Printer Friendly Forum Posts - powering 2 alpine type rs4 ohm dvc

ive got 2 of those, in a ported box, and im selling my old amp cuz i dont like it... lol

ive had my eye on the MA-hk1998, 600x1 at 2 ohms, would that work for both or should i buy one amp for each sub?

otherwise any recommendations for an amp, under $250, to power my type-rs would be cool,otherwise its the hk1998 from ebay that ima get, and im thinking about getting 2

also this setups going in my new car, 97 vw golf, getting it for $1200 and its got 80,000 miles, buying it from a rich friend who doesnt want it anymore, only thing wrong is rear struts need to be replaced(good deal?)

the hk1998 does not match up well at all with a pair of 500w dvc 4's.

It would be helpful to know what amp you had, how it was wired - so we can get an idea of what about it might have given you worse performance than you'd like.

the enclosure can have a big impact as well.

im selling the amp with my car, it was a sony 1600 watt amp, i believe (https://www.epinions.com/pr-Sony_XM-DS1600P5_1000W_x_1_Car_Amp_Mono_Subwoofer_Amps_Car_Audio_Amplifier/skp_~1/search_string_~sony%2520xm-ds1600)
link to amp the sony xm-ds1600p5,

but otherwise what can someone recommend for me to power my 2 type-rs, id like to stay decently cheap, ive got money to spend but need to save

my old setup is gone cuz the kid wants part of it and im keeping the type-rs, i need a new amp and im trying to get ideas of what to find to power them, as long as they get the power they need im happy

what about the https://cgi./DB-DRIVE-1000-WATT-RMS-1-OHM-MONO-CAR-AMPLIFIER-AMP_W0QQitemZ280193032482QQihZ018QQcategoryZ64570QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
db drive 1000x1 at-ohm, that would power both the type-rs at 1-ohm, but would the amp be stable at that one ohm or is the company just boasting?

that db drive is overrated a bit.

how much money do you want to spend??

well, after im done with bills/buying my new car, ill have $300 to spend easily

that db's not half bad - so maybe it's only 800w or so. The diff between 800 and 1000 is going to be insignificant at the most, and the price is right.

it's 1 ohm stable - it's not uncommon in a sub amp these days.

Other possibilities in the price range.

Lanzar Opti1400d

Hifonics bxi1206d

out of them all i like the hifonics the most, my buddy had a 1600 watt rms brutus powering a rockford fosgate t2 and yeah... it was loud, but he fried the amp when he crashed cuz it wasnt mounted,

any objections? otherwise the hifonics is about 180 on ebay including shipping... and im liking it lol

also i found a alpine CDA-9856 for $80 from a buddy, works and what not, has ipod cable to, ima get that and the amp and be set with my system... hopefully...

that db drive amp is more like 500-600 watts

o wow... so the hifonics it is then for sure, and its cheaper... wire the type-rs to 1 ohm, and run the amp to them and itll power them pretty good for $180

Hifonics is overrated also...decent amps for the money though

It's going to be very difficult do find a REAL 1000 watts for the money you want to spend.

Every amp you have mentioned so far is mediocre at best, and ALL are pretty significantly overrated. Look into JL. You're going to spend a little more, but you're going to GET a lot more.

Also, you might consider re-reading the forum rules. Apparently you missed the part about eBay links, and how you're not supposed to post them (the servers edit them out anyway...).

-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

aznboi3644 wrote:

that db drive amp is more like 500-600 watts

really? have you seen a test done on it?

haemphyst wrote:

It's going to be very difficult do find a REAL 1000 watts for the money you want to spend.

Every amp you have mentioned so far is mediocre at best, and ALL are pretty significantly overrated. Look into JL. You're going to spend a little more, but you're going to GET a lot more.

Also, you might consider re-reading the forum rules. Apparently you missed the part about eBay links, and how you're not supposed to post them (the servers edit them out anyway...).

posted_image

the HF and Lanzar are both a "REAL" 1000w. They're just not as high quality of the higher priced amps. The Lanzar is accurately rated. The HF may be over-rated, but the audible difference between 1200 and 1000 is, again, minor at the most. To say it's "significantly" over-rated is not accurate IMO.

