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Ok, so I'm looking at purchasing my first EQ so I can tune my system a little bit. The only thing is I've never messed with one and don't really know what I need.

Here's what I currently have: Type-R 10" in a sealed box, Type-R 6x9's in the rear, a set of 6.5" components in the doors shortly, Alpine CDA-9856 HU, RF Punch 500a2 for the sub, and a RF Punch P450.4 for the speakers.

I'm not really sure what would suit me best at this point, whether it be a 4-, 7-, 10-band or more. Does anyone have any suggestions for within $100 price range, or any advice on how I should set this up? I know that I'd LOVE to get the RF 3sixty.2, or run the full Alpine digital setup...but that's way beyond the current scope of my system at this time.

I have been looking at two that are within the current budget; the RCA RCEQ769 and the Clarion EQS746 (they both look exactly the same). The only thing I can't figure out about them is how I'd run the inputs...my HU has 6 rca outs, and both EQs have 2 rca ins and 6 rca outs...do I just use y-cables to patch my front and sub HU outs together and lose deck fader control (which doesn't matter cause it's on the EQ)?

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

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2003 Chevy Cavalier coupe

Also, any opinions on the MA Audio MA15EQX?

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2003 Chevy Cavalier coupe

EQ's are great if you know how to use them properly. Most of the time it's just a "cool" factor for the average enthusiast. To get the most out of your eq, you really need to get your system tested with an RTA. The test will determine where your system is lacking and help you level it out.

For hook-up, you can do two things: One is forget the sub channel on the EQ and just use front and rear into the EQ, and keep your sub out on the deck hooked up to the sub-amp. The problem for this is of course it cuts out the entire EQ settings from your Bass channel. The other thing you can do, is run front and rear into the EQ and use the sub-out from the EQ. You won't have to use the Sub out from the deck at all. You just have to make sure that with this setup, your front and rear outputs are full range. Some decks when you turn on the sub-out, it puts a high-pass to the front and rear rca out's. Pioneer and Eclipse heads give you the option of turning on the high-pass to the front and rear outs.

All in all, if you need an EQ, stick with a solid unit, like the Clarion or the Eclipse EQ1000. If you need to get into the serious side of EQ's then check out the Audiosource and Eclipse EQ2102.

However, it all comes down to YOUR ride. If you want an EQ, by all means, throw one in, because it's you who is going to enjoy it everyday.

I definitely want an eq and I'm currently trying to find a local rta, or at least and spl mic with some pink noise tracks.

My deck does turn on a HP filter when the sub-out is on, and it doesn't have an option to turn it off. I most definitely want to eq my bass though, as that's one of the noticeable areas that need it. I'll probably grab the Clarion, as all of the rest of the ones I like are way above the budget (Audiocontrol EQS, Arc Audio EQX, and another one I forgot). I don't so much WANT an eq, as I hate hearing level differences in my bass and highs, so I feel that I NEED one.

Also, any suggestions on a 6.5 component set...I'm looking at the Infinty Perfects, Alpine Type-R, and Diamond D6's with the silk tweets. Nothing else has caught my eye (or ear) yet, though I haven't heard many of the more remote brands like Soundstream.

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2003 Chevy Cavalier coupe

lnhiv] wrote:

I don't so much WANT an eq, as I hate hearing level differences in my bass and highs, so I feel that I NEED one.

Also, any suggestions on a 6.5 component set...I'm looking at the Infinity Perfects, Alpine Type-R, and Diamond D6's with the silk tweets. Nothing else has caught my eye (or ear) yet, though I haven't heard many of the more remote brands like Soundstream.

Level differences? An EQ may not be able to help you with that. Please describe what you think you are hearing.

As far as component speakers, the first three you mention are fine, buy the ones you like the most. I cannot recommend speakers from Soundstream.

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The lower end of the bass (around 45hz) tapers off dramatically, which I'd like to bring back up. I'm guessing this is most likely due to my box; it sounds great when I listen to rock, but when I switch to r&b, electronica, hip hop, and bass tracks, it's just not right.

