Alternative to Dynamat?

Cool Cool. I'll look into it. I just don't want to spend a lot because I don't plan on having this car more than a year more.

Eh, I would like an alternative or at least an addition to Dynamat, as well. I'm aware this topic is sort of old but I really do need some help here. I'm running 2 MTX Thunder 9500s and I've already had my trunk Dynamatted to hell and back, but I still get rattle. I've tried to double up on the seal with some 3/4" rubber weather seal but it didn't help very much. The only thing I can think of is getting some heavy duty thick rubber sealing (Like what would be on a fridge, only larger) and putting it around the other seal.

Some help would be wonderful, haha.

that's the carpet under pad.

yeah that's some pretty dense stuff. you could use spray adhesive to help keep it in place I guess

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Yikes this thread is so full of bad information and terrible advice.  I'll spare the offenders my usual quotations.

Anyway - roofing supplies are a poor substitute for any particular butyl rubber based, aluminum skinned deadners.  I can't stress this enough.

Please remember that few people have experience with more than one deadner and everyone that does thier car with roofing supplies always gets on forums and touts thier genius for the next year - having no idea what a proper Dynamat (extreme) or Copymat installation will really do.  These asphalt based roofing supplies do nothing more than add minimal mass - which does deaden resonance a bit - but nothing on the order of what viscoelastic butyl rubber based-aluminum skinned products like Dynamat or B-Quiet or Damplifier do - these products absorb vibration by virtue of thier molecular makeup - not just by the mass they add to the car panel.

Asphalt-based roofing supplies not only have a particularly strong-odor, which some people report NEVER goes away - but they fail at temperatures that can easily be exceeded by a car parked in sun on a summer day.  Most anecodotal evidence here (from people that stick with forum life and aren't embarassed to be honest about the results of thier peel & seal attempt) point to complete adhesion failure during the second or third summer after installation - after which you can look forward to scraping gooey ashphalt from parts of your car that your hands don't really reach.

Please remember that these products are not "sonic shields" in the sense that people seem to think - I rarely see deadner installed correctly - the purpose of deadner is to remove vibration from metal.  The benefits here are when it is applied across large, flat panels that resonate as sound waves travel through them - car doors, trunk lids, quarter panels.

Also - this discussion of carpet padding - products like these DO absorb airborne soundwaves, but this is a goal for luxury vehicles that want a quiet ride.  For someone installing a stereo, propagation of airborne soundwaves is the GOAL - propagation of soundwaves thru sheet metal and the car body however, is what causes resonance and the majority of rattles - again - the idea here is to deaden the car itself - so stuffing car panels with padding will quiet the ride a bit - and by virtue of that create the impression of increased SQ.  However, obviously the easier and more elegant way to do this is to deaden the panels properly with a butyl based product.

i offer an extreme solution to noise that wont go away it's not pretty or easy but it has worked for myself in the past.  you can use liquid nails* on the  inside of the bodie panel(outside lines), then take polly fill (pillow stuffing) and cram a good amount in the exsisting space then take good old dynomat* and place that over the inside structure where the actual interior panels attach to.  another quick tip for the trunk is to tighten the trunk latch(move down/up) a millimeter or two, it might take more force to close the trunk but it will be much tighter as well.  after your done doing this the car bodie should be a solid as fiber glass.  down side is your car will be heavier and any type of bodie work will be next to impossible.

davngr wrote:

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i offer an extreme solution to noise that wont go away it's not pretty or easy but it has worked for myself in the past.  you can use liquid nails* on the  inside of the bodie panel(outside lines), then take polly fill (pillow stuffing) and cram a good amount in the exsisting space then take good old dynomat* and place that over the inside structure where the actual interior panels attach to.

