how would you set up these subs and amp?

How would "YOU" set up these subs to this amp.

2 Kicker CompVR 07CVR154 - 15" 4ohm dvc 100-500w RMS - Each In its own seald 2.4cft box https://www.crutchfieldcanada.com/Kicker_Comp_VR_07CVR154_15_Dual_4_Ohm_Voice_Coil_p/2067c15vr4.htm

Viper d1200.1 - 450w X 1 @ 4ohm, 1200w X 1 @ 1ohm https://www.drdetailshop.com/vd1200.1.htm

Would you....

A) Wire them for 4ohm - 225w to each sub

or

B) Wire them for 1ohm - 600w to each sub

I am getting these subs and would be intrested to hear how each of you would set it up. 

Are you power hungry and want to get every watt you can out of your amp or do you like to run you gear a little on the low side just to be safe?

Any other insight is welcome as always.

Thanks for confirming that Heamphyst.  

I thought thats what I remembered reading. I also read your post "How to choose an amplifier" you stated that you almost always buy an amp based on the RMS at 4ohms.  Is that because it is easier on the amp(doesn't run so hot)?

Thanks Again for your info everyone, it is always valued.

auzz]Y wrote:

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I was thinking the same, just wanted to see what a few of you guys thought.  I have read a few posts of people with simular set ups saying there will not be a huge difference in spl and you would only really notice the difference if you were competing.  I am not sure about that... Does that sound right to you guys?

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I would wire at 1-ohm.  The idea that you are going to hear impedence changes, especially with Kicker subs, is rather absurd.

More power provides not just SPL, but headroom and that accompanies (percieved) increases in SQ - whether or not some obscure measurement of THD is increased. . . .

auzz]I wrote:

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nbsp;also read your post "How to choose an amplifier" you stated that you almost always buy an amp based on the RMS at 4ohms.  Is that because it is easier on the amp(doesn't run so hot)?

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Right but if the amplifier is designed this way - it isn't really going to hurt anything.  Our worst expected symptom is decreased SQ with increased workload on the amplifier - regardless, the idea that human ears are going to hear the difference driving down the road at 40mph is completely - uhh - akin to "my new wires sound great. . . ."

The ONLY reason to purposefully wire an amplifier higher than capacity is, IMO, because a lower impedence causes electrical symptoms that interfere with vehicular operation - excessive light dimmage, dead batteries, etc.  This is NOT going to adversely impact SQ in any way human ears can actually appreciate.

High power will sound, subjectively, much better than high impedence.

auzz]I wrote:

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have read a few posts of people with simular set ups saying there will not be a huge difference in spl and you would only really notice the difference if you were competing.  I am not sure about that... Does that sound right to you guys?

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I mean the word 'huge' means different things to different people - without a doubt you will percieve increased output.

IMO, 3db is a pretty decent gain - especially when ur already up at 130 or so.

haemph wrote:

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JUST over 3dB difference. In a daily driver, not noticeable.

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It suffices to say haemph - I think your 'goals' tend to be vastly different from most of our OP's . . .

3db isn't a head-snapping gain - but it certainly is "noticeable"

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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview

Wow thanks guys, I love getting different views on things like this.  Thats why I asked how would "YOU" set it up. Thanks for all your input, greatly appreciated!

A bit more info:

I think my deck has 4v pre outs - its been a while so I am not 100% sure.  I also have a line level booster but I don't use it as my last few decks have been 4v outs.

I drive a 2000 F150 5.4 7700 with A/C - so i think the Alternator is a 130a but not sure again.  Is that enough amperage to not worry about dimming lights or dead batterys or should I think of getting an HO Alt? (damn just looked at the "Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes" chart and 1000-1200w will draw 160-172a so I think I just answered my own question)

Right now I only have 10ga power and ground wires but do plan on upgrading to 2ga or 4ga power and ground and doing THE BIG THREE before doing this upgrade.

Any more insight? 

Thanks again guys!

auzz]I wrote:

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drive a 2000 F150 5.4 7700 with A/C - so i think the Alternator is a 130a but not sure again.  Is that enough amperage to not worry about dimming lights or dead batterys or should I think of getting an HO Alt? (damn just looked at the "Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes" chart and 1000-1200w will draw 160-172a so I think I just answered my own question)

Right now I only have 10ga power and ground wires but do plan on upgrading to 2ga or 4ga power and ground and doing THE BIG THREE before doing this upgrade.

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I'd get a Deep Cycle first - this really is the first electrical upgrade you should undertake.  HO Alts are - a big deal - and should be undertaken after all other options have been exhausted.

For the lengths of wire you need for a big 3 - 4awg should be fine.

Of course - if you wire at 4-ohms - you won' t need ANY extra electrical capacity . . . hehe. . .

capamonkeyboy wrote:

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I would go with 1-ohm, having more amplifier power means having more control over the speakers. That is a lot more important than the worry of blowing out the speakers.

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This is true, BUT we're talking about the same amp. The OP's amp will have better control over the speakers loaded @ 4ohms instead of 1ohm. More power, yes. More damping, no.

I would wire it to 4ohms. Less stress on the amp, subs, and your vehicle.

Quite honestly, I would try the wiring both ways and choose what I like the best.  I can't tell you which way I'd choose from where I sit.  Wire each sub directly to terminals on the box so that you can change wiring schemes without removing the drivers.

All in all, the subs are only PART of the sound system, and everything has to be in harmony with everything else.  Would I want 45 Hz sub tones drowning out the percussion from the mids?  No, I wouldn't.  I would listen for a smooth transition through the entire freq range.

Daily listening isn't an SPL competition.

auzz]I wrote:

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have a 1 farad cap - I have read there is mixed opinions on the value caps.

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I think caps can be useful in marginal situations - I've had caps help a bit with mild light dimmage - they don't make any sort of audible difference, via the amplifier, though.

Most people here will tell you caps are pretty worthless - and in a vehicle with a properly fortified electrical system - this would be the case.

auzz]I wrote:

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think I will do what Stevdart recommended and add a second terminal to my box, that way I can switch them around a few times to test them both out and hear the difference for myself.

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Post back with which one you like better - I'm curious.

Blowntweeters wrote:

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 I would agree try it @4ohms and @1ohm.  i installed 2 15" RFp1  8 ohms. at first. i wired them 8 ohms stereo. thinking that if i ran my punch 6002. @4ohms bridged. the 746 RMS on the certificate would blow those subs. i was very disappointed with it wired @8ohms stereo.  i wired it @4ohms bridged . carefully set the gain. it sounds much louder and cleaner to my suprise.

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I would hope so, considering you tripled the power! Triple the power equals +9dB's! That's almost twice as loud!

jmelton86 wrote:

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Blowntweeters wrote:

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 I would agree try it @4ohms and @1ohm.  i installed 2 15" RFp1  8 ohms. at first. i wired them 8 ohms stereo. thinking that if i ran my punch 6002. @4ohms bridged. the 746 RMS on the certificate would blow those subs. i was very disappointed with it wired @8ohms stereo.  i wired it @4ohms bridged . carefully set the gain. it sounds much louder and cleaner to my suprise.

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I would hope so, considering you tripled the power! Triple the power equals +9dB's! That's almost twice as loud!

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Blowntweeters wrote:

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i think it sounded cleaner .because of all the headroom with that much power for those subs.just a guess it sounds great now.

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Exactly!  Power is much more desirable than a higher imepdence - particularly at these frequencies.