transmission line sub
Printed From: the12volt.comForum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=104392
Printed Date: May 10, 2024 at 4:08 AM
Topic: transmission line sub
Posted By: teenkertoy
Subject: transmission line sub
Date Posted: May 01, 2008 at 5:18 AM
***** this is a work in progress and will be updated as I go *****
The goal of this thread is to document my all-out attempt to build a transmission line subwoofer, one of the most difficult yet rewarding enclosures. It's worth mentioning a thread started by aznboi3644 and the replies really intrigued me. I hope those interested in a TL box can learn from my experience. There is very limited knowledge on how to properly build one, this is no simple sealed box we're talking about! Nevertheless, here we go.
Design goals:
- frequency response from 20hz to 60hz at +-3db
- response must blend seamlessly into component speakers up front, including cabin gain
- high efficiency woofer and enclosure to minimize amp power
- class D amplifier for high efficiency, low heat, small size, and small power cables
- installation must be clean, and enclosure must be production quality
Steps taken:
- measure cabin gain of my vehicle and graph it
- design hypothetical subwoofer to compliment measured cabin gain
- select high efficiency woofer with low Fs to help achieve goal of 20hz and low power requirements
- select amplifier to compliment the woofer in power rating and crossover frequencies
- research to find useful information about building the transmission line (won't be easy!)
- design transmission line with cabin gain, woofer properties, and physical limitations in mind
- build enclosure striving for production quality
- install amp and enclosure, again striving for top quality
- last, measure frequency response, and celebrate!
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A subwoofer sitting on the shelf in a store will sound different when installed in your car, and it will sound completely different if sitting out in the open or in an anechoic chamber. Ever notice how subwoofers in an electronics store are usually contained in a small room you have to walk into in order to listen to them (hint hint)? The interior shape and size of your car, the materials used to build the car, and any stuff you have inside it will affect the frequency response of the subwoofer. Each car is unique in this respect, and so is every dining room for home theater installations (my other hobby). This effect is called cabin gain.
To measure how my car will affect the response of my transmission line, I needed to run a few tests. First, I placed my home theater sub (a Bowers & Wilkins ASW600) on a chair in my backyard, careful to make sure it was not near any large walls or objects that might alter the response. Then I played test tones and measured the response of the sub out in the open, which is as close as I can get to an anechoic chamber which is what all enclosure simulation and calculating software assumes. Then I repeated the test placing my ASW600 sub in my car facing rearward like I plan the transmission line to.
I used a Belar spectrum analyzer connected to the best microphone I could find for this test. It is a Sennhieser 421 which has a frequency response rated down to 30hz, the lowest I can get my hands on. This is important to remember, any values below 30hz must be accepted with a grain of salt, they are not as accurate as the higher frequencies. There is a microphone preamplifier between the Sennhieser and the Belar, which should be transparent to these tests. The mic was placed one foot in front of the woofer in my backyard, and was sitting on a small mic stand in my front seat when the sub was in my car. After many attempts both inside the car and out, waiting for the wind to die down and averaging the data over many minutes, I came up with the following two graphs.
And here's the result I was looking for. This is simply the difference of the two lines in the previous graph, and it shows how my vehicle affects the frequency response of a sub.
So, what does this all mean? Looking at the first graph first, the sub placed in my backyard has a fairly gentle roll off from about 55hz and lower. When placed inside my car the response peaks sharply at about 55hz and rolls off in both directions. The data I want from this test is in the second graph. Other than a peak at 28hz, there is a rise of 8db from 20hz to 60hz. The slope from 60hz and up can be disregarded because I will have a low-pass filter on the amplifier anyhow. Good to know! Now I can keep this in mind going forward, to make sure my transmission line compliments the cabin gain of my car.
Replies:
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 01, 2008 at 5:19 AM
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 01, 2008 at 6:09 AM
Lets start with a picture.
Or not, I'm not sure what the issue is, I can't see the picture on my preview window here. Anyhow, what I'm trying to show is the measured cabin gain, and the response of a hypothetical sub I want to build. From 20 to 60hz, the cabin gain increases by 8db. So my sub would have to decrease by 8db in order to have a flat response when installed in the car.