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I have no idea what you are saying here.  Could you rewrite/re-explain this?  Maybe with a picture? 

sedate wrote:

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davngr wrote:

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i offer an extreme solution to noise that wont go away it's not pretty or easy but it has worked for myself in the past.  you can use liquid nails* on the  inside of the bodie panel(outside lines), then take polly fill (pillow stuffing) and cram a good amount in the exsisting space then take good old dynomat* and place that over the inside structure where the actual interior panels attach to.

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I have no idea what you are saying here.  Could you rewrite/re-explain this?  Maybe with a picture? 

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this computer dosent have any type of drawing softwhre and i cant find any pictures.  i agree with your post that dynomat is the way to go.  the smells associated with the roofing/construction material are awful.  i havent done this since the days before spray deadner so i used liquidnails(or something like it). today,i would actually use spray deadner to get into the tight areas behind the oem speaker mounts. i hope this makes it clearer for you as far my meaning.

aznboi wrote:

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Second Skin is better than Dynamat...Higher quality and higher heat tolerance. I hate how everyone says Dynamat is the best...it's overpriced IMO

36 sq ft of Dynamat is $270 from their site.

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Huh?

https://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1344

Street price on that stuff is comparable with any competing product.

aznboi wrote:

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36.5 sq ft of the better Damplifier Pro is $159.87 directly from the site.

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Damplifier Pro is a very nice looking product - I can't stand all the half cut Dynamat logos that look back at you when you open my trunk lid - I'm thinking of doing it again with Damplifier Pro.  That clean aluminum look of all the Copymats is really slick. 

sedate wrote:

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Yikes this thread is so full of bad information and terrible advice.  I'll spare the offenders my usual quotations.

Anyway - roofing supplies are a poor substitute for any particular butyl rubber based, aluminum skinned deadners.  I can't stress this enough......

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Well said, sedate, and a welcome dose of reality for this un-12volt-like thread.

still_walkin wrote:

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You can try fatmat but on the heat tolerance inst the good. I had 100sq ft in my trunk and the sides and the back stayed on but onthe the lid on the trunk didn't it slowly came off I'm thinking on using somethin else. Fatmart is $60 for 50ft on ebay

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still_walkin wrote:

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You can try fatmat but on the heat tolerance inst the good. I had 100sq ft in my trunk and the sides and the back stayed on but onthe the lid on the trunk didn't it slowly came off I'm thinking on using somethin else. Fatmart is $60 for 50ft on ebay

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FatMat IS Peel & Seel with spray painted logo.  If you buy it, you'll notice that little Napster-like logo rubs off with your fingers.  The stuff is garbage, any audiophile that tries it thinks so.

still_walkin wrote:

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So any suggestions for what to put on my lid .

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Yea.

https://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1344

https://www.secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier-pro.php?category=120

If you want it to stick you your lid, you need a butyl based deadner.  If you can afford all the amplifiers and subs and speakers, I think you can afford the greatest upgrade you can make to ur stereo. 

Don't cheap out here - you have no idea what ur missing.

daboss wrote:

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i know this post is old but i just got done with fatmat and yes you cant put it on you trunk it wont stay.it dsnt help i live in FLA either. it seems to stay every where else and ive seen a large diff in the sound that and i doubled it up also. dynamat may be the supposed best on earth but it very over priced.

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You may have noticed a marginal sound improvement using roofing supplies, but I can assure you that a proper butyl-rubber based sound deadener, like Dynamat Extreme, is a far, far superior solution.  Nevermind your car now smells like asphalt.

You even acknowledge you can't get the stuff to stay on your trunk lid - I mean - if you bought paint that didn't dry would you call paint that did overpriced?

~$150 for a case of Dynamat Extreme is a steal when you consider that properly installed the stuff can effectively TRIPLE your amplifier power.

Next time you post, please pay at least SOME attention to grammer, comma placement, and the like.

tattooedkaos wrote:

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I was wondering if you have any good tutorials or how-to videos you could point me to? I am gonna be doing raammat and ensolite foam, and I want to make sure I am doing it right, so I am not wasting my time or my money.

