upgrading ’98 accord 4 dr all components
Printed From: the12volt.comForum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=101489
Printed Date: September 15, 2025 at 4:03 AM
Topic: upgrading ’98 accord 4 dr all components
Posted By: blackody
Subject: upgrading ’98 accord 4 dr all components
Date Posted: January 23, 2008 at 1:22 PM
Greetings,
I was directed to this site by SK. Been reading a for a few days just to know enough to be dangerous.
Visited a few retailers and almost there to decide what I want, but would like your input....
1998 Accord V6 EX 4 dr. factory 6 sp. CD
Head unit:
Alpine CDA-9886
Front components:
Infinity Reference 6020cs (was my first choice, but not anymore, after listening to the BAs)
Boston Acoustics SX60(most likely be selected)
Power Amp: pls suggest
JL Audio A Series A4300 45 watts RMS x 4 Car Amplifier, or
JL Audio A Series A6450, or
Alpine MRP-F250 and Alpine MRP-M450
Subwoofer: pls suggest
JL Audio PowerWedge CS112RG-W1v2 12" Single 4-ohm Sealed, or
JL Audio CP110G-W1v2 ported
I am quite sure what HU I want (I would like to play my iPhone through my HU)
Quite sure about my front components as well.
Power amp, initially I thought I'd get two Alpines, (one for front components and one for the sub). Decided to ignore the rear for the time being. I was suggested that I should go with the 6 channel JL audio, but lastly I was suggested that the four channel JL audio should be fine although I am skeptical if this amp would have enough power to power the sub as well.
Subwoofer, I am told that sealed would result in tighter bass, hence going with the 12" sealed although after listening to the 10" ported, I kinda liked it too.
Any suggestions would be highly appreciated. Almost there to bite the bullet, just need some expert advice from you guys
Thank you very much
I was directed to this site by SK. Been reading a for a few days just to know enough to be dangerous.
Visited a few retailers and almost there to decide what I want, but would like your input....
1998 Accord V6 EX 4 dr. factory 6 sp. CD
Head unit:
Alpine CDA-9886
Front components:
Infinity Reference 6020cs (was my first choice, but not anymore, after listening to the BAs)
Boston Acoustics SX60(most likely be selected)
Power Amp: pls suggest
JL Audio A Series A4300 45 watts RMS x 4 Car Amplifier, or
JL Audio A Series A6450, or
Alpine MRP-F250 and Alpine MRP-M450
Subwoofer: pls suggest
JL Audio PowerWedge CS112RG-W1v2 12" Single 4-ohm Sealed, or
JL Audio CP110G-W1v2 ported
I am quite sure what HU I want (I would like to play my iPhone through my HU)
Quite sure about my front components as well.
Power amp, initially I thought I'd get two Alpines, (one for front components and one for the sub). Decided to ignore the rear for the time being. I was suggested that I should go with the 6 channel JL audio, but lastly I was suggested that the four channel JL audio should be fine although I am skeptical if this amp would have enough power to power the sub as well.
Subwoofer, I am told that sealed would result in tighter bass, hence going with the 12" sealed although after listening to the 10" ported, I kinda liked it too.
Any suggestions would be highly appreciated. Almost there to bite the bullet, just need some expert advice from you guys
Thank you very much
Replies:
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: January 24, 2008 at 10:09 AM
Posted By: blackody
Date Posted: January 27, 2008 at 4:55 PM
KarTuneMan wrote:
The Alpine head unit will NOT play your tunes. It WILL however sync up for phone features.
The MRP amps are great product.
Thank you for your reply.
Per Alpine website, there are several of their HUs that will play iPhones. Luckily for the first time, I got to see the 9886, a really nice player, may be too nice for my Accord. It was connected to an iPod connector and readily played songs off my iPhone. It was kinda cool toe see how easily it navigated my iPhone tracks and podcasts....
