Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2 12’s sealed box

Looking to get some new subs and upgrade from some POS ones I picked up as a total setup from a friend.

I can't decide and am looking for a little advice:
2 12" RE Audio SR or
2 12" Alpine Type S or
2 12" MB Quart RWE-304.

They will be going into a sealed box at the recommended manufacturer specs. Amp is a bxi-1606d so will be pushing them a little over RMS. I listen to mainly metal(lots of double pedal action) type music, which mainly gives me the goal of load, but mainly SQ.

Any advice or opinions appreciated. Thanks

For the price of each and for SQ I would get the MB Quarts.

because they handle more RMS watts then the others and the RE's are more suited for ported enclosures. If I were to get alpine subs I would go with type R's I really dont like the other models

I really like the sound of the Alpines...but in a ported box. Sealed I wouldn't choose them

aznboi3644 wrote:

I really like the sound of the Alpines...but in a ported box. Sealed I wouldn't choose them

Yeah I feel the same way thats why I said the MB Quartz cause he wants a sealed enclosure.

The OP listed Alpine SWS, not type R. S tends to favor sealed. Looks like a good choice for the music, but as always...listen first with YOUR music.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

Ahh ic...I misread it and was thinking the R's. Thanks Steve

I would still recommend the MB Quartz.

RE SE in a cube sealed (per) will take a beating without a problem. I have seen more than a few Quarts blown. The Alpines are always an option.

The car if it makes any difference is an old 1973 Plymouth Duster where they will be located in the trunk.

Thanks for the great opinions so far. Anyone else? I need to break this 3 way tie. posted_image

wellll, my 2 cents, i've had alpine type s, excellent in clarity at all volumes. i've had mb quart, very clean at lower volumes, but tend to get a little woofy. i've never heard the re's but from word of mouth i understand they'll put a hitch in your getty-up. soo, my final thought, looks like we got ourselves a mexican standoff.

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The RE is a good driver, no doubt, but I think they're a litle overpriced...

The Alpines are going to give you good overall performance, especially in a sealed box.

The MBQuart (no "z") would be my choice, I think, given the three, but NOT by a huge margin. All good drivers to choose from in this group, and all very capable performers.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Awesome, thanks for all the great feedback. Now I am torn between the RE and the MBQuarts. posted_image

Another question: Would I benefit more, in a total sound quality aspect, if I purchased a set of nice components or even possibly a new HU for the front instead of new subs?

My current setup: 1973 Plymouth Duster
(1) Cheapie Blaupunkt HU that I got for Christmas a couple years back which does the job since 95% of my music comes off my MP3 player
(2) 4" Alpine type s coaxial speakers in a custom box on my tranny hump with the HU.
(2) 6x9 Infinty Reference 9622i in the rear shelf
(1) 100x2 amp which runs the 6x9's at 2 ohm and the 4's at 8 ohms so they are around RMS
(1) Hifonics 1606d running 2 visonik 10w6v2(or some model number like that) at 1.5 ohms almost ready to explode(good thing they are 10 bucks right?) in a ported custom slot box tuned to 35 hz

My only dilemma is that I would like to my best ability keep the car as stock as possible thus cutting into the door panels for a set of components is a absolute last resort, and thus giving me no spot for a set of components unless I stick them in my tranny hump box where they fire into my leg and at the door. posted_image

Thanks in advance for any replies. posted_image

~Steve

After that last wall of text I figured I would go take a few pictures to make sure the above made sense. Pictures are always fun to look at too.

Old Yeller
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Side view inside(if I got a set of components they would go into the side of that box)
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Custom tranny hump box
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Current subs
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Trunk space
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I guess what I am really looking for in my system is that kick drum and overall just loud and good sounding! Lemme know what you think.
Thanks,
~Steve

My transmission line and 12W6 kills those quick kick drum hits.

Nice enclosure by the way...did you build that??
Also your trunk is HUGACIOUS!!

How many dead bodies can you fit in there??

Haha, yeah the enclosure was built by me and my brother. Its tuned to 35hz and about 1.5 cubes. I think I could probably fit about 3 full sized people in the trunk and still have space posted_image

.

I have been reading a little about transmission line boxes, but the math is still a bit confusing as I am still learning about ported boxes and such. What is the specs on you box for your 12w6?

Thanks,
~Steve

Well the line is tuned around 32hz unstuffed. Line is non-tapered. External box specs are 38" wide, 16.5" tall, and 21.75" deep

I have been reading up on how stuffing affects the line though so I am going to rebuild another line that is about half as small

theetimeurban wrote:

i've never heard the re's but from word of mouth i understand they'll put a hitch in your getty-up. soo, my final thought, looks like we got ourselves a mexican standoff.

