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what deck to choose?

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Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
Printed Date: December 08, 2022 at 7:29 AM

Topic: what deck to choose?

Posted By: theterminator
Subject: what deck to choose?
Date Posted: April 08, 2008 at 12:21 AM

Which deck would you choose if given these three choices:

1. Eclipse 7200

2. Alpine CDA9887

3. Clarion DRZ9255


Posted By: spookiestylez
Date Posted: April 08, 2008 at 12:39 AM
I'd say alpine, cuz I love they're head units, but the eclipse is really nice and already has built in bluetooth, where you have to buy an adapter for the Alpine. Just my 2 cents, my best advice is find a retailer for those heads so you can go and check them out and hear for yourself.


Posted By: theterminator
Date Posted: April 08, 2008 at 12:52 AM
Thanks for your opinion. The eclipse head unit will not be available until sometime this month. I have looked at the Alpine and l like the sound and tuning features. I also like the fact that you can xtend the tuning features if i were to buy the processor or imprint software.

Posted By: willdkartunes
Date Posted: April 08, 2008 at 10:25 AM

Posted By: Alpine Guy
Date Posted: April 08, 2008 at 11:48 AM
Eclipse by far has the better sound quality and build quality. Many people seem to hate the new Alpine Imprint stuff since it takes many many many tries to get it to sound right, then you can't adjust anything afterwards (says the reviews). The Eclipse sounds stellar right out of the box, add the tuning microphone and a magic gate memory stick and you have exactly what the Alpine Imprint does, plus you can still fine tune it from the unit.

I have always loved Alpines sound until I heard the top of the line Eclipse unit's...I was sold instantaniously.....I have even installed some Alpine F1 Status systems before my Eclipse's just that good.

2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.

Posted By: theterminator
Date Posted: April 08, 2008 at 12:34 PM

Does anyone have any experience with the Clarion deck? Also my amp which is an Arc Audio FD1200 input sensitivity only goes to 2.5V. Would that be a problem if decide to go with the eclipse or Clarion deck which puts out 8V?

Posted By: dragon51
Date Posted: April 08, 2008 at 6:13 PM

Just get the Eclipse and be done with it posted_image

Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: April 08, 2008 at 7:01 PM

My vote is going to be for the Alpine.  The one bad thing about Eclipse is they will not sell ANYBODY a part to repair their equipment.  I didn't say just anybody, I said anybody.  If it needs a part it goes back to Fujutsu to get repaired.  Alpine parts are easily available and reasonably priced.

Posted By: dragon51
Date Posted: April 09, 2008 at 6:48 PM

I have one of there older decks the knob stoped working, and it was not labled so apperently Fujustsu dose not even know what it is at least that is what the authoized repair shop told me.

Still a good deck and the only deck I would spend any money on is Eclips, or Nak if they played againg.

Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: April 09, 2008 at 7:23 PM
^^^^ that sounds like a pile of crap. It sounds to me like the repair shop was not authorized and was just plain lazy. I have dealt with the line for 14 years now and never ever have I had that issue crop up. The repair shop dude must have been sniffing glue.

Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

Posted By: dragon51
Date Posted: April 10, 2008 at 6:00 PM
Thanks may be then, I think I will contact them. I really like the deck.

Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: April 10, 2008 at 6:38 PM
What knob quit working on your deck?    Was it the volume control? 

Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: April 10, 2008 at 9:31 PM
Actually, it is true about the Eclipse parts... They REALLY don't like to release parts to anybody, even authorized retialers.

I had a friend who was a tech in an Eclipse "Authorized Retailer", and he was certificated from nearly every manufacturer, and he could tell you what was wrong with a deck before he opened it - he really was that good - and HE couldn't get a volume control for my 8051.

It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: April 10, 2008 at 10:46 PM
The volume controls on those decks can be repaired. Do you still have your 8051?

Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: April 10, 2008 at 11:49 PM
Yes, I do... It needs feed rollers, as well. Can those be gotten, too?

It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: April 11, 2008 at 5:54 AM

Nope can't get the feed rollers.  Can't get the volume control either, but it can actually be repaired, not replaced. 

Is the rubber on the feed rollers physically damaged or is it just free spinning on the shaft?

Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: April 11, 2008 at 9:54 AM
It's the encoder inside. The rubber is fine, and it still makes the mechanical "clicks" or "detents" when I turn it. I just have to ALWAYS turn it really, really slow (like 2 clicks a second) to make the volume go the way I am telling it to go, otherwise it just gets confused.

It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Posted By: dragon51
Date Posted: April 11, 2008 at 7:19 PM

On mine the volume works but when you push it in to get to the function bass ,treble  ect. that is the part that dose not work. It's controlled by a black circuit but it's not labeled so the tech told me it could be 5 different ones. He did send it as a fax to the eclipse manufacture but they said they don’t know what it is and the employee’s that made that deck are no longer are there.


I cant remember the model number right now but I got it in 1996 it’s a very simple looking deck but it sounds outstanding. It’s currently in my wife’s car paired up with a older Eclipse 4 channel amp with a separate sub output. So I have had to use the amp for all the tuning of the system.

Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: April 11, 2008 at 8:42 PM

I know for sure that Haem's can be repaired.  I have never had the push button switch fail on one.  The following will probably fix that one too.   You have to remove the control from the circuit board.  You will need preferably a solder sucker, if you have to buy one for this project, do yourself a favor and get an EDSYN soldapult.  I have not bought a small one lately but the soldapult III will cost you about 20 bucks locally.  To remove the pot from the board you need to remove all of the solder from the 2 pieces of the frame of the pot.   These are the 2 large solder pads.  To make sure all of the solder is off of that let it cool and make sure both pieces of the frame will move side to side.  Then you need to put extra solder on the 5 remaining connections of the pot.  After they are full of solder with your finger on the shaft of the pot, gently appying pressure to it, in order to rock it out of the board, heat up the 2 connections on one side of the pot.  Do not try to remove the legs completly, we will gently walk it out.  next we need to heat up the 3 connections on the other side, applying pressure to rock the shaft the other way.  Once it comes up a bit, take a break and let it cool down,  we don't want to melt the inside of it.  After it cools, heat the 2 connectors and now you can pull enough to get those legs out.  Do not pull hard, when it comes out you could bend the 3 legs still in the board.  Now heat the 3 legs and get them out.  I know you are asking yourself, why not use the solder sucker.  It is much safer and easier on the circuit board if the solder is melted.  Melted solder will not rip up a trace on the board.  The last thing you will need to buy to complete the process is a 3/4 inch pipe nipple 4 inches or so long, and 2 pvc threaded pipe caps. We need to drill a 1/4 inch or so hole in one of the pipe caps.  Screw the non holed pipe cap onto the nipple drop the control into the nipple with the shaft facing up.  Shoot enough WD - 40 to cover the control.  Screw the other cap onto our pipe bomb.  Now you will need an air compressor and a blow nozzle.  A rubber tipped nozzle works best.  We need to pressurize the bomb to get the WD into the sealed control.    Pressurize it several times.  Remove the end and remove the control and immediately turn it back and forth several times.  notice all of the dark wd that comes out of it.    Now use the solder sucker to remove the solder from the 5 holes and put it back in.

Posted By: dragon51
Date Posted: April 12, 2008 at 5:48 PM
Thank you for the write up I have saved it for a later date, once I replace that deck with a newer Eclipse I will then take on that then use it in my vehicle.

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