Having such a low frequency peak and roll off on the high side is not easy to do when building a sub, and very difficult with a sealed or vented enclosure. A bandpass might be able to, but would need a resonant frequency terribly low and the enclosure would grow huge in size. The transmission line however, can extend the response of a woofer well below it's resonant frequency, and be really efficient while doing it. Have you ever heard of a single 4" woofer achieve response down to 35hz!? It's been done, there are a few examples here and here So, expecting a response down to 20hz from a 10" woofer should be no problem, if properly designed!
On the subject of cabinet size, it has to fit in my car. I'd like to not sacrifice all of my cargo room for the box, but I know to do this properly will require a decent amount of space. The box must also be removable in case I need the cargo room. After taking measurements in the rear cargo area of my Jeep behind the back seats, I came up with the following: 34" wide, 33" deep, and as short as possible. The height of the box will be influenced mostly by the woofer choice, how large the woofer is, and the internal volume I need for the transmission line. Thus, the height will be a variable I can play with if I need more or less volume for the transmission line.
So there we have it. The hypothetical subwoofer will be 34" by 33" and some unknown height, removable, and have a frequency response that peaks around 20hz and slops downward towards 60hz. Of course it must also be production quality and look beautiful. On to the next step.
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Malcom: "This is the captain. We have a...little problem with our engine sequence, so we may experience some slight turbulence and then...explode."
Jayne: "We're gonna explode? I don't wanna explode.
Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: May 01, 2008 at 12:14 PM
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: May 01, 2008 at 12:50 PM
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: May 01, 2008 at 1:17 PM
That's why the best way to "tune' a TL enclosure, in my opinion, is to install it with an open line (whether in room or in car) set up your test gear and RTA and start stuffin'. 
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Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 01, 2008 at 2:54 PM
Posted By: jmelton86
Date Posted: May 01, 2008 at 6:05 PM
Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: May 01, 2008 at 9:02 PM
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 02, 2008 at 4:36 AM
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: May 02, 2008 at 12:34 PM
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 02, 2008 at 3:15 PM
Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: May 02, 2008 at 3:19 PM
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: May 02, 2008 at 3:34 PM
Dude! Count me in! (You have PM) Better hurry! It's never as easy putting things together as you think they will be!
IIRC, my Fs is right about 24Hz. It goes respectably down to that, but that IS with one 10 incher, too... I've never been able to even REMOTELY call it an output monster, it ain't that, at all... Flat, articulate, and deep, though...
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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
IIRC, my Fs is right about 24Hz. It goes respectably down to that, but that IS with one 10 incher, too...
I've never been able to even REMOTELY call it an output monster, it ain't that, at all... Flat, articulate, and deep, though...-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 03, 2008 at 5:39 AM
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 04, 2008 at 4:11 AM
Efficiency of a woofer is measured in decibels (db), and the industry standard is 1 watt / 1 meter. This means put one watt of power through the woofer and place a microphone one meter from the front. The signal being played is often not mentioned, but it could be a reference 1khz tone or most anything else imaginable so long as the amplifier is putting out 1watt of power.
The decibel scale is a little like the Richter scale, in that the energy increases exponentially with respect to the reading. On the Richter Scale, a 4.0 earthquake releases 1,000 times the energy of a 2.0 earthquake. The decibel scale however, doubles every +-3db. So a reading of 6db is twice as great as 3db, just the same as 87db is twice as great as 84. If you think about competitions where cars are putting out 140db and higher, it's humbling to think about your "rig" that can sustain 120db !
On top of efficiency, I want to find a woofer with a low Fs, the resonant frequency of the speaker. The lower this number is, the lower I can tune the enclosure and the easier it will be to reach my goal of 20hz. This concept is true of all enclosures I know of, but don't let this number be the only thing you consider. Afterall, it's just a number.
With that in mind, I began to look at 10" woofers within my price range, and about 300-400w power handling to match the amplifiers I have in mind. Using such sites as crutchfield, woofersetc, sonicelectronics, and tons of reading forums like this one for user reviews, I found a few to choose from:
RMS / Fs / db
Alpine Type-R 500 / 31 / 83
Boston G210 300 / 37 / 83
Eclipse SW8000 625 / 18 / ??
