what gauge wire?

hi all,i need a recommendation on speaker wire.I just need to know what gauge I should buy.thanks alot

I like to use either 10 or 12 gauge for subs. And 14 or 16 gauge for mids and highs.

ok,thanks man

Seriously consider using 10 - 12 guage Kimber cable. The stuff really is amazing wired that actually delivers a noticeable better signal.

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95 Cavalier 2.2L
High Output Alternator
Rockford 1 Farad Punch Capacitor
JL 500/1 for RF Punch HX2 500 watt RMS subs
MTX 4244 4 channel for Polk & Pioneer door and rear deck speakers

Kimber Cable does not deliver a cleaner signal, no matter what anyone is telling you...WIRE IS WIRE, and Kimber is designer wire...like designer jeans...

it doesnt outperform, but uneducated people see the price and think it must be better...its that price cuz it says Kimber on it...for that much money, I will buy you 4 ga welding cable and write Kimber on it...and then have a really good weekend out on the rest of the cash...and if you didnt see it you wouldnt be able to tell me there was a difference...

as long as the size is right, it DOES NOT MATTER what you buy for wire...35 cent a foot welding cable or 25 buck a foot Kimber gear...it will all sound the same...

Ya see you're wrong there. I've been to several SPL competitions and I assure you that Kimber cable delivers a much cleaner signal throughout a system. Ever wonder why video cable and computer cable is twisted? Yeah it's becaues it avoids signal interference and maintains a cleaner signal throughout. At these competitions, I saw two identical systems one with standard cable and one with Kimber and believe me you could hear a difference. Of course as you said, that just because something is more expensive doesn't mean it's better but in the realm of car audio - making such an assumption is more than a safe bet.

-------------
95 Cavalier 2.2L
High Output Alternator
Rockford 1 Farad Punch Capacitor
JL 500/1 for RF Punch HX2 500 watt RMS subs
MTX 4244 4 channel for Polk & Pioneer door and rear deck speakers

lol...identical systems eh?

were they the EXACT same model and year of car with the EXACT same alternator putting out the EXACT same power and all of the equipment in the EXACT same place in the car and the EXACT same age with the EXACT same gain settings?

did you use an oscilloscope to check all of this out?

I dont think so...power cable is power cable...

go put up a post at carsound.com and ask richard clark or david navone if the wire makes a difference....

and if you dont know who those guys are dont bother responding...

Yeah, power wire doesn't really matter as long as it can handle the current. As for video cables, those carry an AC wave, completely different thing.

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2009 Pontiac G8 in planning stage
HU: ?
Speakers: ?
Amps: ?

Everything doesn't have to be exactly the same to produce the same results you moron! I don't need an oscilloscope to tell if something sounds better than something else - some of us have our ears that can do that. Also, power is not power, an audio signal is constantly changing in power, frequency, and amplitude throughout the duration of a song - it's not just carrying constant raw voltage in which case you would be right in that it wouldn't matter. Well if you guys want inferior sound, go for standard crappy cable and let the rest of us have our cars blasting out great sound.

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95 Cavalier 2.2L
High Output Alternator
Rockford 1 Farad Punch Capacitor
JL 500/1 for RF Punch HX2 500 watt RMS subs
MTX 4244 4 channel for Polk & Pioneer door and rear deck speakers

Also, the systems I heard at the SPL were exact systems! They rewired the subs and other speakers with standard and then kimber cable as a demonstration. They were using JL amps and subs which put out a quality signal that you guys using your Jensen (crap) and other junk amps wouldn't understand.

-------------
95 Cavalier 2.2L
High Output Alternator
Rockford 1 Farad Punch Capacitor
JL 500/1 for RF Punch HX2 500 watt RMS subs
MTX 4244 4 channel for Polk & Pioneer door and rear deck speakers

I think there are alot of fishy things about your statements...

first of all, in the first post you made about Kimber vs "regular" cable, you insinuate two separate systems being compared...not the same system as you say in your "correction" post...

and as far as just wiring the subs and speakers, that doesnt make sense becuase the power wire is still "low quality" (in your terms)...and that screws your theory totally, because an amplifier amplifies a signal...period...and an amp will amplify a clean or a dirty signal...if you put dirty in, you get dirty out...so unless they changed every power supply wire starting at the alternator and going back, then the test which you claim showed a difference, is total garbage...just like most of what I have seen you post...