Yes a JL would be a better amp, but not everybody is in that price range.

sry bout that, meant to use the link as info not a selling thing...

i dont have the money to spare for the jl, ive already thought of it, but i need the money till i ship off to boot camp, which is in 6 months, and yeah

so out of the 3 which would be the best? im leaning towards the hifonics for price, and because my friend had one

otherwise its the lanzar, but either way im not looking for a pure 1000rms, just enough to give my type-rs decent power

if the db drive amp you are talking about is the spa1000.1 it is fused at 60 amps.

being class ab I don't see it putting out 1000 watts

ok... i also was wondering, with the wiring for 2 12 4-ohm dvc subs, would i be able to wire each sub to 2-ohms, and then connect them to the amp and would that run at 1-ohm? i dont see why it wouldnt really

both subs would reach the amp, just one wouldnt run through the other sub, im not positive it would be 1-ohm though, i just dont want to run a wire from 1 sub to the other in a ported box...

alrighty, it seems confusing up above, so to simplify, instead of running one sub through the other(isnt each sub wired to 2-ohms, but when connected to the amp it becomes a 1-ohm load?)

im going to connect both subs to the amp, but not wire one through the other, rather have the wires meet at the amp, i dont see why it wouldnt work the same

yes if you wired it the way you said the final load would be 1 ohm

alrighty, edited this post alot, but im getting new rear struts/front locks because those are all shot lol... locks im not sure how they got that bad but they are, drivers side doesnt work and passenger side doesnt even unlock...

but ive found the amp im getting for $110 about. its a infinity reference 1211a amp, 854 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (1300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms)

im not sure how to make it work w/the type-rs though... since it does 1300x1 rms at 2-ohms, i cant wire my subs to 2-ohms though, 4/1 ohms yes, but well what should i do, wire them to 1 ohm and just not have the amp turned up all the way? or will the amp become unstable and fry?

I personally have two 12" type r's, and i am powering them with a very nice alpine amp, an MRD-M1005. I got it off amazon for like $350.00. It pushes out 1000 rms. My r's are dual 4 ohms. I would greatly recommend this amp. I have had no porblem with it at all, and I dont even have it turned up halfway and the r's hurt the ears after a few minutes.

-------------
Disturbin' Tha Peace

yeah, i didnt have that kind of money, barely had $200, may actually have spent money i needed, but i bought a hifonics brutus 1606d for $179 off ebay, it puts out 1600x1 at 1-ohm, and its 2/3 of the way turned up and powering the type-rs perfect, may get pics of my setup, but not until its warmer and i can clean my interior

previous owner of the golf worked at a family business of construction, so theres dust in places i didnt know exist

rboutin2 wrote:

I personally have two 12" type r's, and i am powering them with a very nice alpine amp, an MRD-M1005. I got it off amazon for like $350.00. It pushes out 1000 rms. My r's are dual 4 ohms. I would greatly recommend this amp. I have had no porblem with it at all, and I dont even have it turned up halfway and the r's hurt the ears after a few minutes.

how far the gain is turned up has no relevance to how much power it is putting out.

An amp could put out full power with the gain all the way down...it just depends on the input voltage.

aznboi3644 wrote:

how far the gain is turned up has no relevance to how much power it is putting out.

An amp could put out full power with the gain all the way down...it just depends on the input voltage.

The first scentence is false. I'm pretty sure we both know that.

The 2nd scentence - theoretically, yes, but the amp in question has a sensitivity range of 0.1v to 8v, so unless the HU is a very rare, high end 8v unit the amp would not approach rated power with the sensitivity at 8v.

My point is just that the gain is absolutely relevant in the power the amp produces, and critical in keeping clipping to a minimum which will help contribute to long speaker life.

ive got the lvl on the amp set to about 2 volts or so.the eq is 1/2 way up, and i leave the bass knob at about 2/3. im still adjusting the subsonic/low pass filters, i believe their getting around 1000watts, or more/less, their loud enough to make my ears hurt and mirrors useless, and im worried about the rear window their next to

It may be false to you...have you ever heard of a line driver??

rboutin2 wrote:

I have had no porblem with it at all, and I dont even have it turned up halfway and the r's hurt the ears after a few minutes.

I wish I had that problem. What kinda vehicle is this system in?

-------------
"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview

aznboi3644 wrote:

It may be false to you...have you ever heard of a line driver??

uh, yeah.

but I don't know why you would bring something into the discussion that had nothing to do with the topic...oh wait, yes I do - because you were wrong and that's the best thing you can come up with in an effort to support your assertion.

why do so many ppl think the gain knob is a volume control the gain knob should be adjusted to the volts your head unit puts out. end of story

sedate wrote:

rboutin2 wrote:

I have had no porblem with it at all, and I dont even have it turned up halfway and the r's hurt the ears after a few minutes.

I wish I had that problem. What kinda vehicle is this system in?

system is in a 97 vw golf trek, so its all open air, no trunk or nothing, plus their in a ported box facing upwards, looks wicked, subs are perfectly level with my back seat

noobgalore wrote:

why do so many ppl think the gain knob is a volume control the gain knob should be adjusted to the volts your head unit puts out. end of story

my deck has a 2-volt preamp voltage, and the amps level is set to 2 volts, low-pass is around 80hz, subsonic is 25ish, bass eq is 1/2 about, i leave the remote bass knob around 2/3
i believe its all set right, sounds clean and extremely nice

i need crossovers for my 6.5"s though, they get unbearably distorted at highervolumes

sedate wrote:

rboutin2 wrote:

I have had no porblem with it at all, and I dont even have it turned up halfway and the r's hurt the ears after a few minutes.

