what caused amp to go into protect mode?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=107372
Printed Date: July 02, 2025 at 8:59 PM
Topic: what caused amp to go into protect mode?
Posted By: 280ZWarrior
Subject: what caused amp to go into protect mode?
Date Posted: September 11, 2008 at 9:56 AM
General Information
Amp: RF bd1000.1
subs: RF 12" HX2 (2)
Headunit: Stock (2005 Mercury Mariner Premier)
Issue
I just hooked this system up and it was working fine for about 1 day until I popped the fuse. I changed it only to find my amp in "protect" mode. I cannot get it out of this mode. There is no sound from the subs.
Questions
I used a line output converter off the signal from the stock sub. Is this too much signal that it blew the channel in the amp?
Is it possible I blew the line out converter?
I'm using a smaller amp fuse in the power line. Can this cause my amp to go into protect? I'm using a 40amp when I used to use 60amp
What I've Tried
I tried to run the remote signal straight off the battery and that did not help. Thought the voltage was too low.
I disconnected the amp overnight to try to "reset" it. That did not work.
There is no fuse on/in the amp. So I can't change that.
Any insight will be greatly appreciated. The subs get power. They "pop" when I turn my headunit on.
Thanks,
Mike
Replies:
Posted By: Steven Kephart
Date Posted: September 11, 2008 at 10:24 AM
It sounds like your amplifier died. But first, try disconnecting the speaker leads and see if it still goes into protect. If so, then there is something wrong with the amplifier. If not, then the issue lies elsewhere.
Posted By: 280ZWarrior
Date Posted: September 11, 2008 at 10:53 AM
Thanks Steve. I have tried disconnecting the speaker wires. It stays in protect mode. I have another one of these amps...I just don't want to fry that one too if it is related to taking the output lead from the stock subwoofer after the stock amp. Maybe the signal is too strong.
Posted By: megaman
Date Posted: September 11, 2008 at 11:49 AM
If the signal was too strong from your LOC then you're gain adjustment would be all the way down on the amplifier. If, however, you have the gain turned up, then, if you followed the "setting your gains" thread, your amp most likely died. You should also power up the amp with the RCA's unplugged at the amplifier as well. If it still goes into protect with the RCA's and speakers unplugged at the amp, then your amp took a dive.
Posted By: Steven Kephart
Date Posted: September 12, 2008 at 1:13 AM
280ZWarrior wrote:
Thanks Steve. I have tried disconnecting the speaker wires. It stays in protect mode. I have another one of these amps...I just don't want to fry that one too if it is related to taking the output lead from the stock subwoofer after the stock amp. Maybe the signal is too strong.
I highly doubt the problem is caused from the signal input. I've installed quite a few sub amps the same way you describe and have never had a problem. I think your amplifier just died. External causes if any are more likely to come from a wiring issue on the power input or the speaker output (possibly in conjunction with improper amplifier settings). You can still try out your other amplifier. Just make sure you have a good power and ground source that's sufficient for the amount of draw the amplifier has, and test the speaker wiring to make sure there isn't a direct short or you're running too low of an impedance. And finally follow the amplifier gain setting on this site and turn off any bass boosts and you should be back up and running.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: September 12, 2008 at 1:36 AM
Most protection lights should be labeled: It's too late to save your amp. Chances are you have one or more shorted output transistors. These are not easy to replace in that particular amplifier. The light is on because the amp knows the output is shorted and it is Protecting the power supply from extensive damage. If you insist on trying to repair it, you will need a Meter, a soldering iron, a 20 dollar butane powered torch from Radio Shack. (Before you go off on my choice of torches, I own 3 Snap-On torches, 2 of the YAS-1 and one small one. The torch from RadShack is a superior tool.) A can of butane. Some solder, and 3 each IRF-3415, IRF-6215 Mosfet transistors.
Let me know if you decide to repair it.
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