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box spec, wire, and amp 01 neon

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=105181
Printed Date: May 15, 2025 at 2:38 PM


Topic: box spec, wire, and amp 01 neon

Posted By: bullseye753
Subject: box spec, wire, and amp 01 neon
Date Posted: June 01, 2008 at 7:25 PM

ok. heres the deal. I drive an 01 neon and had a decent begginer system. two 12" RF punch's with matching amp (came as a package w/ sealed box). so 300w roughly. had dimming lights so i bought a .5 farad cap. had it for about a year and a half and came home from college and my amp worked for a little (about a week) then stopped. at the same time my h/u went out. i went to curcuit city where i got it installed and they said something was wrong with my amp which caused my h/u to blow a fuse.. something about the REM and my h/u using a converter b/c it does not have pre outs. can anyone explain this better?

Anyway.. he fixed my fuse and sent me on my way. now i have a blown amp and 2 unused subs.. which i can deal with b/c i was in the midst of upgrading.  I had/have 2 kicker l5's laying in my room, and my amp just arrived in the mail; a hifonics titan txi 1000d.  I really would not like to make the mistake of blowing anything this time, so do you think i should get a new headunit that has pre outs? If not can someone explain how i can identify how to reconnect the REM, b/c he cut it behind my h/u and taped the wires.

All this jargon and talk was new to me and a little confusing, but i learned pretty fast from reading about it, which helped me buy my new amp.  the L5's are DVC and 4 ohm.. so if i wire one to the amp in parallel it will be 2 ohms correct? which my amp puts out 700w at. And if i wire 2 at parallel it becomes 1 ohm correct? which my amp puts out 1000w at. I am about to buy the wiring for it, and im going with 4awg.. i was going to go with 2awg but i honestly dont think it would fit in the amp terminals. Can anyone tell me what amp my inline fuse should be or how i can figure this out?

Next is the box. This is what I am not strong with (as with many aspects of this, you may be thinking):o).  I originally wanted to build my box.. but now im thinking against it.. problem is i cant find any dealers near me that sell them. Darn square subs! :-P and i dont want to buy them online cause shipping costs are outrageous! so maybe i will build one haha. But I'm not trying to build a half a$s one that sounds like trash. So any help with explaining hz and sizes and stuff? I feel it would be kind of patronizing the sub by putting it in a sealed box. and Yes i do want booming bass on the low frequencies but idk if i have the room for 2 vented or ported!! maybe one! also any help explaining where my lpf and subsonic should be set at on my amp? also the level and phase: never heard of these ones.

I hope this isnt too long that people dont want to respond! Any help would be great. I have a lot more to learn obviously.

I am very interested in this field, thats why i have spent hours over the past month reading about everything. And if it's not obvious im pretty much trying to install this myself.. money is not really in the picture, i guess it's more for the satisfaction.. i think ill enjoy it better knowing it was my work.  Im on this site to learn from you guys.. the more experienced ones.. i dont like having to rely on the installers.. which may be stubborn but i feel its the easy way out.



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Replies:

Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 01, 2008 at 9:54 PM

I have no idea what he is talking about with the Remote wire and the Line output converter causing your radio to blow a fuse.  You will get much better sound out of a radio with built in RCA connections.  

The remote wire from the radio needs to be connected to the remote terminal of the amp.  If the original wire was shorted to ground, that could be a problem, you need to check it before reconnecting it.

The inline fuse for a 4 Ga. wire can be 150 amps or smaller.  The wire is rated at 150 amps.  If you use the 2 Ga. I think it is rated at 225 amps, so it should be fused at 225 or lower.   Yes 2   4 Ohm voice coils paralleled is a 2 Ohm load.   And 4  4 Ohm coils paralleled yields a 1 Ohm load. 

Maybe somebody else can help you with ideas for the box.

It was long but I answered what I could.

Just remember, If you can find no way to get through the firewall, you may have to drill a hole and use a grommet.  Never run the wire over the fender and through the door closing.

Good Luck with the install.





Posted By: bullseye753
Date Posted: June 03, 2008 at 11:37 AM

ok well i spent about 2 hours out at my car last night.. pretty much redoing everything.

I found how to fix my remote wire.. so i reconnected it from where the guy cut it from my headunit.. still didnt power up my amp..

I sanded and found a new ground.. still no power..

there was some what looked like "burnt" wire before the inline fuse.. i dont know what it was from.. but i cut it out and reconnected the fuse. no power



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Posted By: techman93
Date Posted: June 03, 2008 at 2:15 PM
You need to test with a meter or test light (preferably a digital multi meter) to see if there is power going through your wire to the remote lead and main power source. If the ground is solid use that as a reference point for testing with a meter for resistance back to the battery negative terminal and it should have little or no resistance. If there is resistance, better find a new ground point.
Burnt wire is never a good sign.
Check fuses on amp and the one in the inline fuse holder.

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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya





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