So, it does work
As far as amps, I am going with JL audio. Been hearing too many times that while Alpine HUs are one of the best, for amps and speakers, JL audio is some of the best as well (for my purpose, daily driver etc. etc.)
Still need some input/advice from the pros out there
Posted By: blackody
Date Posted: February 15, 2008 at 3:25 PM
I read and I read different posts here until I convinced myself that I was a great installer The reality was somewhat different, until I actually started tearing things apart and started to get stuck in a royal manner.
I went to the local installer link and found Omar in Lewisville. He agreed to start to work on the car right away and finished installing in like five hours (three of them working off and on).
This is what I have installed so far:
* Alpine CDA-9886
* Boston Acoustics SX60
* JL Audio A Series A4300
* JL Audio CS112RG-W1v2
My iPhone is connected to the HU with the supplied Alpine KCE-422i and my iRiver Clix is also connected to the HU with using Alpine KCA-121B Auxiliary Input Adapter.
The sound is amazing
Omar did an outstanding job of installing the hardware once I drove my car to him that was literally in pieces (started to install the stuff on my own and at one time realized it was tad bit too much for me).
As soon as he fired up the system, he told me that there was not enough bass as 90w @4ohm was not at all sufficient to drive the 300w RMS sub.
Then when I call Crutchfield, they (including the salesman) say that that is a true statement. Now that I see my original post, I was all for running two amps, one for the fronts and one for the sub.
Also, even 18w RMS from the HU that is powering the rear OEM speakers is causing somewhat of distortion, so I am contemplating replacing the rear speakers with most likely JL Audio TR690-TXi or JL Audio VR690-CXi.
I did take the opportunity and add Dynamat 10435 Xtreme Door Kit to the front doors that house the components. I believe it makes a great difference!! Oh, Omar took the trouble of installing the tweeter close the woofer on the front as suggest by all you gurus out here
Now, my question to all of you: what amp to run the subs as I am having to run the subwoofer lever on HU to almost full to hear any bass at all. Granted, I am not playing it too loud as I am trying to gently break-in my 12" boom box.
Please note that my sub should run at 50~500w RMS per Crutchfield website and 300W RMS per JL Audio website:
* Alpine MRP-M450 approx. 220W RMS $150
* Alpine MRP-M500 approx. 300W RMS $200
* Alpine MRP-M850 approx. 500W RMS $279
I would like to go with Alpine amps as they seem like they have a better value and after reading the how to choose an amp thread, I think I do not necessarily have to go with an JL audio....
Please also note that all power ratings are based on 14.4v, 12v will result in lower output.
I would really appreciate if you install gurus kindly chime in.
As always, thanks a lot for your inputs
I went to the local installer link and found Omar in Lewisville. He agreed to start to work on the car right away and finished installing in like five hours (three of them working off and on).
This is what I have installed so far:
* Alpine CDA-9886
* Boston Acoustics SX60
* JL Audio A Series A4300
* JL Audio CS112RG-W1v2
My iPhone is connected to the HU with the supplied Alpine KCE-422i and my iRiver Clix is also connected to the HU with using Alpine KCA-121B Auxiliary Input Adapter.
The sound is amazing
Omar did an outstanding job of installing the hardware once I drove my car to him that was literally in pieces (started to install the stuff on my own and at one time realized it was tad bit too much for me).
As soon as he fired up the system, he told me that there was not enough bass as 90w @4ohm was not at all sufficient to drive the 300w RMS sub.
Then when I call Crutchfield, they (including the salesman) say that that is a true statement. Now that I see my original post, I was all for running two amps, one for the fronts and one for the sub.
Also, even 18w RMS from the HU that is powering the rear OEM speakers is causing somewhat of distortion, so I am contemplating replacing the rear speakers with most likely JL Audio TR690-TXi or JL Audio VR690-CXi.