you can have the best amps in the world with the lowest signal to noise ratio, and it wont mean a thing if you send a signal from a Rampage deck...

as far as not needing an oscilloscope to measure everything, you wont know if everything is equal and the same to start your comparison, so there is no way to gauge differences...you cant compare apples to oranges, and if you move the subs 2 inches ahead or back in an otherwise identical install, there will be a difference...it might not be a huge difference, but it will be different...and then you are comparing 2 things that arent similar to begin with, so of course they will be different even before you start changing your variable...

and the last point of contention, it almost looks like you "assume" I run Jensen or other poor quality crap like you have listed in your signature...

I run a Clarion 9575z head unit, straight pre-amp, no internal amp to dirty a signal, to a Clarion 7500z digital signal processor, with a 655tz 6 pack changer...I have an MTX 2300 amp to run my front stage, which is a set of Focal PolyKevlar 5-1/4"s...and then I run an AudioControl Epicenter which provides signal to alternately A) a MMATS d200hc driving a Cerwin Vega Stroker 18 for SPL competition, or B) a Crossfire bmf1000D which drives a pair of Xtant Hex 12s for SQ and daily listening...

you wont find any low budget "sound like ass" Polk or Pioneer speakers, no useless and redundant caps, and no pansy ass little 4 channel amps in my car...my front stage amp puts out more power than all of your system combined...

I dont run crap equipment...and I know my audio...you need to learn yours...

did you go and take a peek at carsound.com? have you ever heard of richard clark or david navone? richard clark was the man who built an 84" sub out of plywood and inner tube when he was demonstrating the ridiculous direction that SPL competitions were headed in...go take a look at carsound and maybe spend enough time there to learn a few things before you come back here and misguide and misinform any more people...

So your front stage in your car is running 1500 watts?  I don't think so.  You're lying here so much it's not even funny anymore.  If you had the system you say (I seriously doubt), why don't you have it posted on your signature?  Simple answer, when I confronted you with my system, you went out and found the best system you could and pasted the specs right on into your message.   I'll bet your're bopping around in your Dodge Dart with a banging stock system right about now.

Clarion head units are nothing to be proud of either man.  I'll also take my Pioneer and Polk (which are GREAT speakers) any day but I will admit these Focal PolyKevlar speakers you (claim to) have do look very impressive.     

Oh my gosh, Cerwin Vega subs - are you crazy?!  I had a pair of Cerwin Vega's before I got my Rockfords and they sucked so much ass it wasn't even funny.  If you're talking about the MTX 2300, it's just a 600 watt amp - what a joke!  Junk CW's being underpowered, boy that must sound great!

Also this AudioControl Epicenter is nothing more than an expensive bass booster!  I got more than enough of that on my JL amps to make me happy.  I noticed you had nothing to say about my JL amps since there is no better amp out there and you have exactly 0 of them.  I'm amazed you'd call a 4 channel amp small since they don't get much bigger than that.

Face it, you don't know anything more than me and posting a system on here does nothing to change that.  We're never going to agree and you've scared all the other posters away from this thread.  If you do indeed have the system you claim to then I'm sure it sounds good to you and mine sounds great to you.  Let's just be happy with what we have, respect each others opinions, and go on our way.  Agreed?

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95 Cavalier 2.2L
High Output Alternator
Rockford 1 Farad Punch Capacitor
JL 500/1 for RF Punch HX2 500 watt RMS subs
MTX 4244 4 channel for Polk & Pioneer door and rear deck speakers

wire does make a difference!

case closed!

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VW beetle - the true classic

Well said Tim Nice But Di!!!

