rotary headlight switch wanted

I'm looking for a rotary-style headlight switch for my street rod project, but can't seem to find one. I want a switch for interior/dome light, parking/tail, and headlights. I want to turn the switch counterclockwise for the dome lights, and then have two positions clockwise for the parking/tail and headlights. So, it would be an on-off-on-on switch.
I looked through the Cole-Hersee catalog and also the Indak switch catalog and can't find one that will do the job.

Any recommendations on where I can find a such a switch style?

This doesn't have to be a high amperage switch, since I'll have relays to take the high-current loads.

Thanks,
Steve

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Any 4 position rotary switch. Single pole if you add diodes, dual pole if not.

Use relays for the parkers and headlights.
The dome probably won't need a relay depending on the lamp load and switch rating though I'd probably use one (so lamp loads or faults don't burn out the switch leaving you headlightless.

it would kind suck to have to turn the exterior lights off to turn the interior light on. not very handy goin down the road at night. LOL

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yuk
quiet rural missouri, near KC.
If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

Short of an OEM headlamp switch that has 2 pull out positions as well as the rotary, to dim the dashlamps and then when rotated fully it would turn on the overhead, I can not think of any rotary switch that will work for you.

Hence my attempted suggestion of a typical rotary switch, but that certainly won't drive headlights and probably not parkers - hence it needs relays.

And tho I agree that the interior lights should be on an independent circuit (unless position #5 is headlights & interior), diodes can be used for the position #3 headlights and parkers, else a dual-pole rotary used.

However thought should be given to whether each position is to constant 12V, or ACC or IGN +12V.

I can't think of any kind of rotary switch that will do what he needs.  At least being able to turn domelight on without having to turn headlamps off. 

Agreed, but steve392 describes EITHER interior else parkers or headlights (or off). Hence itsyuk's it sucks comment (which I agree with - the interior lighting should be independent for various reasons).

Okay...Been reading your responses...I understand about not being able to turn dome/interior lighting without turning off the other light circuits. So, let's take the dome/interior circuit out and put that on a separate circuit.
Now, if I'm using a SP3T switch (such as Cole-Hersee #72171-01, or SPDT #72151-01) and I have the park/tail/instrument lights on in position 1, and the headlights on in position 2, then I would only need one diode between the position 1 and position 2 terminals with cathode side connected to position 1? This would keep the position 1 park/tail/instrument circuit from back-feeding the position 2 headlight circuit, yet enable position 2 to still energize the park/tail/interior lights?

I'm using a Painless Wiring harness that provides unswitched (constant) +12v from the fuse block.

I hope this explanation is clear, I'm not an electronics guy as you can tell....
Thanks
Steve

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So you are not using relays?

I'd suggest relays so that you can then use smaller switches, less & smaller wiring in the cabin else to the dash etc, and diodes that do not have to carry the full light current and add voltage drops (probably of ~1V).

I will be using relays, I just didn't mention them in my post. I will use relays for park, tail, and headlight circuits. The rotary switch will just control coil circuits (terminals 86 & 85) of each individual relay.
So....Will one of the switches mentioned above work okay? I picked them because of their relatively small size. Will one switch be better than the other or is there some other brand I should look at? How about the diode setup? Any recommendation on specific diode?
Thanks....



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The terminals need only control 86; the 85s are all to GND (assuming +12V switching).


Your diode connection is fine. Since you are only driving relays (coils usually a max of 250mA), any 1N400x diode will do (1A rating) - I suggest the common 1N4004 (or 4007) as these can be used to quench coil spikes (not that you need that, but for the future...).


Switch wise, I was thinking more of common rotaries. Google-images "rotary switches" for typical types - eg, as per Jaycar's rotary switches (~$4) or led-switch-Rotary Switch (~$1.15) though those sealed Jaycars only handle 150mA whereas the other led-switch unsealed units handle 0.5A typical.
But they are solder types which can be inconvenient in vehicles - especially if it needs changing or replacing. (I'll usually used intermediate connectors and prepare a spare plug-in replacement for critical circuits).

Keep in mind that terminal that handles parkers and beams drives TWO relays.

If happy with your suggestion, get that since they seem to handle 10A or 20A - more than enough to drive several relays.


I suggest a self-resetting circuit breaker for the main beams (~$10 for up to 50A capacity with stud terminals, or 30A capacity for ATS (blade) fuse types).


Ah - the problem of greefields wiring - so many options (and hence often confusion and "mission impossibles" for novices, and me too! But the advantage is... so many options.

oldspark,

Thanks for the guidance, it's much appreciated. I think I'm on the right track now....
Steve

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You beat me....
I was thinking of striking out my switch alternatives. My dislikes for them are the low switching capability of the sealed units (and plastic shaft, and maybe lack of "feel" - ie lightly sprung), and the unsealed nature of the "open wafer" types, but that depends on its environment (dirt, moisture) and chances of being touched by other conductors.
And then there's the need to get a suitable knob, though that choice may be an advantage.


Vehicle wiring can be a dilemma. Keep it simple using heavier switches, or use relays etc?
Relay-less means larger voltage drops and heavier wiring (to the dash etc). And high current diodes and their voltage drop when using those "combination" tricks (such as beams powering parkers).
Relays mean more wiring but much lighter wiring in the cabin. And relays are easier to replace than switches (assuming better location, and sockets or terminals (soldering direct to relay terminals is risky).
Relays also mean a much larger selection of switches (or even electronic control).

FYI - I often write how I don't like even big (automotive) switches to carry more than a few Amps. F.ex, I've seen 16A switches fail (melt!) within months powering a mere and occasional 8A fan. My floor dip switch failed after 23 years. (That's a bit of a jest, though its melting nature under my bare foot was not much of a joke.)

hi,
check out NKK switches...TS and HS16 series.
used a HS16 in a 3 pole 3 position configuration to replace a not available at the time wiper switch on a 60's chrysler product...in custom dash.
mark

Thanks to all who answered this post. I've one follow-up question regarding the headlight circuit. As mentioned earlier, I have a Painless Wiring harness that has a 30 amp ATO fuse in the fuse block, direct +12v un-switched, that is to be used for the headlight circuit only.
Mention was made that I should include a self-resetting type circuit breaker in the circuit. Is this in addition to the 30 amp fuse, or just use one or the other? I would think that if I used both in series the fuse would blow before the breaker would trip.
A clarification would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve

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Yes,
You could use a self resetting circuit breaker in the fuse panel for the headlight circuit, for the headlight relay power feed.
The Painless kit includes a fused circuit for the parking/tail lights?
I would use that circuit for your feed for your headlight switch (power to the relay coils as well as the lights themselves)
mark

You never have series protection for vehicle distribution (excluding downstream path splitting and the last equipment protection fuse).

The main reason for self resetters is safety in critical circuits.
EG - a temporary short may blow your headlight fuse(s) permanently. A self resetting CB will reset & re-light - maybe before you hit the wall or run off the road.


FYI - the breaker may trip before the fuse, but the fuse will have taken a thermal hit which compromises its life.

Yes, the Painless Harness has a separate 20 amp fused circuit for the inst. panel/tail light circuit. I will use that to supply power to the headlight switch before going to each individual relay.
I also found an ATO style 30 amp circuit breaker that I can plug into the fuse panel, replacing the fuse, for the headlight circuit.
Thanks again,
Steve

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