Infinity Kappa 102.7w 350 / 20 / 89
Infinity Perfect 10dvc 400 / 25 / 90
JBL Power 400 / 34 / 92
JL 10W3v3 500 / 31 / 85
Kicker 08 S10 L52 450 / 33 / 86
Rockford Fosgate P3 400 / 29 / 83
The Alpine, although highly reviewed, has miserable efficiency compared to the others. I would have to use 4x the wattage to match the Infinity or JBL. Same goes for the Boston, Rockford, and Eclipse since I can't find the rating. The JL and Kicker were hard to find at much less than retail price, so I scratched them as being too expensive. The JBL's Fs was way too high compared to the Infinity's, so scratch it too. This leaves the two Infinity woofers. The Perfect is their top-end and more expensive, but does not offer me anything except a few more watts and negligible efficiency. The Kappa is easy to get for less than retail, has a stunning Fs of 20hz, great efficiency, the power handling I was looking for, it's highly reviewed everywhere I look. I might add, it's beautiful in a not everything has to be chrome and shinny kind of way.
Sweet, $112 shipped.
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Malcom: "This is the captain. We have a...little problem with our engine sequence, so we may experience some slight turbulence and then...explode."
Jayne: "We're gonna explode? I don't wanna explode.
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 04, 2008 at 4:15 AM
I figured out why I couldn't post an image earlier. The system doesn't like images with hyphens in their name. So, here is the image I wanted to put up for step 2, on the bottom of the first page.
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Malcom: "This is the captain. We have a...little problem with our engine sequence, so we may experience some slight turbulence and then...explode."
Jayne: "We're gonna explode? I don't wanna explode.
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 04, 2008 at 4:46 AM
Power ratings are very often misunderstood. To skip a big rant on my part, lets just summarize that RMS power ratings are good, and MAX power ratings are bad. Also, pay attention to the impedance listed right after the wattage. If your amp can do 1kw at 1ohm but you only have one woofer at 4ohms, then you're screwed and wind up with 250w being used. Always match impedance of the woofer(s) and the amplifier.
Crossover frequencies however, are really simple. I want a low-pass filter, which skims away all the high frequency signal and leaves me with just the low frequencies. From the measurements in earlier steps and experience with home theater, I know I want my crossover to be set in the 45hz to 55hz range, so I need to find an amp that can filter this low.
Also, I know that certain designs like the transmission line and the bandpass enclosures have a tendency to blow up woofers if they are overdriven below the system's resonant frequency, much more easily than other boxes. This is often called unloading, where the woofer is no longer encountering resistance to it's movement from the air pressure. The only force restraining it at these frequencies is the surround and the spider materials, not the big cushion of air like in a sealed box. To counter this, I'll find an amplifier that has a subsonic filter to roll-off the frequencies below 20hz or so. Frequencies below about 30hz are often called subsonic and the consumer is often misled to believe these are "bad" or "useless" because we can't hear them. I like to think the opposite.
When you experience music or movies that have sub-30hz material, there is a certain realism that shines. It's like in Jurassic Park when the T-Rex is first introduced in the movie. He doesn't make a big roar, and the characters don't really know what they're hearing when he is approaching. The big clue is the glass of water vibrating with each foot step. The audio is felt, not heard, this is what I want!
So using the websites mentioned above with reviews, I narrowed it down to the following amps:
RMS@4 RMS@2 Subsonic
Alpine MRP-500 300 500 15 hz
Eclipse XA1000 320 480 18 hz
Kenwood KAC8104 300 500 15/25
McItosh MCC301M 300 600 20/28
All four of them have exactly what I'm looking for, and match the woofer I choose in power handling (350w RMS). I will run the woofer in 4ohm mode so the 4ohm power rating is what I'm looking at. All of these amps also have a great subsonic filter just below 20hz. I was looking at JL amps however, and their subsonic filters are set at 30hz !? For such such quality products, I cannot for the life of me figure out why they set the filters so high.
Anyhow, the first one of these four I found at a decent price was a used Eclipse XA1000. The McIntosh was tough to find, and they were usually quite expensive : )
Awesome, $85 shipped.
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Malcom: "This is the captain. We have a...little problem with our engine sequence, so we may experience some slight turbulence and then...explode."
Jayne: "We're gonna explode? I don't wanna explode.
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 04, 2008 at 5:25 AM
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 05, 2008 at 3:51 AM
Lets start with Martin J. King's worksheet and inputting the theile-small parameters for my woofer. These numbers are found on the manufacturer's website and detail how a woofer will perform mathematically and are imperative for a good simulation.
