amp rack and custom box 2005 scion xa

I am getting ready to begin my first custom setup and am looking for design help and advice. I have a 2005 Scion xA. I have already chosen my amps - Alpine PDX-1.1000 and PDX-4.100. Subwoofer- Audiopulse Revo 12" D2ohm. I am looking to build a sealed enclosure, since the woofer needs a decent amount of airspace, and I am trying to preserve any hatch space I can. I am looking to utilize the space in my spare tire well around the tire itself for fuse and ground blocks and the like. I intend to keep my spare tire and would like the box to be able to be big enough to be lifted out to allow access to the spare tire, as well as being a nice, flush presentation with the rest of it, with the amps hopefully hidden with just some mesh to allow airflow and possible neons at a later date.

I am not sure if any of this is truly possible, so far I could see a box having a fiberglass bottom that conforms to the inner part of the spare tire, to help utilize all the available space I can. I can also see it having steel, studio amp rack style handles that it can be lifted out by, but above and beyond that I am at a loss, as I have never done this custom work before. I will be doing all of it mostly myself, with the help of some friends along the way, as well as full access to just about any tool I could possibly need and a full garage.

The Revo 12" recommends a sealed enclosure of 1.0 - 2.5 ft³, and I am looking for a nice in between number, that could do good SQL. I tried to do my best to give any info I thought important,if I forgot anything please let me know. I am new to all this, so please be gentle, lol



Here are some pictures of my hatch area, to help with an idea of what I am working with, they are in no particular order












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60% of the time it works every time!

hmmm, so nobody even has any suggestions for a first timer???

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60% of the time it works every time!

Generally, if the manufacturer gives a wide range of box capacities that you could use then you should tend as far toward the large side as you are able to attain best SQ and low extension.  The smaller end of the scale should likely be peakier, resulting in somewhat higher SPL but less low extension.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

I am planning on making some measurements of my hatch area tomorrow after work, so I can know what kind of room I truly have to work with. My goal currently is to be between the 1.8-2.2cubic ft range, which is on the larger end of the airspace recommendations. I want to get good low end extension, good sq, and hopefully pretty decent SPL. I was considering using a dual layer of 5/8 or 1/2" MDF to construct the whole box, as 3/4 and 1" are hard to come by around me. I also intend to use FG resin to seal the entire inside of the box, and some good waterproof paint or sealant on the outside, as the environments in cars aren't very friendly to MDF.

I am trying to learn, am reading and trying to understand as much of what I read as is possible, so that I can be fully satisfied with my work when I'm done, and so that I don't have to keep asking noob questions, lol

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60% of the time it works every time!

You might give a read to some of the things that this forum's sedate has to say about weight of the box and how to achieve rigidity without overdoing the MDF factor.  He's done more trial and error in that area than I have, given that I haven't ventured out of the "braced 3/4" MDF" way of doing things.  But I would consider going a bit lighter than the full double-baffled box, given that the box will be large and the car is small. 

A good brace weighs far less than another layer of baffle MDF, but placed in the right place adds a great deal of rigidity.  In your setup, I would give some consideration to using double 1/2" baffle face (the face baffle has the cutouts) and single 1/2" or 5/8" everywhere else.  Incorporate braces like I illustrated in the linked thread, and use 2 or 3 layers of FG resin applied to the single layer baffle walls. 

You would place braces closer together if using 1/2" (closer than with using 5/8", which needs them closer than if using 3/4").  For example, if I were to normally allow no unbraced expanse greater than 12" when using 3/4" MDF, then I would narrow the allowable expanse to 8" if using 1/2" MDF.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.