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component system rms wattage?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=104773
Printed Date: April 25, 2024 at 8:08 AM


Topic: component system rms wattage?

Posted By: klctexas
Subject: component system rms wattage?
Date Posted: May 16, 2008 at 7:58 AM

   Lets say you have a component system that is rated at 100w rms. Does this mean that the individual drivers can only take 50w rms each? or does this mean that they can take 100w rms each? The reason I ask is because I want to know how much power I can safely put to my components (kicker ks6.5) if I were to run them actively. Thanks

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Soldier: This is the worst part. The calm before the battle.
Fry: And then the battle is not so bad?
Soldier: Oh, right. I forgot about the battle.



Replies:

Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: May 16, 2008 at 8:18 AM
If the system is rated at 100 watts, then each side (using the supplied crossover) will handle 100 watts.  If you want to bi-amp and use an active system, the first thing you need to understand is the designed crossover point and slope for the tweeter.  Then you can use 100 watts for the woofer and about 25 watts for the tweeter.

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Posted By: klctexas
Date Posted: May 16, 2008 at 8:27 AM
     I think my slope is +/- 12dB, and the crossover point is 4.0kHz. Why exactly do I need to know this if I want to go active?

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Soldier: This is the worst part. The calm before the battle.
Fry: And then the battle is not so bad?
Soldier: Oh, right. I forgot about the battle.




Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: May 16, 2008 at 9:21 AM
Here's a recent thread...

Using the supplied crossver point of 4K, about 85% of the power goes to the woofer, and about 15% goes to the tweeter. The SYSTEM is rated at 100 watts, so, by the above math, you likely have a 75 to 100 watt woofer, and the tweeter is likely rated 15 to 25 watts.

NO manufacturer will give you a 100 watt tweeter, if all they are ever expecting it to get is 15 watts or so.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: May 16, 2008 at 9:58 AM

klctexas wrote:

     I think my slope is +/- 12dB, and the crossover point is 4.0kHz. Why exactly do I need to know this if I want to go active?

Why?  Because you need to match the original design with your active crossover.



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Posted By: dudehitt
Date Posted: May 17, 2008 at 1:28 AM

If you match the original crossover design when you go active, what have you gained?

I guess a little volume, and the ability to apply time alignment separately, but it seems that they would sound the same as the passive setup.





Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: May 17, 2008 at 8:08 AM
You have gained driver control, dynamics, far more accurate gain capabilities, true phase (lack pf passive phase shift), bypassing of the distortion causing passive components in the crossover...

MANY things are gained by going all active. Come sit in my car, and then ask what *I* gained...

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: dudehitt
Date Posted: May 17, 2008 at 8:33 AM
I wish I could sit in your car.  I'm new to all this, unless you count adding 6x9's to a VW bug in 1988.  So even with a very good component set there is a big difference with going active.  I bought a PDX-4.150 (because of you) with the idea of either going active or adding another component set some time in the future.  First I need to save up for the CD7200 and get rid of my stock radio.




Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: May 17, 2008 at 8:52 AM

haemph wrote:

You have gained driver control, dynamics, far more accurate gain capabilities

I think these advantages are among the most pronounced here.

dudehitt wrote:

So even with a very good component set there is a big difference with going active

haemph actually got me up and running under an active 2-way back in the day - I can't underscore the improvements here enough.

For me, I'm really sensitive to sibilance and bright sound, so being able to have complete control over tweeter volume provides a HUGE tonal improvement over EVERY single matched componet system i've EVER heard.

With good driver selection (i.e, not kicker posted_image) and xover points, the tuning possibilities are ENDLESS.

Go for it dude.



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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview




Posted By: klctexas
Date Posted: May 18, 2008 at 12:52 AM
Right, I was amazed at how much better my components sounded then the old coaxials I had, and they are not even high end components, more like entry to mid level components (kicker KS 6.5" components). Although, I do have my tweeters installed pretty good, I get great imaging with them, but I need to seal and deaden my doors for the mids, which will be coming this summer. Heres a link to my install for them.

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Soldier: This is the worst part. The calm before the battle.
Fry: And then the battle is not so bad?
Soldier: Oh, right. I forgot about the battle.




Posted By: dudehitt
Date Posted: May 18, 2008 at 7:41 AM
I've got Morel Dotech Ovation 6 components on 2 channels of a PDX-4.150 running off the stock Scion radio and it sounds great (to my uneducated ears) with no deadening in the doors or anything.  I was originally going to run a RF 360.2, but then the CD7200 came out.  Of course the half-fiberglass box build, wiring, and the sudden availability of some color-matched headlights and taillights blew my car budget, so I'm waiting impatiently for someone to drop a load of cash in my lap.





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