His worksheet does not deal with dual voice coil woofers unfortunately. Because I'm wiring my coils in series, I will double the Re and Lvc values when putting them into the worksheet. King agrees with this concept, but has only worked with single voice coil woofers and is not absolutely sure. Hopefully in the measuring phase I can see if this was a good idea or not.
Note: Fd = Fs, Vad = Vas, Qed = Qes, Qmd = Qms, Qtd = Qts
The next step is to set the transmission line length, taper if any, and stuffing if any. This required a LOT of guess-and-check to figure out how the values effect the frequency response of the system. In this step, I was trying to construct the frequency response of my hypothetical subwoofer from step two on the first page. Remember it needs to hit -3db by 20hz, and gradually roll-off by 8db as it approaches 60hz. The dimensions must also be no greater than 34" x 33" and some unknown height to adjust for internal volume.
After some quick drawings, I guesstimated I could put 120" of length inside my enclosure and still have it fit within my cargo area comfortably. So that is the length I started with, and coincidently, the length I ended with.
The tapered line tends to be most popular, because it will allow the shortest line at any given resonant frequency. This means you put the woofer at the large end of a tube and taper the other end into a smaller area, much like a reverse horn but linear rather than exponential. Lots of people have had success with a ratio of between 2:1 and 4:1, so I started with these and kept massaging the numbers little by little. Eventually I settled on a 2.1 : 0.7 ratio. These ratios are based on the surface area of the woofer I'm using, 339cm^2.
This is very similar to the 3:1 ratio which I loved, but the internal volume required is more in line with the space I have available. Below is the frequency response curve of the box I plan to build. Not shown here is an impedance vs. frequency graph which shows the system's resonant frequency is at 22hz. The graph below shows much of what I am trying to achieve. The -3db point is in the very low 20's, there is a roll-off going towards 60hz, and for 1-watt of power the system is really efficient.
note: the red line is my box, the blue line is an infinite baffle with the same woofer for comparison. Notice how much more efficient the enclosure is? For the range I'm using, it's about 6db higher meaning 4x the output!
There are dozens of graphs and ways to pull data from these worksheets and I don't want to cover them all, but there is one more I am interested in. Will my woofer be moving enough air to make a hissing noise as it passes through the tapered opening? (the terminus) To find out, we can simply scroll down a few pages to find this graph. The recommended highest air velocity is 10m/sec, and this box is close but definitely under the threshold.
So there we have it. I need to build a box with 120" length of transmission line, with a taper ratio of 2.1 : 0.7 of the surface area of the woofer. The line must be folded into a box of 34" x 33" and 10.5" tall to house the woofer. The internal volume should be about 170 liters. It would be nice to have access to the entire length of the line so I can tune by adding stuffing later on.
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Build pics, dimensions, and everything else to follow. The carpet will be glued on tomorrow morning, and the amplifier is arriving in the mail early this week.
-Justin
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Malcom: "This is the captain. We have a...little problem with our engine sequence, so we may experience some slight turbulence and then...explode."
Jayne: "We're gonna explode? I don't wanna explode.
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: May 05, 2008 at 8:38 AM
Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: May 05, 2008 at 1:19 PM
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: May 05, 2008 at 2:19 PM
Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: May 05, 2008 at 8:57 PM
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 06, 2008 at 2:09 AM
Posted By: whiterob
Date Posted: May 06, 2008 at 2:47 AM
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 06, 2008 at 3:51 AM
Using excel, for no other reason than convenience, I began the layout of the enclosure. The picture is the internal dimensions, and each square is one inch. The blue line is the audio path, which came out to nearly 120" as planned. The height of the box internally is 10.5", just a bit larger than the woofer itself. Should be a tight fit!
Home Depot was nice enough to cut the wood for me, but I would later find out their saw is not square, curses! Here the box is assembled and glued together, but the top will not fit because none of the top edges are square and will result in massive air leakage. A belt sander and a little while later though, everything was flush and ready to get the top glued on. I added some polyfill at this point, to get a constant density of 0.25 lb/ft^3. There is some screen door fabric inside the line to keep the fiber from spilling out the end.
