amp for four 12 alpine type r 4 ohm dvc?

Right now i have some decent amps running my alpines. They were purchased locally and known around where i live for being decent quality. but i've heard stories that they arent so decent after all, and my alpines are not playing at their full potential. Im looking for a nice amp (or amps) to run my alpine, a friend of mine pointed me toward quantum audio ( https://www.quantumaudio.net/cozmikamp.htm ) but i never heard of them. I've been looking at Hifonics but they arent CEA compliant, so i was looking over at JBL and MTX. any insight?

So what kind of amps are these not so decent amps?
How are these amps set up?
How many channels?
How many watts max?
How many watts rms?
What ohm are they stabel at?
What type of enclosure do u have them in?
I think maybe you left out a little information.maybe its just the way they are set up

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WELL?

big sexy lac wrote:

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So what kind of amps are these not so decent amps?
How are these amps set up?
How many channels?
How many watts max?
How many watts rms?
What ohm are they stabel at?
What type of enclosure do u have them in?
I think maybe you left out a little information.maybe its just the way they are set up

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Each two type-r's are running to each amp, they run at 4 ohms pushing a little over 1000W bridged to each two speakers. Trust me they play real good, pound REAL hard, but its just my friend had a bad experience with the company, gravity, and im starting to have the same. he said the amps demand too much power and they start to mess up my electrical system, draining my battery and messing up my alternator, which they are. he said he kilt two of his batteries with this amp, and I even got a yellow top optima and a 3 farad cap in the back! so i just want some new amps.

Seriously why won't you just tell us what amps you have?

We can't help you without knowing where your are now.

I highly doubt the amps are pushing 1000 watts to each sub. I know a Type R can handle it but I highly doubt your amp is capable of putting out 1000 watts.

1000 REAL watts is PLENTY for a single Type R...

What enclosure do you have now??

aznboi3644 wrote:

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I highly doubt the amps are pushing 1000 watts to each sub. ?

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so do I, especially since he said 1000w for each PAIR.

akickz - if your amps are an honest 1000w rms I'm not sure how much you'd have to gain simply by changing amps.

even if your car's voltage is dropping quite a bit - say down to 12v, a decent amp should still produce something NEAR rated power.

It wouldn't hurt to look into a class D (assuming yours isn't) that's around 2000w at 2 ohms.  The massive audio p3000.1 looks interesting.  Supposedly over 80% efficient and capable of 2700w at 2 ohms.  You could set the gain conservatively and that amp shouldn't even break a sweat.

Another option, as the other posters mentioned is to look into a different enclosure.  If your box is sealed a custom ported encl can make a BIG difference.

ahh I didn't see the per pair part.


If you want to upgrade and amp I'd look into a new HO Alt

i told you the amp is produced by gravity. and my car is a 1999 buick park avenue supercharged, i was told they come with HO alt's because everything in the car is electric, heated seats, electric seats, other crap too. but my car used to run constantly at 13.4v , and drop in the 12v when a big bass would hit. but now my bass is dropping into low 11v's high 10v's after a few months on my setup, my batt isnt recharging i think the amps are suckin too much power. my friend says the amps demand too much power so im looking at a kicker kx2500.1 . just wanted other peoples opinions

if your just looking for opinions ......... the alpine PDX1.1000 pushes those subs nicely .  you need to run at least 2AWG to each amp though kuz they can draw 100a  per amplifier.  plus if you want to run more amps, the whole PDX line has the same footprint demensions ..... AND IT'S SMALL ... designed to stack multiple units..... good looking amp.    makes the install possabilities almost endless.  kinda pricey though.

