deck has power but no illumination
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=101911
Printed Date: May 11, 2024 at 7:09 AM
Topic: deck has power but no illumination
Posted By: tak4
Subject: deck has power but no illumination
Date Posted: February 05, 2008 at 4:43 PM
Hello, While installing a deck everything started up fine, but when the XM cable thing hit the ash tray metal it made a spark. The deck is still getting power, as the little power button still lights up, but nothing shows up on the face and none of the other functions work. I checked the fuse in the deck and its fine, I also changed it just in case, and still have the same problem? Any Idea whats wrong?
Replies:
Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: February 05, 2008 at 4:49 PM
Use a volt meter to check that your deck has power on the ignition input wire and the battery wire. If it doesn't then check for blown fuses in the car. Use the meter to verify that your radio has a good ground. Hopefully you used an adaptor plug to connect your deck. This helps to insure that you have it wired up correctly.
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sparky
Posted By: tak4
Date Posted: February 05, 2008 at 4:57 PM
I do have a volt meter but i dont know what settings to put it at. Is it Vdc 20volts? Also is the ignition input the White wire and battery wire Red? I just checked for a blown "raidio" fuse in side the car, and its fine. I did not use an adaptor but befor the spark everything worked perfect.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: February 05, 2008 at 5:11 PM
Yes 20 VDC is what you need to put the meter on.
Posted By: tak4
Date Posted: February 05, 2008 at 5:21 PM
I have found a guy that has the same problem as me, and some said to connect the Red wire to the Yellow, and it should work, but your setting will reset everytime. Does that work? if so do you connect the Y and R wire on the stereo deck plug? or mach the Y deck plug with the R wire from the car and vise versa? Thanks
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: February 05, 2008 at 5:40 PM
If your are missing constant voltage, then yes connecting the yellow to where the red is connected will get your radio working. There are 2 fuses that power the radio. The radio fuse you found is for the switched wire. I have no idea what the fuse for the constant wire will be labeled. There are 2 locations on that car that contains fuses. You may have to check each fuse in both boxes to find the blown one.
Posted By: tak4
Date Posted: February 05, 2008 at 5:59 PM
Im not sure if im getting constant voltage, my voltmeter seems to be not working. So I connect the yellow and red wire on the harness together? than connect that to something? or just connect the Yellow and red wires on the harness
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: February 05, 2008 at 7:08 PM
If the radio fuse was not blown, disconnect the yellow wire from the harness and connect the yellow wire of the radio to the red wire of the radio. You need to leave the red wire of the radio connected to the vehicle wire that it was connected to.
Posted By: tak4
Date Posted: February 05, 2008 at 8:48 PM
Oh so, I connect the yellow and red of the radio and connect the red of the car to the already connected yellow and red radio wire? What if that doesnt work? and my friend hit the yellow car wire on the metal deck and sparked, now there is no power going to it? (This is all for my friend, but now its the exact same as mines) has no power going to it. But we checked every single fuse. and they all seemed fine? we're both kind of poor to go to a professional.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: February 05, 2008 at 9:20 PM
What kind of vehicle are we dealing with? Yours and your friends? Touching a possible power wire to the chassis of a radio is not the best way to see if the wire is hot.
Posted By: tak4
Date Posted: February 05, 2008 at 9:29 PM
My car is a 2000 Celica GTS and friend is a 1999 Sentra. He accedently hit the yellow wire and now the power button that use to be lit, doesnt any more. We also tried to reinstall his old deck, and that doesnt work too.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: February 05, 2008 at 10:10 PM
I am pretty sure that both of those cars have 2 fuseboxes. 1 in the car and 1 under the hood. Did you check every fuse in both boxes?
Posted By: tak4
Date Posted: February 05, 2008 at 10:14 PM
We checked all the ones in the car, the ones under the hood are much larger and dont know how to see if there blown
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: February 06, 2008 at 12:04 AM
The Celica may have a 3rd fuse box on the passenger side under the glove compartment. Did you check that one too?
Posted By: techman93
Date Posted: February 06, 2008 at 12:12 AM
I would suspect the fuse to be under the hood if it is the constant 12v+ source. You will need to see if you can see the fuse connection to see if it intact or if has separated due to grounding out the hot lead.
If you have a test light or DMM I would use that to check each fuse to make sure you didn't overlook anything. Sometimes fuses blow and don't cause much of a separation and do not appear to be blown.
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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya
Posted By: tak4
Date Posted: February 06, 2008 at 12:45 AM
"The Celica may have a 3rd fuse box on the passenger side under the glove compartment" I looked in the one inside below the glove box, and the one under the hood, with the large box like fueses. But I didnt know theres a 3rd fus location. Im going to get a price quote to see how much it might cost to fix, if can. Around how much do you guys think it will cost? thank you so much for all the help
Posted By: techman93
Date Posted: February 06, 2008 at 7:51 PM
It will depend on what you want done. Run a new power wire wont take too long. About an hour so what ever it will cost for an hour labor and a fuse holder. If you want them to diagnose problem and repair then it will be a couple hours and parts as needed. I would run a new power line to ignition harness or just direct to battery with a fuse on constant 12v source. Fuse close to power source, 12 to 18 inches away. 14 awg or 16 awg wire will be more then plenty. Fused at 10 to 15 amps. It may take you an hour to two but doing it yourself you can save some money. If you have a problem working around voltage, disconnect battery and make your connection. It will prevent you from accidentally shorting out something.
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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya
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