I wish I had that problem. What kinda vehicle is this system in?

A 1992 Chevy Cavalier check it out on cardomain sometime. The name of the page is way too loud, but only cuz i used to have two 15" treo's in the trunk.

-------------
Disturbin' Tha Peace

ha, thought the question was directed at me, meh

can anyone recommend a crossover, i found a pair on ebay for $13 ish, seem like a cheap brand though, but my 6.5's get distrorted from the bass at higher lvls, and alpine doesnt have a built in hi-pass, and if i turn the bass down it affects the subs, but still doesnt sound right, i had these before, but they were ran from a pioneer deck...

should i deal with it, or try to get a crossover? i dont need any bass coming from my 6.5"s, they are PIONEER TS-A1672R 6.5" 3-WAY speakers

make your own with the the linky on the lefty about passive crossovers

o, tight, kool, ty

also, on a WAY worse note

i fried the brutus this last weekend, we've no idea why it fried, but it was playing white girl(young jeezy), and a minute into the song the amp made a loud POP, went into protection, and started smoking

its still under warranty, BUT im still bewildered why it fried... it should have blown the subs before the amp fried, everything was set right, wired right, and well... were clueless, my friend had this happen to his, but from other reviews online this isnt a issue... im confused

amp still lights up, but wreaks of burnt circuitry, and doesnt put out any sound

im sending it back within the week and getting it exchanged

what was your voltage at the amp terminals with the system full tilt

ive no idea, about 14 i think, from what the cap usually stays at

im confused on the the passive crossover

the 6.5"s are all 4-ohm, i understand that i need a 4-ohm capacitor for them then, but ive no idea from that point(the size of capacitor, or how to wire it(i believe in line with the +))

i took a semester of electronics in 11th grade, i understand the concept somewhat, but im confused

Are you going for a first order or second order slope??

aznboi3644 wrote:

Are you going for a first order or second order slope??

thats a part i dont undertsand, im just trying to make my 6.5"s play the highs, they get really distorted from bass, but ive no idea bout 1st/2nd order slopes or anything of that sort

still learning atm

wolf56 wrote:

can anyone recommend a crossover, i found a pair on ebay for $13 ish, seem like a cheap brand though, but my 6.5's get distrorted from the bass at higher lvls, and alpine doesnt have a built in hi-pass, and if i turn the bass down it affects the subs, but still doesnt sound right, i had these before, but they were ran from a pioneer deck...

should i deal with it, or try to get a crossover? i dont need any bass coming from my 6.5"s, they are PIONEER TS-A1672R 6.5" 3-WAY speakers

Are the 6.5's being run by an amp or straight off the HU?

You can get a decent used 2 ch amp with a built in crossover for $50-$60 shipped - which you really need to have any chance at all of your fronts blending in with the amount of bass you have, but if you're set on HU power and some bass blockers (caps) I'd suggest something around 100hz.

There's a pair of 150's on ebay for $6 shipped.

Or if you want to shop for your own you're looking for something between 300 and 400 microfarads (uF)

The 1st order/2nd order is just a reference to how abrubptly the crossover filters out the unwanted frequencies below the crossover point - in other words - how steep the slope is.

1st order = 6dB/octave, 2nd order 12dB/octave, 3rd order 18, 4th order 24. It really just equates to "control", but if you just want to protect your speakers from bass a cap will work fine.

straight off the headunit, i had the inline caps that u can get from bestbuy, i believe 100hz, but i couldnt tell if the worked and i didnt know what they were or how to wire them in.

im currently broke, and wont have money for almost 7 months when i go into active duty in the navy

finally got my new amp today... sent the other back under a exchange warranty, new ones wired and sounds good

ive a question:
its a mono amp, but has 4 speaker terminals, for wiring 2 subs

does it matter if i wire a type-r to each terminal, or wire them together into 1 terminal?

ive read and cant figure out if it would or not, doesnt seem to sound any different either

Put each sub to each terminal. But it wouldn't matter if you had them hooked to the same one because it is a mono so both terminals are the same channel anyways.

-------------

hmm, i figured that lol, ty for confirming it though

yup, everythings good and what not, i installed those installedge inline crossovers, that u can buy at bestbuy lol, and after i did those, it worked fine, but now the sound cuts out if i turn the deck up high enough, but my sub keeps going, so its a bass line, without vocals... i may have wired something wrong, but each speaker makes normal sound at low volumes, but turn it up enough and it cuts in/out, it does it for ipod/cd/radio, my decks a alpine cda-9856

could wires be touching somewhere,and causing a voltage spike or something?