There are a dozen screws along the top surface that helped sandwich it and the vertical pieces together despite all the sanding. I knew it wouldn't be absolutely perfect and wanted to make sure it was touching on all surfaces. The salt and pepper carpet not only hides the screws but also make the box look like a real enclosure, I'm starting to become giddy at this point! Here's a tip for rolling the carpet over the edge and forming a tight inside corner, like in the photo: use a tool with a wheel on the end. I used one designed for tucking in the rubber rings on screen windows, and it made all the difference in the world.
The carpet is coming along nicely, except I don't know how to make the seam where two edges meet look decent. The best I can do is put the seam on the bottom of the box. It's clearly visible in the photo, but doesn't look bad once it's turned over.
She's done! She's also a bit overweight and I need help to move her haha. I can't help but notice the big empty space between the terminus and the woofer. I'd love to put a big Infinity logo there, but not sure exactly how to make one. Or maybe some abstract art, I'm just not sure. Oh well, a project for another day.
Also, the amplifier arrived in the mail today. It was a steal! The guy selling it posted pictures with moderate "scratches" all over the face and sides. Turns out these are simply sticky gunk and cleaned off easily. Not that it matters though, since it'll be under my back seat and out of view.
-Justin
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Malcom: "This is the captain. We have a...little problem with our engine sequence, so we may experience some slight turbulence and then...explode."
Jayne: "We're gonna explode? I don't wanna explode.
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 06, 2008 at 3:57 AM
Posted By: boogeyman
Date Posted: May 06, 2008 at 8:28 AM
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: May 06, 2008 at 12:14 PM
I'm excited FOR you, except I aim more towards .5 pounds per cubic foot... I think your Fs is going to be a bit higher than planned with that light a stuffing density. Until you know the results, be careful of unloading... It might happen higher than expected.
I also stuff heavier toward the woofer, and taper the density toward the terminus end, and AVERAGE .5 pounds per cube, throughout the enclosure. (The way I would approach this would be (with your enclosure - with 4 sections) .75 for the first section, .5 for the second, .25 for the third, and nothing in the 4th...) This seems to offer the best overall response, with the best smoothing on the output. I can only thing that any minute turbulences (wind noises, if you will) induced by the stuffing isn't quite so audible with this method.
Yes, I have found the 1:3 ratio really works well. I have also found that adding a few thin dowels across the line helps quite a bit in preventing stuffing "sag", but generally speaking, it's NOT a huge issue with poly-fill. Acousta-Stuff can settle a little bit, and benefits from this treatment. Long-fiber wool DEFINITELY needs the dowels, but LFW will also provide the BEST results acoustically speaking, at the greatest expense.
That XA1000 is gonna be a perfect match, I'm thinking!
VERY NICE WORK!!! I might be in SJ this weekend! I'll keep you posted! (And seeing yours, I may just be rebuilding mine, soon... Thanks. (Be sure you get the sarcasm there...)) 3 feet square, huh? My first one was that big; built for two Infinity Pro-12's, heavily stuffed, and damped with 300 pounds of sand! LOL Don't talk to ME about "overweight"!
I like the idea of the Dynamat under the carpet... Very slick, boogeyman!
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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
I also stuff heavier toward the woofer, and taper the density toward the terminus end, and AVERAGE .5 pounds per cube, throughout the enclosure. (The way I would approach this would be (with your enclosure - with 4 sections) .75 for the first section, .5 for the second, .25 for the third, and nothing in the 4th...) This seems to offer the best overall response, with the best smoothing on the output. I can only thing that any minute turbulences (wind noises, if you will) induced by the stuffing isn't quite so audible with this method.
Yes, I have found the 1:3 ratio really works well. I have also found that adding a few thin dowels across the line helps quite a bit in preventing stuffing "sag", but generally speaking, it's NOT a huge issue with poly-fill. Acousta-Stuff can settle a little bit, and benefits from this treatment. Long-fiber wool DEFINITELY needs the dowels, but LFW will also provide the BEST results acoustically speaking, at the greatest expense.
That XA1000 is gonna be a perfect match, I'm thinking!
VERY NICE WORK!!! I might be in SJ this weekend! I'll keep you posted! (And seeing yours, I may just be rebuilding mine, soon... Thanks. (Be sure you get the sarcasm there...)) 3 feet square, huh? My first one was that big; built for two Infinity Pro-12's, heavily stuffed, and damped with 300 pounds of sand! LOL Don't talk to ME about "overweight"!
