memphis amp problem
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=102252
Printed Date: May 29, 2024 at 7:38 AM
Topic: memphis amp problem
Posted By: amcman
Subject: memphis amp problem
Date Posted: February 16, 2008 at 4:19 PM
Hello, I am new here, been searching the web for a solution to my long-frustrated problem.
Alright to start I have:
Kenwood Deck ( KDC-MP735U )
Memphis Amp ( MClass 1100W x 1, Class D Mono Block Amplifier, 16-MCD1000 )
Dual 1000Series DD Subs
Dual R-Type Tweeter/Speakers
I have 4 gauge wire running from battery to amp, and 4 gauge wire running as ground wire. I have 10 or 12 gauge from the amp to both subs. And speaker wire for remote wire and for the speakers.
My problem is that when I turn the car on(Engine is running), The protect light comes on and only my speakers work. After I drive around for bit, and the car warms up if i push the brake, or the clutch in, the amps protect light turns off and power light on thus the subs kick in for about a minute or till I hit the gas pedal and it turns to protect again.
But the trickery part is that when I just turn the car are into acc. mode. The amp turns on and the subs run perfectly. But once I turn the car on with the engine running it goes back to protect mode.
I have re-wired everything! I think I re-wired the deck atleast 3-4 times(All speakers wires, power, remote to amp, rca's, Ipod adapter...) And the amp about 5 times(Ground, power wire, rca's, sub wiring) And I still do not have a solution.
If anyone has a solution to this I would be greatful!
Also this is being ran in a 1982 AMC Spirit, it has a 66 amp Altenator(i think) and has worked up until a week or so after I got my new deck. This problem has been going on since before december, just asking for a last hope to have it fixed.
Replies:
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: February 16, 2008 at 4:39 PM
You need to check the voltage on the remote and power wire of the amp. Check it with the engine off and then with the engine revved up a little and the amp not playing. Post all 4 voltages here.
Posted By: tezjet
Date Posted: February 16, 2008 at 4:45 PM
Volume while the car is in acc and on being at the same level? Is the amp heating up at all? The first thing I am thinking towards is possible sub wiring.
Posted By: tezjet
Date Posted: February 16, 2008 at 4:49 PM
Ahh, idiot has a good point. Was really odd, we wired up my brothers 2 amps in his 05 altima and with both of them setup the amps would go into protect. When we removed a power or ground from one the other would turn on perfectly. The problem ended up being the remote wire and its juice. He ended up tieing the amp remote into the cars accesory and everything worked perfectly.
Good luck and report back!
~Steve
Posted By: amcman
Date Posted: February 16, 2008 at 4:54 PM
i am an idiot - Where do I check the voltage's at? At the amp side? tezjet - I leave the volume the same, I turn the gain down or up it doesn't change. The Volume / Sub volume and everything else on deck stays the same. Also I just went out to see if it works since its finally warm out ( - 2 celcius ) and when I just turn the car on (Engine running), the subs do work with the green light on until I hit the gas pedal and it turns off. Then I turn the car off and on again without touching the gas pedal, its in protect mode again. Anything else?
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: February 16, 2008 at 6:12 PM
Yes take all readings AT the amp.
Posted By: amcman
Date Posted: February 16, 2008 at 7:14 PM
Alright i am an idiot, I got the values for you. Power Wire Values: Off: 13.47 On(acc mode): 12.37 On(Engine): 17.35 Remote Wire Values: Off: 0.1 - 0.2 On(acc mode): 11.54 On(Engine): 16.52 Re-cap: When I run it in acc mode it works fine. But when I run it with the engine it, it goes into protect mode. So what do these values tell you?
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: February 16, 2008 at 7:24 PM
They tell me that your voltage regulator or your alternator is bad. The pulse width modulator chip in the power supply of the amp does not like to see anything over 15.0 volts on the remote wire. If the car has an outboard voltage regulator, check for a loose ground connection. If it is in the alternator, have it checked.
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: February 16, 2008 at 7:29 PM
17.35 volts...... now your cooking with fire. idiots got it! -------------
Posted By: amcman
Date Posted: February 16, 2008 at 7:34 PM
Yea, my dad who knows AMC's inside and out says that my altenator has it built in. So if I switch up my altenator it should fix itself? Also how does it explain it cuting in and out when I push the clutch/break in when i'm driving?
Posted By: amcman
Date Posted: February 16, 2008 at 7:50 PM
So I went out and check what my altenator was running at, and its at 17.89 volts. And my battery was at 14.44volts. Does that say anything to this?
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: February 16, 2008 at 8:06 PM
At idle the alternator is not putting out 17 volts. When you rev it up a little it is putting out 17 volts. Have you been having trouble with light bulbs in the car? The only way I can explain the difference between battery voltage and alternator voltage is a bad connection.
Posted By: amcman
Date Posted: February 16, 2008 at 8:10 PM
Thats when its idling and no i been having fuse problems, just two that are not needed. Other then that everythings fine with my car accept for maybe tires :P
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