how do i determine amp class?

I just picked up an insignia amp and subs as a temp soloution until I can save some money to buy a real setup, but I'm wondering how I figure out my amp class.

It doesn't appeaer to be listed anywhere, so I don't know if the amp is class A/B or D or what.
I'm also not sure if its important, but I was curious anyway.

The company doesn't provide the most extensive specs on either the subs or the amp.

You would need a schematic of the amplifier's internal circuitry, and look at the output stage topology and biasing arrangement.

A good section on amplifier classes and theory of operation available here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_amplifier

It's a "buyer beware" type of situation. There will be no way of knowing, just by looking at it. Even by opening the thing up, unless you know what the different amp classes look like, you'll still not likely be able to tell.

It may or may not be terribly important, that's a decision that each user would have to make in his particular situation.

This would be a perfect example of an amp I would avoid at whatever cost. Any manufacturer that tight lipped about even something as basic as an amplifer CLASS... They're hiding something.

What's the model number, I'll see what I can find out. (And sometimes the model number can just give it away...) If this is the BB blowout NS-A1000 for 26 bux, it's class A/B, and garbage.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

I can't remember if it this way, but the classes signify the efficiency. Class D is higher I think it was over 50% efficient, so the fuse should 50% higher than the output. A/B was something like 25-45%, so I would expect the fuses be 65-75% higher than the output. Say a class D had an output of 100 watts, would need 12.5 amps and a a/b about 14amps. This small an amp fuses would be difficult, but hopefully it works that way and will help.

Your Insignia amplifier is Class A/B.  I worked for the bigbox and know a lot about thier own Insignia brand.  It's a cheap amp built overseas, designed by only-haemphyst-knows-who. ( lol ) and works marginally.  Strange enough, the over-all quality of those amplifiers amazed me because when i sold them, I never saw one come back with problems or defects.

reax222 wrote:

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I can't remember if it this way, but the classes signify the efficiency.

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The classes signify the TOPOLOGY... Meaning the way the output devices are switched on and off to drive the load - in an analog mode (always on in some respect) or in a digital mode (switched completely on and completely off at very high frequencies, like a light switch - literally). It has a direct effect on the efficiency, but it is not the efficiency that determines the amplifier class, it's the other way around.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

haemphyst wrote:

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It's a "buyer beware" type of situation. There will be no way of knowing, just by looking at it. Even by opening the thing up, unless you know what the different amp classes look like, you'll still not likely be able to tell.

It may or may not be terribly important, that's a decision that each user would have to make in his particular situation.

This would be a perfect example of an amp I would avoid at whatever cost. Any manufacturer that tight lipped about even something as basic as an amplifer CLASS... They're hiding something.

What's the model number, I'll see what I can find out. (And sometimes the model number can just give it away...) If this is the BB blowout NS-A1000 for 26 bux, it's class A/B, and garbage.

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no, I wouldnt buy something like this for $26, I was actually hesitant to buy this setup for $149(on sale from $207)
It's the NS-P2000 package, 500W(bridged, 4OHM) 2ch amp, and 2 12" subs.

The only reason I did buy it is because it was cheap, will provide me some bass until I can buy the MTX subs I want, and of all the reviews I read, I only read about 2 people having ANY kind of problem with this system.... so, knowing full well that it was a mass-produced-overseas piece of crap, it was a quick and easy way to get some sound, and allow me to get everything all put together.

trust me, im going to upgrade later on....

Anyway, the amp has 2 30 amp fuses, and I read the sticky here, so I think the 30A fuses in the 500W amp, is actually pretty decent according to the math in that thread.... I could be wrong though.

it wasnt a bad deal, but i agree, its not even entry level lol.