I did take the opportunity and add Dynamat 10435 Xtreme Door Kit to the front doors that house the components. I believe it makes a great difference!! Oh, Omar took the trouble of installing the tweeter close the woofer on the front as suggest by all you gurus out here
Now, my question to all of you: what amp to run the subs as I am having to run the subwoofer lever on HU to almost full to hear any bass at all. Granted, I am not playing it too loud as I am trying to gently break-in my 12" boom box.
Please note that my sub should run at 50~500w RMS per Crutchfield website and 300W RMS per JL Audio website:
* Alpine MRP-M450 approx. 220W RMS $150
* Alpine MRP-M500 approx. 300W RMS $200
* Alpine MRP-M850 approx. 500W RMS $279
I would like to go with Alpine amps as they seem like they have a better value and after reading the how to choose an amp thread, I think I do not necessarily have to go with an JL audio....
Please also note that all power ratings are based on 14.4v, 12v will result in lower output.
I would really appreciate if you install gurus kindly chime in.
As always, thanks a lot for your inputs
Posted By: tezjet
Date Posted: February 15, 2008 at 4:06 PM
From what I have read the alpine amps are very nice if you got the cash . As for which amp its up to you, if you feel comfortable with the fact that it may be possible to blow the sub then go with the 500. Really though in my opinion go with the 300 because the subwoofer in that system is a 12w1v2 which according to these specs (https://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=16) should be at about 300 if you want to push it.
Just my 2cents,
(newbie)~Steve
. As for which amp its up to you, if you feel comfortable with the fact that it may be possible to blow the sub then go with the 500. Really though in my opinion go with the 300 because the subwoofer in that system is a 12w1v2 which according to these specs (https://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=16) should be at about 300 if you want to push it.
Just my 2cents,
(newbie)~Steve
Posted By: blackody
Date Posted: February 15, 2008 at 4:16 PM
Thanks Steve for your reply.
I am thinking Alpine MRP-M500 approx. 300W RMS $200 would possibly be the best choice as it matches with what the JL audio website tells me.
On the other hand, Crutchfield experts say that JL audio understates their ratings and are about to revise their ratings (not that I've seen the update until now).
I just want to avoid buying a 300W sub only to be told (as I've already been told) that I could have easily gone 500W and optimized the performance of the great subwoofer that I happen to own.
Regards,
Rubaiyat (fellow noob here)
I am thinking Alpine MRP-M500 approx. 300W RMS $200 would possibly be the best choice as it matches with what the JL audio website tells me.
On the other hand, Crutchfield experts say that JL audio understates their ratings and are about to revise their ratings (not that I've seen the update until now).
I just want to avoid buying a 300W sub only to be told (as I've already been told) that I could have easily gone 500W and optimized the performance of the great subwoofer that I happen to own.
Regards,
Rubaiyat (fellow noob here)
Posted By: tezjet
Date Posted: February 15, 2008 at 4:23 PM
From what I have read JL does underestimate their stuff pretty good, but do you want to be on the safe side or blow a sub? I mean a new 12w1v2 is only 140 from crutchfield (around 120 on woofersetc.com) so if you do blow it you might be a little disappointed.
Also a sealed box from what I have read will take a little more power most of the time, so ultimately the decision is yours. Don't let other people make your decisions, thus maybe why you are in this predicament now?
Good Luck
~Steve
Also a sealed box from what I have read will take a little more power most of the time, so ultimately the decision is yours. Don't let other people make your decisions, thus maybe why you are in this predicament now?
Good Luck
~Steve
Posted By: blackody
Date Posted: February 15, 2008 at 4:48 PM
tezjet wrote:
From what I have read JL does underestimate their stuff pretty good, but do you want to be on the safe side or blow a sub? I mean a new 12w1v2 is only 140 from crutchfield (around 120 on woofersetc.com) so if you do blow it you might be a little disappointed.
Also a sealed box from what I have read will take a little more power most of the time, so ultimately the decision is yours. Don't let other people make your decisions, thus maybe why you are in this predicament now?
Good Luck
~Steve
Roger that
