and the 3 240 ohm resistors.

"2W 330R" I belive there using this to limit the current when it needs to blink.

"With the 2-wire, you would just feed each signal to the respective wire"

Yes it is a 2 wire but + has two feeds and by connecting the way they ask it will work where when the parking lights are on the 9 leds light up and when you turn the blinker they do "blink" meaning the 9 leds never go off just seems to dim the light a little using the 330 ohms resistor creating that faint blink.

I also wired my fender parking lights to blink, so that someone can see that I am trying to make a right or left. The fender light is a normal bulb so I piggy back the parking/blinker led light to give a + power to the - pole on the bulb making 2 positive signals go into the bulb and turning the bulb completely off and on creating the blinking affect. I have disconnected this and the led works the same way so seems to not affect the led in any way.

-Could I in some way do the same with the LED where as it will make the LED completely go off instead of dim the light? I was planning on just wiring the + blinker wire to the ground off the led to see if it shuts the light off but I would presume that LED's do not like reversed polarity.

Could I put a diode on the Negative wire and run it this way?

The LEDs don't mind reverse polarity, but your can won't like being shorted to GND.

AFAIK, the only way with "full off between flashes" is is to convert the system as I've described - an SPDT relay with delayed off per "bulb/LED group" - ie, per side.