DVC Subs - stupid and confused
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=10139
Printed Date: September 14, 2025 at 2:41 AM
Topic: DVC Subs - stupid and confused
Posted By: fordnutt
Subject: DVC Subs - stupid and confused
Date Posted: February 26, 2003 at 8:37 PM
new guy here just bought a kenwood 5201 and a set of audiogahn 1215's, the amp says its 250 w but i can t figure out the wiring to make it work, the subs have dvc and im lost on how to wire them so i wont hurt the amp
Replies:
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: February 26, 2003 at 8:39 PM
Wire like this: 
------------- Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: fordnutt
Date Posted: February 26, 2003 at 8:41 PM
do i set the amp on mono
Posted By: fordnutt
Date Posted: February 26, 2003 at 8:43 PM
also the amp says 120 amps bridged, im having trouble figuring out how they got 250 w max???????
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: February 26, 2003 at 8:45 PM
Yes, set to mono. Are those 15 " subs ?? If that is, I really don't think you have enough power from this amp to run those subs ?
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: fordnutt
Date Posted: February 26, 2003 at 8:54 PM
no they are 12's, so do i leave the amp set to stereo, but only use one side?
Posted By: esmith69
Date Posted: February 26, 2003 at 9:08 PM
They got 250 watts max cuz that's the total peak power that the amp can put out during a musical peak. It's not really a meaningful number but many manufacturer's label their amps that way cuz a lot of people don't know the difference and just think the bigger the number the better the amp. The 120 watts RMS bridged is what the amp puts out when you combine the left and the right channel into one output channel, usually to drive a subwoofer (or two in your case). For this amp, you will actually not set the switch to mono. That is only if you have one input signal (just white, as opposed to white and red). Leave the switch on stereo. Set the "filter" switch to "LPF". After you've wired the subs together using Jeff's diagram, you'll end up with one positive and one negative speaker wire to connect to the amp. On this amp you use the positive from the left channel and the negative from the right channel when you are bridging it (it says "Bridged" and has arrows linking these two outputs).
Posted By: fordnutt
Date Posted: February 26, 2003 at 9:21 PM
thanks gentlemen, your lifesavers
Posted By: fordnutt
Date Posted: February 27, 2003 at 6:43 AM
i wired everything like that and tapped into my rear speakers for the amp inputs, it has high level inputs, but when i turn it on it blows the 1.5amp protection fuse, i checked the wiring and am LOST, i have nothing, sound or anything from my subs
Velocity Motors wrote:
Wire like this:
Posted By: esmith69
Date Posted: February 27, 2003 at 9:57 AM
What is the exact model number of your subs?
Posted By: Fred Berge
Date Posted: February 27, 2003 at 10:15 AM
Check your power connections. does the amp turn on when subs aren't hooked up? make sure wires are not shorting out any where. The amp should tell you where + - go for
mono. make sure you follow that.
-------------
crucial
Posted By: esmith69
Date Posted: February 27, 2003 at 6:41 PM
So the amp doesn't work but the rest of the system continues to function? and what model subs are they? BTW it's a 15 amp fuse, not a 1.5 If you're gonna be using the high-level inputs to send the signal to the amp, you wanna make sure that RCAs are not also connected. Never use both sources at the same time. Maybe that's what your problem is? Also, I'm almost positive that you leave the switch on "stereo" as it appears to be an input select switch. It says MONO (L ch) and I took this to mean the input. It's gonna automatically sum the left and right when you bridge the amp anyways. Others may want to verify this, just check out this pic. Even if that part is wrong, which I highly doubt, that still shouldn't be causing it to blow a fuse. You can always try switching over to mono just for the hell of it.
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