And there's something else...guitar riffs when they're switching chords just doesn't sound like it's playing the same db level. I'm thinking this is just my door speakers I have now (Infinity Ref 6.5's) and will be corrected mostly by the addition of a component set.

Either way, I'm at the point where I'd like to start actually tuning my system and I can't afford to go the digital route.

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2003 Chevy Cavalier coupe

You really cannot recover the first octave of bass with an EQ. Trying to do this by artificially boosting those levels will most likely lead to clipping amplifiers and fried voice coils. This issue is most likely caused by the natural roll-off of a sealed enclosure or that your type-r's simply cannot produce output that low. If you need more output below 50Hz, you probably need a different subwoofer system.

The second issue may be related to phase cancellation or off-axis issues, it's hard to say, but again it does not sound like anything an EQ could address.

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Well, you just shot my plans all to hell, lol. It is a 10" sub, so that's what I was guessing too. I wasn't aware that adjusting those levels could potentially harm my system, thank you for that piece of knowledge.

As to the second part, well, we'll see what happens once I drop in the comps.

Thank you very much for all your help...looks like I'll just re-evaluate once I get the comps in, and maybe suck it up and grab a different sub, too.

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2003 Chevy Cavalier coupe

Yea, an EQ is never the answer for adding something that is missing. They are useful for cutting what is over-emphasized. I'd say you simply have your subwoofer in the wrong enclosure for what you want. According to the Alpine owner's manual for a 10" Type R, in a sealed enclosure of around 0.75 cuft you can expect an F3 of around 50Hz, which means the output is falling off and is 3db down from peak at 50Hz. If you change it into a vented enclosure of around 1.3 cuft net, you can port it for an Fb (tuning frequency) of 35Hz, which will get you nice output down to around 30Hz. Not bad at all and should get you a lot more of the ultra-low-end you seek.

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So, I played with it some more, and found a couple things...one good, one bad.

I turned the eq frequency on my deck to 60hz, 2 wide, and bumped the bass one notch, and it was almost exactly what I want. Before I did this I noticed something very odd...it wasn't the frequencies that I wasn't hearing, it was that my subs simply weren't playing at all after about 15 mins of heavy bass music. Turns out my amp can't actually handle pushing 500w rms at 2 ohms (even though it's literally written on the bottom of it that it does, damn rockford).

I'm just gonna grab a new amp, some components and call it good until I can find an rta, then I'll grab an eq and really start playing around (hopefully by then I can afford to go digital). Again, thank you for all your help.

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2003 Chevy Cavalier coupe

Sure your amp can handle that, no problem. Sounds like you may have a setup issue if the amp is shutting down. What is the system voltage at the amp when it shut down? How did you set the gain?

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I'll measure the voltage in a little bit. The gain is set at 0 on the amp, I did everything through the HU (bass boosted like I said, and sub out boosted to +8 at max, usually +4). I haven't said this yet, but the box it's in is 1.4 cu ft. Either way, I went to check the gain when I got home, and the gain knob (aluminum) literally burned my fingertip when I touched it to check it.

I'll go play around for a little bit with the multimeter and see what happens.

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2003 Chevy Cavalier coupe

Didn't think it'd matter than much but thought I'd mention it anyways...I live in az, and it's about 105-110 degrees outside during the day and this is mounted on top of my box in the trunk, and I don't run ac usually.

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2003 Chevy Cavalier coupe

Under no load from the amp and sub, the system reads a fairly constant 13.8v with the car on. Under full load (max listening volume with sub-out set to 10) the system reads 13.6v +.1 -.3

When the amp went into thermal protection, the system read 13.8v again, then when it came back on, 13.6v.

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2003 Chevy Cavalier coupe

OK, so it's not a voltage issue. That's good. It is possible the amp cannot handle the extreme heat in AZ during the summer. Please read the how to set your gain sticky and make sure you have set it properly, but it should not be too hot to touch, so maybe it is simply overheating.