LMAO!

tezjet wrote:

My current setup: 1973 Plymouth Duster

That car is freaking awesome.

tezjet wrote:

Another question: Would I benefit more, in a total sound quality aspect, if I purchased a set of nice components or even possibly a new HU for the front instead of new subs?

This is sort of relative - I'd put componets in the doors - I can't say I really understand why this is a last resort - I can't imagine how using a "hump box" like that would really sound. I'd cry if I had to use one.

I mean what are your goals? "Total sound quality" would make me say new front speakers first.

With an old car like that, you could dynamat it maybe. That'd be a cheap, drastic improvement.

I'd think the car needs alot of other things besides new subs - although that is usually the most *fun* upgrade.

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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview

sedate wrote:

theetimeurban wrote:

i've never heard the re's but from word of mouth i understand they'll put a hitch in your getty-up. soo, my final thought, looks like we got ourselves a mexican standoff.

LMAO!

I'm glad you liked that. I take it you haven't had the pleasure of talkin to someone born and bred South Carolina.

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Hello , long time reader , first time responder to the 12v. I love your car. I had a 74 dodge Satelite Seabring about the same color as yours . I had a similar trunk sub and after installing it the first thing I had to do was DYNOMAT !!!!! Lots of it through out the car. I also had a very similar consol as yours HU only with some pioneer 3-ways flanking each side. I too did not want to cut the door panels so I constructed some kick panels that could be easily removed and return to stock when I sold the car. In all I had pretty good imaging and seperation but the sound stage was quite low at my feet. I like what youve done but I would definately recomend Dynomat the doors and anywhere else you can .....cieling , floor , rear deck , ect.ect.

For the custom kick panels did you custom fiberglass some? Did they have any pitch/angle to them? I am really reading into fiberglassing here on the forums, but am a little hesitant just to my lack of experience with any such thing. I think I will rammat the doors since that has been suggested twice now.

Thanks for the compliments on the car and thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.

~Steve

at the time I did not fiberglass. like you I wasnt too familiar with it so I just used 1/2 MDF & cut it at just the right angle so it fit out facing upwards a bit & covered it with material that matched the doors. If you have the tools and time , glassing them would be a more unique and custom look for your ride. Looking at your box it appears as you have some skills there. Might work out for you. Good Luck

tezjet wrote:

I think I will rammat the doors since that has been suggested twice now.

This is a huge, cheap improvement - particualrly with older vehicles anyway. rammat, dynamat, second skin, these are all good solutions here.

tezjet wrote:

I am really reading into fiberglassing here on the forums, but am a little hesitant thato my lack of experience with any such thing.

Looking at that gorgeous tapered (how'd u taper it like that anyway?), ported enclosure I'd have to agree that you can handle kickpods. Figure you'd have to build them twice - once to make mistakes and get the idea - and once to make perfect. These are sort of hands-on type of thing. Anyway - you can get experience if ya don't bone up and make it work eh!

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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview

haha, true true. Me and my brother built that vented box and the taper was actually way easier than it looks(as long as you have the tools). To do the taper, setup the table saw where the blade is *almost* through the wood(very touchy and takes a kind of feel. make sure there is NO CRACKING, if there is then raise the blade). I used a piece of scrap and did a couple testers and was very happy with the results. Run it at a set increment 10 times. Mine was a 3 inch radius so we cut it 3/8(sawblade eats up 1/8) 10 times then just gave the wood a good bend and the inside smushed together forming a pretty tough edge, and the outside is that awesome tapered look.(My brother has some build pics I will get my hands on and post)

Spring break is in two weeks, so I am gonna order up some fiberglass supplys and will post my results and pics after I make a few attempts posted_image

Thanks again guys. I appreciate all comments/suggestions.
~Steve

Nice work, tezjet. I like that style.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

Any suggestions on what type of fiberglass and resin would best suit my situation? I plan on messing up once or twice, so based on that how much might I need? I live in So-Cal if that makes a difference. Also I don't mind ordering stuff online but shipping + cost = more than gas and a local shop. Any suggestions where to get some quality stuff?

Thanks,
~Steve

you can easily go to the local Home Depot or Lowes hardware stores and they will have fiberglass kits and supplies usually in the paint department. They sell the stuff for fiberglass tub repairs but works just as good for your aplication. You will also need to get small amount of Fleece fabric from fabric or sewing store. Wal-marts even have it there. I believe somewhere on this web site you can buy or view instructional video's on glassing. Some of the other long time experts here can guide you in that direction.

Thanks for the info. I found a few really good tutorials, but there was no actual names of materials. I will cruise down to the depot this weekend and see what I can find. THANKS!

~Steve

Bondo brand fiberglass - sold in quarts - at Home Depot or Lowes. Get yourself an extra tube of hardner - the little tube that comes with the quart isn't enough for the whole quart.

You can use fleece or regular fiberglass mat - *anything* pourous works as a substrate.

Post up build pics of that taper.

Good luck.

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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview