tuning my system

Your amp has LPF preset to 80 Hz.  Use that, and set the high pass of your mids amp to 80 Hz as well.  Both filters should be set to the same frequency.  Let  the deck supply a full range signal to the sub amp.

Apparently, the subs are single voice coil 4 ohm, so combining two would yield either 8 ohms or 2 ohms.  Not good choices to have when you want to power the pair with a stereo amp.  You can combine them and bridge the amp at 8 ohms, or you can connect one sub to each amp channel.  Either way, output is 75 - 100 watts to each sub.

I suggest you start looking for a mono amplifier, and get one that puts out real watts.  You would then be able to wire the subs to a 2 ohm impedance and run them that way.

You're not ready for gain-setting yet, but to find out how, do a site search for gains, gain setting, gain or other likely key words.  Find the Google search tool at www.the12volt.com

ok thank you,sorry about starting a new thread im a newbie,i just want to make sure i dont blow anything,i talked to a guy at an audio installation shop and he said that i couldnt do it like that and that it would still be a 2 ohm load when bridged,thought i would ask some people who REALLY know what they are talking about.

kenwoodman wrote:

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my subs are rated at 400rms ,800 max and 1200 peak,.

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How can your subs be rated at 800 'max' and 1200 'peak'? Max and peak wattage are the same thing, and not a good way to judge the power handling of the sub. Instead look at rms...

kenwoodman wrote:

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i have a two channel 4 ohm stable when bridged amp and two 4 ohm svc  subs,my question is can i connect them in series in the box and then brigde the amp ,would that bring a 4ohm load on my amp when bridged?

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To be correct, when bridging a two channel amp the load is called by the bridged impedance.  When you series-wire those subs, you will have an 8 ohm bridged load which should correspond to the same output as 4 ohms per channel.  Be aware that series-wiring those subs will not result in a 4 ohm bridged load.

So, to find power output, divide the 4 ohm bridged power rating in half.  Compare that to the per channel at 4 ohm rating...they should be the same.  When they are not the same rating, as is this case (on the specs page I linked to in my first post), the actual power per sub is an iffy matter.  Which is why I stated above that each sub will get 75-100 watts.  But it's more likely to follow the watts per channel at 4 ohm rating which is 100 watts per sub.

If you have any information that is different than that, link to it.

skee-weezy wrote:

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dude... just connect both subs in parellel to that amp.... i remember that lil amp to be a monster... however that would give u 2 ohm stereo... which will eventually shut the amp down when it gets hott... like the other guy said... .

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That is really bad advice.

kenwoodman wrote:

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oh...and one more question...the box i have now has a divider in it and i was wondering if i should take it out and use the whole box for one sub as each side has only .8 ft air space and the factory specs say for optimal performance they should have 1.25 each,how should i rectify this without having to buy or build a new box?

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Specifications Impedance 4 Peak Input Power 1200 Watts Rated Input Power 400 Watts Max Input Power 800 Watts Woofer Size " DC Resistance (Re) 3 ohms Displacement .229 cu.ft Double-Stacked Magnet System Yes Electrical Q Factor (Qes) 1.52 Force Factor Bl 10.1 Tm Frame Construction Die-Cast Free Air Resonance 45(Hz) Frequency Response K - Hz Gasket Type Rubber Heat Transfer System Mechanical Q Factor (Qms) 3.84 Mounting Depth 170mm Moving Mass (Mms) 171.9g Net Weight 15.4 lbs (6.3g) Nominal Impedance Dual 3§Ù Overload Protection System Peak Excursion (Xmax) 11.3mm Peak Power 1,200(W) Piston Area (Sd) .05(sq.m) Reasonance Frequency (Fs) 45(Hz) Sensitivity 90/1/1db/W/m Speaker Terminals Gold-Plated Push Terminals Spider Type Super Linear Surround Material - Total Q Factor (Qts) 1 Voice Coil Diameter 65mm Voice Coil Inductance (Levc) 1.26(mH) Voice Coil Type Single Volume Acoustic Complicance (VAS) 26.6 liters/.94 cu. Ft. WARRANTY 1 - Year Parts & Labor Weight Of Magnet 62.7oz (1,780 g) Woofer Material

haemphyst wrote:

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What the hell kinda woofers you got?

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stevdart wrote:

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  haemph, that's some funny stuff.

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kenwoodman, in all this discussion I think I've lost track of what you think your problem is.  This started out with you trying to get the best out of your system, right?  Did you go through the instructions and suggestions and carefully set everything properly?  If so and you don't like the results, then the only thing you can really do is get rid of those speakers and buy something better.  Throwing a cheap (crap) amp at it will not help - Pyle is almost literally one of the worst brands you could choose.  If you don't like the sound of the Kenwood speakers then you need to get some decent subs.  Haem pointed you to an excellent choice, and there are many others.

If on the other hand you feel you are stuck with what you have, then all I can say is set it up properly and live with it.

First, using sentences with periods and capital letters would help people understand you.  This is not text messaging.

Second, don't worry about getting "close to the subs rms."  That does not really matter.

Third, Kenwood is a far better brand than Pyle.  The problem is you bought the wrong amp to go with your subs (or the wrong subs to match your amp.)   With the amp and subs you have, the best you can do is wire one sub to each channel, set your gain and crossovers properly and live with it.  The only other choice is to get a different amp (the Pyle is a HUGE step DOWN, don't do it!) or get different speakers.