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jl 1000/1, custom 13w7 box?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=108265
Printed Date: May 01, 2024 at 5:24 PM


Topic: jl 1000/1, custom 13w7 box?

Posted By: 97ssei61
Subject: jl 1000/1, custom 13w7 box?
Date Posted: October 20, 2008 at 10:40 AM

i have a jl 1000/1 amp  that i recently put in, and after i put it in i had to drive to listen to it and was working fine but i turned a corner a lil fast and it disconncted my power cable frome the fuse holder behind my seat( i have 2 in line fuses one 4in from the battery and one just behind the cushion on the rear seat because my power wire was 2 short and couldnt find a connector to join a extra 3 ft) anyways after i returned home and reconnected the wire the amp does not turn on and both fuses are still good. do u think i blew my amp?

why doesnt this amp have a fuse on it like other amps?




Replies:

Posted By: megaman
Date Posted: October 20, 2008 at 12:47 PM
I highly doubt you blew up the amp.  You'll need to check the voltages at the amplifier with your DMM.  Also check the ground connection.  If your power lead pulled out, maybe your ground pulled out as well.  BTW, for the sake of all our sanity, mount the amp so it doesn't slide around!




Posted By: 97ssei61
Date Posted: October 20, 2008 at 8:06 PM
yea my pet monkey knew I shoulda atleast temporary set the amp b4 my joyride but I'm an idiot.




Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: October 20, 2008 at 10:21 PM
97ssei61 wrote:

but I'm an idiot.


No, I am    You said Pet Monkey




Posted By: 97ssei61
Date Posted: October 20, 2008 at 11:55 PM
LOL how did I say pet monkey

I really never used a dmm what do I set it on to test the power and ground?
thank u for the help




Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: October 21, 2008 at 4:39 AM
Set it to the DC Volts selection, if it has different DC Volt settings set it to the 20 volt setting. DC Volts will be the V with the straight line near it. The V with the wave on side of it is the AC Volts selection.
Once you have it set properly open the hood and connect it to your battery for testing. Red Lead on positive terminal, black lead on negative terminal. If it is reading near 12 volts, you have it on the correct setting.

When testing the voltage at the amp, you need to have your radio turned on. Touch and hold the black meter lead to the ground screw ON THE AMP, then touch the red lead to the top of the power screw. Notice the reading on the meter. Now move the red lead to the remote terminal of the amp. Notice that reading. Let us know what you find.




Posted By: 97ssei61
Date Posted: October 21, 2008 at 10:26 PM
alright I tested the batery and got 12.71v tested right after main fuse got the same. After the second fuse nothing and fuse isn't blown so I took out the fuse and put the same one back in and it worked. But on my drive to work it stopped again, no power after second fuse so I replaced the fuse with a new one and nothing. So I'm think it's something with the holder cuz the wire have a solid connection to it. So this weekend I'm just gonna run a new power wire so I don't have to have that second fuse holder




Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: October 21, 2008 at 10:28 PM
I know when they released that speaker they were telling us no less than 2 x 3/4 for the mounting of the speaker. Did they change that to 1"?   Since you are using Plexi and I am sure it will not be an easy task to rebuild the box, I would do some research (I guess that is what you are doing here) to find out if 1" will be sufficient to mount the woofer.




Posted By: emptypockets426
Date Posted: October 21, 2008 at 11:03 PM
Better to be safe...sandwich 2 pieces of 3/4 inch mdf for the front. As for the plexiglass, if you find 1 inch thick plexi...go for it. be prepared for it to crack. It might sound stupid but do some research on lexane (might be spelled wrong) which is bullet proof glass. Very expensive but 100 times better than plexi.




Posted By: 97ssei61
Date Posted: October 22, 2008 at 12:15 AM
yea I just looked up lexan and I can get a 24"x48" .5"thick for almost $250 but that's a oil too much just to see the back of the sub. If the plexi is just gonna crack im gonna have to do mdf back which is gonna make the trunk a lil plain maybe I'll put the amp there with plexi covering it, will the amp get too hot like that?




Posted By: 97ssei61
Date Posted: October 22, 2008 at 12:16 AM
oil>>lil




Posted By: megaman
Date Posted: October 22, 2008 at 12:20 AM
just use 1" plexi for the rear of the enclosure.  I've done it a few times with the 13W7.  The width and length were not too extreme so it worked fine. 




Posted By: emptypockets426
Date Posted: October 22, 2008 at 11:21 AM
Never cover an amp, especially an amp that size. Heat has to be able to escape. You can cover the amp with plexi but try to find a way to cool the amp. Maybe use a small computer fan under the amp and make ports somehow under the amp to allow air flow. Sounds tough but it's actually pretty simple. My suggestion is coming up with a floating amp rack with a plexi cover...maybe some lights...this way although it has a plexi cover on top...it won't get hot because its floating. When you open the trunk, no one has to see under the amp, they just see the top. the nicer you make the top...the less people have to critique.




Posted By: 97ssei61
Date Posted: October 22, 2008 at 10:27 PM
I am planning a custom install of a 13w7 in my car and plan on having the speaker face the rear seat. I'm using 3/4 mdf for the sides, top and bottom and 1" for the front where the speaker goes. My question is I want to use plexiglass for the back so u can see the read of the sub from the trunk, what thickness should I use. I was thinking 1" is that enough for that sub and I would like to light up the inside of the box when I open the trunk, what would be the best way to do that?

Thanks in advance!




Posted By: bobonit
Date Posted: October 28, 2008 at 11:24 AM

JL Audio's website does state 1" MDF for the mounting plate in the manual for the 13W7. 

I'm glad I found this post, I would like to do the same type of enclosure with windows viewable from the trunk so you see the rear of the speakers.

For lighting, you could just mount some LED's inside the enclosure.  They will be able to handle the vibrations and you get some very bright ones for cheap.  I have some blue superbright 5mm led's I was thinking of mounting inside where you can't see them, just aim them so the lighting looks good.





Posted By: 97ssei61
Date Posted: December 05, 2008 at 4:22 PM

heres my problem, I have a JL1000/1 hooked up to my 13w7. I have 4ga ran with only a 100a fuse(which keeps blowing) i know from here that i should have a 150a fuse in. when i went to pick one up at the audio shop the guy was asking me about my setup and told me i should put 0/1ga in with at the least a 350a fuse and have an extra battery in and upgrade my alternator. which he would gladly sell and install. IMO i really got the feeling he was just worried about sales than actually helping me.

JLs manual for the amp states :

The 1000/1's "+12 VDC" and "Ground" connections are designed to accept 4 AWG power wire. 4 AWG is the only recommended power wire size for this amplifier.

so should i stick with the 4ga and up the fuse to 150 or follow the advice from the guy at the shop?

should i use the tube fuses, the oversized pronged one, the L shaped one, or a breaker?does it even matter?

i would really like to bang this setup without blowing a fuse every 2 minutes so u can hear me coming, any and all help/advice is greatly appreciated!





Posted By: 97ssei61
Date Posted: December 06, 2008 at 9:47 AM
?anyone?




Posted By: 97ssei61
Date Posted: December 07, 2008 at 8:35 AM
come onsomeone help so i cant get it done? any advice




Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: December 07, 2008 at 10:44 AM
you should use a maxi fuse. the ones that looks like a giant regular fuse. i hate the glass fuses because some times they dont blow like they should and it makes it very hard to tell if it is blown. that guy at the shop was just trying to sell you something you dont need. a 350 amp fuse is ridiculous for a 1000/1

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