webelectric drl

Ok my father bought one of these kits. It's not on the car yet, because we have been bench testing it. As of right now it doesn't do exactly what he wants, and wants to know if it is possible for it to do it. Right now when it's connected via the included diagram, the high filament(turn signal) comes on anytime the car is running and when the turn signal comes on it breaks voltage to the turn signal to make it flash. What my father wants to do is, during the day whenever the car is turned on he wants the low filament to come on. The reason for this, is he has Amber-White Switchback LEDs. So during the day he wants the white running lights to come as the DRL, but when he signals, he wants the Amber to come on to keep the car legal. I've included the diagram included in the kit so someone if possible can tell us how to wire it to accomplish this task. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.


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2013 Chevy Impala LTZ

This will be done on a 2011 Chevy Impala.

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2013 Chevy Impala LTZ

Forgot to add he also wants to keep the parking lamps white at night.

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2013 Chevy Impala LTZ

Quick splices and wire nuts? Is this thing designed for a car?

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Kevin Pierson

I'm working on my father's 2011 impala again. On his car the marker lights on the front don't flash to give people on the side of him notice of his intent to change lanes and such. Now we changed the wiring to allow that to happen. We used the diagram on daniel stern's lighting page. He bought a pair of switchback leds for the front turn signals. However, when they are introduced to the car they function as normal, but now the side markers will not come on. With standard incandescent bulbs they work. What can be causing them to not work?

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2013 Chevy Impala LTZ

LED's can not flow both ways, which the wiring mod you preformed requires hence it works with the regular bulbs and not the LED's.

is there a work around to get this working? I'm not positive but I think on my 98 astro when i had switch backs on it, it worked, I think.

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2013 Chevy Impala LTZ

daytonboi wrote:

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is there a work around to get this working? I'm not positive but I think on my 98 astro when i had switch backs on it, it worked, I think.

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Have never wired with the switchback LED's and Side marker LED's, but the flow through the side marker LED's needs to flow one way only for them to work.

You would need to apply the relay method to switch the power to the led off with the blinker light feed, which will cause the sidemarker and front blinker to alternate oppisite of each other. Or use the module they suggest to accomplish what you want.

Also you will probally need to undo the mod you did for the sidemsrker to have a constant ground for the relay too work.

Or you could put the LED(s) in a bridge rectifier - ie, the LED's + & - to the bridge + & - output with the "~" AC inputs to the +ve & -ve source output.

The LEDs will experience a ~1.2V drop (or ~.6V if Schottky diodes are used), but that is unlikely to have much effect.

Or upon further research if you used the 194 switch back bulbs for the side marker they would be WHITE/ amber with the mod you have already done as the polarity changes. What effect it will have will depend on wether the side marker lenses are amber or clear.

I've got a diagram, but i want to see if it is electrically sound. What we are trying to accomplish is this. He wants he wants the front parking lights on during the day. When he turns on the turn signals he wants the parking lights to go off when the turn signals come on, alternating.


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2013 Chevy Impala LTZ

Here is a larger version

https://tinypic.com/r/sgo38p/6

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2013 Chevy Impala LTZ

thanks for the help with this. Now we've moved to this DRL problem. I'm starting another thread to work on that one.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~133203~get~last#670748

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2013 Chevy Impala LTZ

That will flash but out of phase with the front & rear bulbs.

I have a preference for dioding the relay coil rather than dioding the loads (co-located diodes, less current, and full voltage to the load/lamp)
Hence I'd move the park switch connection & diode to the SPDT relay coil and (therefore) also insert a diode from EACH flasher feed to the coil (remember, the flasher can is before the L-R selector switch; it's the same as sampling the flasher bulb - NOT sampling the flasher can itself).
Hence 4 diodes which can be any 1N400x type (eg, 1N4004 etc), and 2x SPDT relays (one for each side with the dioded park switch feed to both coils).
That overcomes the need for a diode rating to handle the Lmp low current, though if they are the typical 3W bulbs etc (or LEDs), that's only ~250mA and well under the 1N400x 1A rating so your 2x single diode method could be used.   

It's a pity the Low Lmps are hard grounded. If they had a wired ground, the relays would not be necessary for this type of "out of phase" flashing.