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Oh, and 1.4 cuft is for one woofer or two? If two, then it is a little small for a sealed enclosure, if one, then it is very large, and in fact you could port it if you want more low end output.

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It's for one woofer, but it sounds nice and smooth and clean. I had this sub previously in a good box built for a Qts of .707 (.9 somethin cu ft) and it just wasn't what I wanted out of the sub, so this box was kind of experimental, as it's only the second box I've ever built.

I'm gonna go back through probably tonight and retune it all again. Maybe I'll magically find the issue with the amp, lol.

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2003 Chevy Cavalier coupe

I meant to say Qtc.

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2003 Chevy Cavalier coupe

Here are some Unibox predicted output models in your 1.4 cuft (net) enclosure with a single 1042D @ 500watts, first is sealed, second is vented (ported at 30Hz.) I recommend porting your enclosure at 30Hz.

posted_image

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Ok, that's a huge vent...I'm just gonna stick with what I have for now...when I get my comps and I put in my second amp and amp rack I'll just build another box then. Probably in a couple months is when I'll be ready to do it, til then I'll just suffer without the bass.

Also, I went and downloaded unibox...that thing is awesome.

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2003 Chevy Cavalier coupe

Not such a huge vent... 4" X 23". Unibox is pretty accurate and easy to use. Not as powerful as WinISD, but a much shorter learning curve. Enjoy.

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Also, because of the extreme heat, make sure you let the amplifier cool off after long runs in the sun before you turn it on.

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2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001

Looks like when I screwed the box in place, I somehow hit the gain knob to about half. I turned it back down and re-tuned everything again...sounds good and haven't had any problems yet (used to take 10 mins to shut down and I've taken 30 min drives so far).

I try to let it cool down, but when you live in an oven, it doesn't do a whole lot, lol.

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2003 Chevy Cavalier coupe

When I had my car I used 3 box style fans I think they were 7" x 2" to help keep my amps cooler here in Tucson I only wish I would of had A/C so I could of piped some cold air over the amps they dont like our style of heat down here. lol

I live in Mesa...it's even worse down there, lol.

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2003 Chevy Cavalier coupe

So, last night on the way to work, it was still overheating, with the gain at around 20%...twice.

While at work it rained like a mofo and dropped to like 75-80 degrees outside...bumped it hard all the way home and once I got home...never went into protection.

Problem is officially diagnosed as the amp not having enough heat dissipation ability to handle AZ weather...what's worse is that RF is in AZ, and you'd think they would've thought of that...guess not.

Oh well, I'll just start saving for a new amp then. Now the question is this...Alpine MRP-M450 or M500?? same price, which one is more reliable or better suited (I'm assuming the M500, but I've only played around with the 450 so far).

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2003 Chevy Cavalier coupe

what kind of vehicle do you have? you should wire up some computer fans. and put them on your rear deck to blow cool air in from ac into your trunk. i did that when i was out in tempe. had same problem while i was going to school at mobile dynamics.

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you can do it....
advanced MECP, lol does it really matter....
patience is a virtue

I had a older fosgate power 500 that I had those 3 box fans on and if I startted to push it hard it would also shut down you need to find a way to get more air moving over the amp. I unbolted my rear seat so it could lay down so I was able to have more air flow. I also had no ac so I ran with the windows down as well, when I was really going to beat on the sub. The heat we have is just too much to beat on them with out any air flow. I could be wrong but throwing money at a new amp is not going to help you will still need some airflow to help out your amp or just play it at lower levels and not ask so much of your amp when it's not as hot here.

I have filters on the work putter so hopefully you can see it because all I get is a red x.

I was using 3 of these https://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/1331967/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046 posted_image

If your amp is in an open airspace, and has proper sized power and ground wiring, then you should just try allowing the amp to cool off before turning it up. I do anyways. I wait until I go down the road about 5miles before even turning my system on -in the summer (SC).

Seriously, if it's getting that hot sitting in the car, then the next one will, too. You said it yourself that it's fine when cool.

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2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001

my first eq