I like the idea of the Dynamat under the carpet... Very slick, boogeyman!
-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 07, 2008 at 2:12 AM
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 07, 2008 at 2:37 AM
I started with the power cable the same time as building the box because I had the materials and my cousin was around for free labor, so he did most of the wire running and taking the dash apart etc. It's really hard to see, but in the top left corner up against the body to the side of the battery is a small black box with a red button and red lever. This is a resettable fuse rated to 140amps. I got the idea from the broadcast vans we use at the radio station, they have similar (though much better quality) resettable fuses on all the battery related cables and I love the idea of being able to turn the power lead on/off at the flip of a switch, and not having to buy more fuses should I ever melt one.
I'm using the side post of the yellow top, which some people say to be careful about due to the internal wiring being inferior to the top posts and not able to handle much current. To that I say, hmph. It's supplying the 40'some'odd amps I need for the amp, so it's all good. You'll notice however I didn't attach my winch to the side posts : ) Also you'll see split loom covering the new 4ga. wire in the engine compartment and you won't see the cute rubber grommet in the firewall.
The next two photos are my cousin's handywork making a complete mess of my interior. Taking the dashboard apart to reach the power wire from the firewall, removing the rear seats and pulling up the carpet, and having a grand old time making a mess and cutting his fingers on everything sharp he can find.
Below is the final amplifier installation. The 4ga. power cable is going directly to it for now, but I plan to add a distribution block at some point in the future to power the amp for the components, which also need replacing. Especially after this install, the components I have are sticking out like a sore thumb! Damn they sound bad...
The last photo is what this project is all about. The transmission line is sitting happily in my cargo area, perfectly nestled against the spare tire and the wheel well, and between the rear seat and the molding along the floor. It ain't going anywhere! And I have to add, it's damn beautiful. The picture doesn't really do it justice because the project was finished too late at night and I had to use a flash : (
So where do I go from here? I wait for haemphyst to bring his laptop and TrueRTA gear up here for some measurements! I'd use mine but it was in my toolbag which was stolen a few weeks ago, curses!
Seriously though, I'll use the belar spectrum analyzer I had earlier and check the response again. From there I can better tune the amplifier's crossover, but right now it's pretty darn close. I'm also beginning to read the many stickies about building a good front sound stage and proper mid-bass etc etc. That should be another fun little project, but that'll have to be another day.
I'll keep playing around with what I have and post some results Soon™.
-Justin
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Malcom: "This is the captain. We have a...little problem with our engine sequence, so we may experience some slight turbulence and then...explode."
Jayne: "We're gonna explode? I don't wanna explode.
Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: May 07, 2008 at 2:55 AM
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 07, 2008 at 3:47 AM
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: May 08, 2008 at 10:39 AM
So... How's it sound? 
We're all waiting!
Forgot about the wife's birthday this weekend, (can you see me missing THAT? God help us all!) so I won't be there THIS week, but next week is a VERY much stronger possibility! That'll give you a little time to break things in! When I get up there, I'll be sure to bring my laptop, mic and mic pre-amp, tripod, soundcards, cables, and have the software all ready to go!
Looking forward to it!
By the way, that's a REALLY sharp looking install! (Except that dash...
)
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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
We're all waiting!
Forgot about the wife's birthday this weekend, (can you see me missing THAT? God help us all!) so I won't be there THIS week, but next week is a VERY much stronger possibility! That'll give you a little time to break things in! When I get up there, I'll be sure to bring my laptop, mic and mic pre-amp, tripod, soundcards, cables, and have the software all ready to go!
Looking forward to it!
By the way, that's a REALLY sharp looking install! (Except that dash...
)-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 09, 2008 at 12:06 AM
Posted By: chillin420
Date Posted: May 09, 2008 at 6:46 PM
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 09, 2008 at 7:08 PM
Posted By: chillin420
Date Posted: May 09, 2008 at 7:17 PM
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 09, 2008 at 11:27 PM
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: May 10, 2008 at 12:30 AM
Posted By: chillin420
Date Posted: May 10, 2008 at 12:07 PM
Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: May 10, 2008 at 10:29 PM
Posted By: teenkertoy
Date Posted: May 11, 2008 at 3:16 AM