series/parralel 3 sub wiring

i understand how the wiring must be run for this, but im not sure that the components i want will work. i was planning on running 3 Power Acoustik MOFO-12 subs (2-ohm dual voice coil, 2400watt peak). also, when you wire in such a way, should the output of the amp be equal to all three subs combined or just what one is rated? i dont want to waste money on an amp that wont push enough, but i dont want to blow 3 subs in one shot either. if anyone can reccomend an amp that would work with this it would save me a bunch of time. thanks.

Use any mono amplifier.  RMS output of the amp should be anywhere close to the combined "continuous power handling" specs of the three subs.  For example, if each sub can handle 250 watts continuously, the amplifier should be able to output anywhere up to 1000 watts (spec'd at 2 ohms).  Above that (in real power), you should be very careful not to exceed the subs' capacity to handle the heat.  The type and size of their enclosures will have a lot to do with this.

(re  your sig):  In other words, don't take it to 11.

-------------
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

Thanks a lot for the advice. i have a few other questions i would like to get some answers to. ive installed sevral ordinary, single amp to low power subs before, nothing big though. now its time for my project. i have a 1977 Pontiac Ventura that i plan on doing this to. I want to put the 3 Power Acoustik MOFO-12's which RMS at 1200 watts each and peak at 2400. so a RMS total of 3600 watts. First off, the box. I was thinking of making a bandpass box (port along the bottom of box) that would hold all three. i know it would have to be large, and thats ok due to a large trunk. but would a bandpass box be the way to go? would ported be better? also, i plan on powering this with a Massive Audio P3000.1 amp (same wiring as above). The amp is rated for 3000watts @2OHMs, 6000 peak. a little under the subs. will this be acceptable? and how many, if any, additional batteries/what ampere alt would i need? i appreciate anyone with the patience to read this whole post and anyone with some insight for me.

1.  Unless you are building an SPL competition car, I never think a BP enclosure is the way to go.  Build a ported enclosure.

2.  I have no idea if that amp will actually perform anywhere near its rated specs, but as long as you set the gain properly you can literally use any amplifier with any speakers.

3.  Upgrade the big 3, and install the highest capacity alternator you can afford that will fit your vehicle.  Extra batteries are not necessary unless you plan to listen to the system for extended periods with the engine off.

Have fun!

-------------
Support the12volt.com

I'm continually amazed at the specs these car audio makers come up with.  Here is an earlier thread: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=88330

The subs are far generously overrated as well, but...that being said, it would be fine to pair them up as you plan.  Keep the subs wired to the 3 ohm impedance as illustrated in the previous post.

Plan to work on making a ported enclosure.  Tune to 40 Hz.  Make each chamber separate, with its own port (advised, but not mandatory).  Specs for loading into WinISD or other software:  https://www.poweracoustik.com/pa2006/product_AUDIO_wof_mofo.htm  unless you have something different that came along with the subs.

There are three distinct steps you must do.  1.  Plan and build the enclosure(s), as well as work out all details of amplifier wiring.  2.  Get a lot of damping and adhere it to the sheet metal of the vehicle while it is being prepared for the install.  3.  Use the Big 3 sticky as a guide and go carefully over the existing wiring in the engine bay.  You may need to add as little as an additional, larger gauge ground wire from battery to chassis.  Or, you may need to look into upgrading the alternator and adding associated wiring at larger gauge.  But damp the metal and build the system first....don't bite off too many chunks at once.

The subs really do require a vented box, but you should avoid tuning too low for these.  That's why 40 Hz is recommended by the maker.  Ensure that you have a subsonic filter on the amp, set to ~35 Hz.

-------------
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

thanks guys. like i said, this is a project car recieving a whole long list more than a system, and i was definately doing the big 3 regardless. you guys have been very helpful and i greatly appreciate it. im very glad i found this site. i read that thread on the amp, and was wondering if anyone can reccomend a better amp for under $1000 or so. also, i was considering entering SPL's but im not sure yet. any advice?

For reading about SPL comps on this forum, google jeffchilcott in the search window https://www.the12volt.com/

As you spend more time browsing the info found here, you will get a better sense on how to set your system up for comps.  You have to start somewhere, so just do it.

-------------
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.