Print Page | Close Window

Eliminating Sequential Tail Lights without Bulb-Out Error

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Lights, Neon, LEDs, HIDs
Forum Discription: Under Car Lighting, Strobe Lights, Fog Lights, Headlights, HIDs, DRL, Tail Lights, Brake Lights, Dashboard Lights, WigWag, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=145400
Printed Date: April 23, 2024 at 7:53 AM


Topic: Eliminating Sequential Tail Lights without Bulb-Out Error

Posted By: gatriel
Subject: Eliminating Sequential Tail Lights without Bulb-Out Error
Date Posted: May 06, 2019 at 6:30 AM

Hey all,

I am importing a 2012 Ford Mustang to Germany. The car in the US has sequential turn signals which share bulbs with the brake lights (e.g., red).

In Germany turn signals MUST be orange. Reorganizing the bulb layout isn't a problem however ridding myself of the sequential turn signs and not getting a bulb-out warning is problematic.

The best way I've come up with eliminating this sequential tail lights is to use a trailer wiring harness designed for the car, and then use the harness' output for the tail lights as opposed to a trailer.

The issue when I do this is I would have to cut the connection between the bulb and a Body Control Module, resulting in a hyper-flash bulb-out warning. I can of course rid myself of the bulb-out warning with resistors, but the problem here is 1) The bulb-out-warning is actually pretty handy; 2) Resistors get really hot when in use and I'd prefer to not have to deal with the heat; and 3) My experience with these $10 eBay resistors is they fail pretty regularly. I'd like to do this once and forget it.

I came up with this:

posted_image

My only concern is two fold:

1) Any particular diode I should use? This is a standard 12v application, so I figured a regular run-of-the-mill diode kit off Amazon should suffice. Thoughts?

2) Anyone have experience feeding 12v to the BCM backwards? If you look at the drawing, this would allow the BCM to read the bulb's resistance and the BOW *should* work properly, however there will be times the BCM is feeding 12v to the bulb and the bulb won't illuminate and vice versa. Anyone think this will cause issues?

Normally I'd just give this a shot and see what happens, and I might do exactly this on my donor car when it arrives, but I'd like some professional opinions first.

Thanks in advance!



Replies:

Posted By: gatriel
Date Posted: May 06, 2019 at 6:50 AM
EDIT:

Another thing I am considering is simply using resistors with say, 25 Ohms as opposed to the 6 that come from Amazon.

If my math is correct each resistor would output 9 watts of electricity at 15v (charging voltage for the car is 14.8 so...)

If I were to purchase 100watt 12 Ohm resistors, with constant 12v input that is 18 watt output, I could still use these resistors and eliminate this issue all-together.

That should cool things down materially. Thoughts?




Posted By: eguru
Date Posted: May 10, 2019 at 5:48 AM
I would go with the resistor solution. Power dissipation won't be as high as you have calculated because the duty cycle of turn signals is less than 55%.





Print Page | Close Window