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I wouldn't use the ensolite for anything except lining ur trunk floor - that stuff over an aluminum skin is going to be close to impossible with adhesives that I can think of - nevermind that getting it uniform over the surfaces of your car that matter most - like the outer door skin - will be pretty much impossible. The butyl based BXT stuff looks okay - but I'd still get Dynamat or SecondSkin for durability under heat. 

Trying to find cheap deadner is like trying to find a cheap amplifier - just spend enough money the first time on the RIGHT equipment and save urself the hassle.

Remember - a small amount of QUALITY deadner, applied in the right places and applied properly, will make HUGE improvements.  Do your trunk lid, front outer-door skin, rear quarter panels, rear outer-door skin, rest of trunk, front inner-door skin, rear inner-door skin, firewall, and vehicle floor, in precisely that order. 

Butyl deadner removes vibration from METAL - applying it to in the plastic parts of your car is a waste.

This isn't really something you can be shown a video of - you sort of have to do it and it'll make sense.  This may sound crazy - but the few how-to videos I've seen on deadener application actually give BAD advice - leaving air holes and doing the wrong parts of the car, etc.

Cut the material into - sayy - 2inch x 6 - 10 inch strips - then apply, press down around the edges, and then roller down the panel when you get it covered.  Bring the material edge to edge - overlap wastes the stuff. 

This is actually VERY EASY - you just have to roll up your sleeves, get a tactile feel for the material, and make it work.  Once you play with the mat a bit and get a feel for how maelable it is, installing it will make intuitive sense.

odd?Rubberized Compound-Fatmat sound deadener has a rubberized compound that is fused with a 1 mil Acrylic PSA "Pressure Sensitive Adhesive" Backing. This is the barrier used to absorb the nasty noises you don't want to hear (Rattles, Road Noise, Ect). The PSA backing is strong and very effective in keeping your mat where you want it. Unlike other products on the market with Fatmat you will not need any heating guns or other tools to install it, it's made to form and fuse to just about any surface possible, and it adheres better than any other mats on the market as our customers all agree. The last thing you want is for your mat to fall off in a week after you worked so hard installing it right? The nightmares of using other brand mats would make anyone wish they had used fatmat first. and i also bought direct and got a warranty guess im an idiot. the reason it dsnt stay on my trunk is the FLA sun.

daboss wrote:

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The nightmares of using other brand mats would make anyone wish they had used fatmat first.

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I think not.  Even a cursory inspection of FatMat's products against market leaders like Dynamat Extreme or SecondSkin reveals that FatMat is an inferior product that is made from roofing supplies. 

FatMat is Peel&Seel with a little Napster-like logo painted onto it.  That's it.  The stuff is garbage.

https://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productid=154017-81326-PS625

Think ya got a good deal now?

daboss wrote:

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the reason it dsnt stay on my trunk is the FLA sun.

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This belies some misunderstandings about thermodynamics - but without even getting into it, I can assure you that unlike cheesy FatMat, SecondSkin or Dynamat will hold with God's own grip up to some ~400 degrees.

daboss593 wrote:

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so what now i have 2 layers of fatmat in my trunk now? and im half way through my doors? and everyone says its ok ,and everyone says it suck balls. lol

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usabuilt wrote:

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Anyone ever try this schtuff?? supposed to be pretty good,https://www.cascadeaudio.com/

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inoitall wrote:

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https://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productid=154017-81326-PS625

That link above is one that sedate gave from lowes dealing with the peel and stick stuff. Is that stuff any good? Would it work as a sound deadener like the name brands?

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neontuner9 wrote:

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lowes or home depot sells this roofing stuff its like 8 bucks for roll it small easy to work with and is the same as dynmat same thickness n everything i ran that everywhere in my car n not one raddle now

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this on and off the topic. i've fix some bad tinny rattles from trunks .with window vinyl.wedged between truck lid and opening. you can get it at a glass shop . or on constuction sites