ultra linear ul600hc current draw

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=107956
Printed Date: May 18, 2024 at 4:19 AM

Topic: ultra linear ul600hc current draw

Posted By: tndrsprttalon
Subject: ultra linear ul600hc current draw
Date Posted: October 05, 2008 at 11:24 PM

This is all I have been able to find: 2 x 300W RMS @ 4 Ohm Stereo
2 x 500W RMS @ 2 Ohm Stereo
2 x 1000W RMS @ 1 Ohm Stereo
2 x 1200W RMS @ 0.5 Ohm Stereo
1 x 3000W MAX @ 1 Ohm Bridged

I have a 2006 Dodge Stratus, I am upgrading the subwoofers from 10" Kenwood Excelon Kenwood KFC-XW1012DVC to Audiobahn 10" AW1008T 1000 watt rms. I have picked up a refurbished UL600HC with the casing a bit beat up.

I am currently in the process of upgrading the big 3. ( I now know how to do this thanks to this site ) I have found pros and cons for this amp. I have heard it in action and I feel that this amp will be what I am looking for.

What kind of draw will this amp have on my system? I have not been able to find anything relating to this and I am hoping that somone can help me here. Thank you in advance for any help

Replies:

Posted By: lnhiv
Date Posted: October 06, 2008 at 1:22 AM

Amps = Watts/Voltage

Most cars have a voltage of 13.2-13.8 while running, and around 12v while not running. So assuming you're running that sub at rms (1000w), you'd be drawing at most 83 amps (at 12v while off), and around 76 amps while running at 13.2v. Assuming your vehicle's electrical system is in good working order you should be able to run it with just doing the big 3 and maybe a different battery if you plan on running it with your car off for a length of time.

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2003 Chevy Cavalier coupe

Posted By: tndrsprttalon
Date Posted: October 06, 2008 at 7:29 AM

Thank you that has been looking me in the eye for 2 weeks now.

Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: October 06, 2008 at 7:43 AM

The above formula does not take the efficiency of the amp into consideration. If it is a class A/B amp you need to divide that number by (.)6 to get a close estimate. Class D divide by (.)85 to get a close estimate.

Posted By: tndrsprttalon
Date Posted: October 06, 2008 at 7:53 AM

The answer is 138.3 . I guess I will need to upgrade the alternator as well before I get too crazy with the upgrade. I have been torn on a capacitor issue. I have people saying yes I have people saying no. What is your opinion?

Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: October 06, 2008 at 8:14 AM

Yes to the alternator, no to the cap, and the "swap" to Audioburn is anything BUT an "upgrade". If you haven't bought them yet, DON'T!!! Don't buy into the fallicy that "shiny=gooder", or that "flames=more better".

What's your budget? We can probably help you find something better for your money!

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: October 06, 2008 at 9:37 AM

Haem, but how could flames not be more better?

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Kevin Pierson

Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: October 06, 2008 at 4:50 PM

Don't get Ganked by the capacitor salesman. Stay away from the AudioBling.

Posted By: tndrsprttalon
Date Posted: October 11, 2008 at 5:57 PM

This is the same install I hope I put this in the right place.
I am working on an install with a 2006 Dodge Stratus SXT sedan 2.4 liter four cylinder engine. I am doing the big 3 wires. The wires I am using for the upgrade are 0 gauge. I have heard both sides and due to the extent of the harness I will be leaving the original harness in.
I have come across 2 different ground wires from the engine/transmission. I am also under the impression that the power from alternator to battery is just that, mine runs from the alternator to the starter then from starter to battery.
1) Do I have to replace both of the ground wires?
2) Can I run straight from the alternator to the battery with the new wire?