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brad

yah see price is a issue. those amps run for $400-$500 each. where i can get the kicker for $500. but right now i have a 4 awg running from my battery to my optima in the back, i was thinking about running a 0/1 or 2 awg? maybe that would help with the power? and run the 4 awg in the back 2 the amps from the cap?

u might look at the mtx 1501d it pushes 1500 at 1 ohm which u would probably want to do two of them they draw about 150 amps of current a piece which would put u at 300 amps which is alot of current  but most big amps draw alot of power but they are good and easy to find.

i was looking at that amp as well but i want to run my alpines all on one amp. the kicker kx2500.1 will push 625 watts to each type-r, and that's most likely at 14.4V, which my car doesnt run at. i've heard the alpine type-r can take a little extra juice, up to 750W rms. if you figure, half of the max watts is 750W, max is 1500W, so it makes sense.

yeh the 2500.1 is a great amp and if u want to do one amp is prob the way to go u can find them at decent prices if u do some searching i have had great luck with both mtx and kicker.

If you get a 2500.1 you WILL NEED a new alternator AND 0 gauge wiring all around.

yah my friend works at circuit city he told me $250 for the kx2500.1 . and is 0 guage wiring a MUST? because i run 4 guage with the two 2200W amps i currently have, i also have a yellow top altima and a 3.0 farad cap. i was thinking about running 0 or 1 guage from the battery up front to my rear battery, and from there all 4 guage to the amps, etc.

im sorry, yellow top OPTIMA not altima.

you are deff going to want to change it to 0 awg just for the fact that is a lot of current draw i would try to do 0 awg even from your second battery into the amp. Just think of it as breathing through a straw the smaller the straw the harder to breath the bigger the straw the easier to breath now apply that to your power wire.

If you're having all kinds of electrical problems from your current amps, sure its the amps fault, but its also the cars fault for not being able to keep up with the added load. As posted before, you NEED to get a higher output alternator. The one that came on the car maybe an HO unit, but its there for a reason and you said it yourself...everything in the car is electrical. Now you're trying to add in another 200A worth of current draw and its obviously taking its toll.

Bottom line...

1) Get rid of the capacitor, 4AWG wiring, stock alternator

2) Replace with new HO alt, AT LEAST 0AWG, and possibly even another battery.

p.s. make sure you address the Big 3 as well as all the grounds for your amps.

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I'd rather be in the boat with a drink on the rocks, than in the drink with a boat on the rocks!

A HO alt isnt available for my car, i've looked everywhere. but I will run 0AWG wire from the battery to the trunk, and buy a brand new alternator. and my pos/neg wires for my battery are already pretty thick. i think they are 4awg or 2awg. but i have a question, why get rid of the capacitor?

A capacitor only adds to your failing alternator problem. As has been said time and time again on this forum, the alternator is the absolute root of all electrical in a car. It supplies the power, a battery and a cap only store it. Caps are basically band-aids for a cut on a major artery. As far as the new HO alternator, since they dont make one for your car, you might have to fabricate a bracket to make one that is close to the same size fit. With enough time and ingenuity, anything can be done.  

Also, your ground wire NEEDS to be the same size as your main power cable. Not a lot of people realize that (correct me if I'm wrong DYohn) the same amount of current runs through the ground as does the positive cable. That is most likely one of the reasons for your problem.

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I'd rather be in the boat with a drink on the rocks, than in the drink with a boat on the rocks!

I do know of a local altenator shop I will go and see wut they can do. but i really use the cap to to see how many volts is running through my system in the back. do you suggest i take it out and get a digital voltage reader? the way i have my system hooked up is, 4awg wire running from my main battery to a 250A fuse then to my yellow top in the back. from there i run a wire to my cap and from my cap I run my wires to my amps. all my wires are 4awg as well as my ground wires and are all grounded properly. i was thinking do i need a larger fuse? I was told i needed a 300A.

250a fuse on a 4g wire?! 4g wire can handle UP TO 150amps, you'll NEED to use a 150a or smaller fuse on the power wire -no further than 18" from the battery. This is a HUGE fire-hazard! Replace that fuse ASAP.

Your power/ground (should ALWAYS be the same size) wires should always be larger, if you can fit them. Use this guide to determine what size power/ground wiring you'll need based on current draw (all fuses added together) and lenth of power wire. Again, ground wire should be the same size;

https://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

Your car has a 125a alt from the factory, BTW.

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2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001