kinetik hc2000 and stock 130 amp alt

Ok I am gonna be running a total of about 3000 watts with my whole system a kicker zx2500 and a sundown 100.4. If i get a kintetik hc2000 brand new as a starter battery and a hc2000 in the rear as well will i do fine with my 130 amp stock alternator?

I had the exact same question. Will be running a kikcer zx2500.1 and zx650.4. My stock alt also does 130 amps...2000 Chrysler 300M 3.5L V6.
I plan to do the big three and get 2 HC1800s one under the hood one in the trunk. 1800 is the biggest i can fit in my stock location i think. I wont be running the system with the car turned off, so i think i might be ok but idk. I contacted excessiveamperage and they say they can make a 200 amp alt that will bolt in the stock location so i may just do that. Tried to contact HOalts too but no response. So any suggestions would be appreciated.

Ohh and heres what i play to put in the car.

Eclipse 7200 MKII
Kicker Solo X 12"
Kicker ZX2500.1
2 sets Kicker SS series components 6.5"
Kicker ZX650.4

I get kicker stuff rediculous cheap where i work.

No, you will still need an alternator upgrade as it is the only thing in your car that makes power.   Storing power will not help.

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2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
2007 USACI World Champion
2007 World Record
2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place

Well I always figured having a big bat reserve even if the alt cant recharge it fast enough from all the current drawn is better than nothing. Im pretty sure it will help, I dont think you'll have problems, those kinetics are bad ass. Jeff has a good point and it seems like he knows alot about it. I guess it really depends on how it turns out when you hook up the system.

"Well I always figured having a big bat reserve even if the alt cant recharge it fast enough from all the current drawn is better than nothing".

As Voltage goes down, Current goes up. If the Alt can supply enough current, voltage suffers. So if you can't recharge the batteries, your amps are sucking more current, give off more heat and put out less power. Plus your batteries are not being charged correctly limiting their life.

So you wouldnt reccomend doing that?

As Mr. Chilcott stated, you need to make energy, not store it. If it were me, Single Hc-2000 under the hood and a 200 amp alt. Run 1/0 AWG welding cable to the back and see how things go. Why drag around another 70+ pounds of weight not doing you much good. Don't waste your money on a cap. I have always used wranglernw.com for Alts. Not cheap, never had a problem.

jeffchilcott wrote:

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No, you will still need an alternator upgrade as it is the only thing in your car that makes power.   Storing power will not help.

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Bah.  I disagree, totally, with this assertion.

Making power is really not what you need - this is a red herring.  What you need is current at 12.5 v - this is a byproduct of an HO alt - but an HO alt is certainly NOT the only method of producing current @ ~12v.

Of course - I concede making more power will solve the issue at hand - however, the manner in which this power is produced (voltage over RPM range) is FAR MORE CRITICAL than sheer amperage. 

To that end, storing power will MOST CERTAINLY help - and a pair of kinetiks sounds like a great way to do it.  Worst case scenario - as your batts drain off over the course of extended playing (almost regardless of alt size, I would hazard this nearly impossible with a pair of presumably paralleled deep cycle batteries - your gas tank will probably need refilling first) you can cut off your system for a few minutes and bring the batteries back up to a full 12.5v.  Here, we would be talking about ~10 minutes of low or no ouput per hour of playing time.  At most.

audiocableguy wrote:

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Why drag around another 70+ pounds of weight not doing you much good.

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And this weight issue really is the only good argument against a second battery.  However, spending ~$500 - $800 on an HO alt that MIGHT NOT put out 14v at idle is, in my estimation, not worth this calculus.  I'd rather parallel deep cycles, know for certain I've taken care of the problem at half the cost, and live with the weight of an extra batt.  If you are that concerned about the ~40 pounds another batt represents, then car audio might not be the hobby for you. . . .   

audiocableguy wrote:

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Plus your batteries are not being charged correctly limiting their life.

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Again - if your batteries are being shown >14v, (almost) regardless of amperage @ that voltage - then they are being charged correctly.  If the idle voltage drops to ~10.5v everytime you get to a stoplight, then you would be severly limiting the life of the battery.

mazzasec wrote:

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So you wouldnt reccomend doing that?

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Sounds like a great plan to me.

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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview

So what would be an appropriate decision? I was told to use 2 of the same brands of battery same type and both new. So basically I need the 2 kinetiks and a 200 amp alt? then would that be good

also i bought my car at carmax reason why its so hard to me to commit to upgrading the alt cause i dont wanna void any type of warranty

mazzasec wrote:

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i bought my car at carmax reason why its so hard to me to commit to upgrading the alt cause i dont wanna void any type of warranty

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This is probably your BEST reason to go with the dual batt solution - you best believe that you fry your ECU (I dunno how you would, just that if u did. . .) your uber-expensive Carmax warranty won't point the finger back @ u . . .

But for real answers here, you'd need to read your warranty - and even then it will probably devolve to language like "if an aftermarket upgrade is determined to be the cause of the failure, then the indemnity company is not responsible for payment. . . " - and that YOU get to pay for arbitration (at $400/hr), another mechanics opinion(at $80/hr), etc.

mazzasec wrote:

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So what would be an appropriate decision?

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Well - you would need to evalute the arguments posted and make a decision. . . I know what *I* would do. . .

mazzasec wrote:

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I was told to use 2 of the same brands of battery same type and both new

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Correct.  This prevents one with a lower ESR draining off the other everytime you turn your car off.

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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview

So even though you wont do it if i just get two equivlant batteries one starter and one in the back and keep my stock alt will i have any problems?

I *seriously* doubt it. 

In the final analysis, even with 3000watts rms, this doesn't really represent what your constant pull will be - music is dynamic and it'd take some seriously aggressive use to approach the - I dunno - 3000watts*1.5(to account for amp inefficiency)/12.5=~360amps ... but this would be pink noise @ full tilt boogie output - or a rather unrealistic measure of ur requirements.

So figure maybe ~150~200 amps, if ur aggressive- with 130 amps backed up by the MASSIVE  reserves of paralleled kinetik batteries - should be more than enough to handle this with few side effects.  But this is my judgement -

I think, given your warranty situation, electrical requirements, etc.,  paralled batteries is probably your best place to *begin* at anyrate. . .

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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview

I have offered my suggestions.   But then again what would I know about the Kicker Xk and Zx 2500.1's     A little birdie told me that when you put a clamp meter on the input side of one, they are very very capable of drawing a consistant 200-250 amps of current

And that current number only goes up as voltage goes down.

There have been about 4 posts thus far with you looking for an answer, and each time myself and others have reccomended you upgrade the Alt. Heck in the manual for your AMP it says you need to upgrade the Alt and it is reccomended you run 2 deep cycle batteries.

Run the 2 kinetiks, but when the alt goes to auto parts heaven from being overworked, Please upgrade to a higher amp model then

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2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
2007 USACI World Champion
2007 World Record
2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place