-------------
95 Cavalier 2.2L
High Output Alternator
Rockford 1 Farad Punch Capacitor
JL 500/1 for RF Punch HX2 500 watt RMS subs
MTX 4244 4 channel for Polk & Pioneer door and rear deck speakers

do you know what a Cerwin Vega Stroker is? you probably had the Cerwin heads or another line...the Strokers have taken the SPL title several times...go to termpro.com and ask around...

where in your system is 1500W? I have 3 MTX 2300s...they have all been benched, the lowest wattage being 997 or something and the highest being 1012...it is a 2x300W amp, but highly underrated...

if I wanted to find the best system out there, it would consist of alot better gear than what I am running...if I was really rich I would have it, but unfortunately I dont have tens of thousands of dollars to burn on my stereo...take a look around these forums, I have posted my system more than once...this is not what I "claim to have," this is what I roll around listening to...

your claim on Clarion decks is also unfounded...sure, if you are not willing to buy good gear, almost everyones low line sucks...the 9575 was one of the top decks Clarion ever made, especially for SQ...the only one better that Clarion made was the 9255, which was the same deck inside as the McIntosh MX406 (I think, forget the exact model number)

lol, Dart...thats sweet...naw, I drive Datsuns...240Z and 280ZX...

there is nothing really to complain about in the JL amps...they are a solid amp...

you make no mention of a head unit however...are you running this all off of the stock head unit? and why the cheap speakers? I bet they are all still in factory locations, arent they? the only good sounding Pioneer speaker I have ever heard or seen was the ODR line...and I bet you arent running those...and as far as Polk is concerned, any true audiophile would rather gag than listen to Polk speakers...

the last thing I have to say is why have you not gone to carsound.com? why havent you asked richard clark about it? richard clark has a test in which he offers $10,000 to people like yourself who are so convinced can tell the difference a wire makes...you should go look into it, maybe you can win yourself $10,000...he plays the exact same track on the exact same system and all he does is change the wiring around...

many people have challenged and all have gone home losers...but hey, since your hearing is so much better, maybe you can go take his $10K...

I'm through talking, just keep lying and making stuff up as long as it keeps your ego stoked. That's obvisoulsy why you come to this forum.

-------------
95 Cavalier 2.2L
High Output Alternator
Rockford 1 Farad Punch Capacitor
JL 500/1 for RF Punch HX2 500 watt RMS subs
MTX 4244 4 channel for Polk & Pioneer door and rear deck speakers

Wellv If I xcould put in my 2 cents. I belive your power cable doesnt make a big deal as long as it gets a good sigal to the amp. And as for the speaker wireing If you are running high wattage speaker wiring that will make a difference b/c your stock wiring isnt very insalated.

I agree with you 100% on what you just said. Power wire only matters with AWG size but speaker wiring quality makes a big difference.

-------------
95 Cavalier 2.2L
High Output Alternator
Rockford 1 Farad Punch Capacitor
JL 500/1 for RF Punch HX2 500 watt RMS subs
MTX 4244 4 channel for Polk & Pioneer door and rear deck speakers

Wire is wire copper is copper, no matter how you spell it. Only in AWG size is where you find a difference.

lol pilot...its ALL power wire...the wire from the battery feeds power to the amplifier and the wire from the amplifier feeds power to the speakers...what arent you understanding here?

Kimber 12ga is the same as Stinger 12ga is the same as generic 12ga is the same as Monster Cable 12ga...its all 12ga OFC wire...period...

I will respect your opinion when it is correct...but if you continue to feed this BS to others, I will continue to let everyone know how big an idiot you really are...

First of all, enough with the Jensen bashing, I never claimed it was any good. Just gotta get the money for a new amp. And second of all, CV Strokers are VERY good subs. Third of all, JL does not make the best amps, though they are very good (yes, better than Jensen lol)

-------------
2009 Pontiac G8 in planning stage
HU: ?
Speakers: ?
Amps: ?

You've obviously never even seen Kimber cable then have you?

This is Kimber:
https://www.kimber.com/8pr.htm

If you think that looks like generic audio cable then you need to have your eyes checked! Twisted audio cable maintains signal integrity, something that is not necessary for the power wire from the battery to the amps because it is just raw power. It's seems YOU can't even understand the basics of car audio so you should just leave this forum.

-------------
95 Cavalier 2.2L
High Output Alternator
Rockford 1 Farad Punch Capacitor
JL 500/1 for RF Punch HX2 500 watt RMS subs
MTX 4244 4 channel for Polk & Pioneer door and rear deck speakers

here you go pilot...you wouldnt go to carsound so I went there for you...

https://www.carsound.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=020979

anyone who isnt familiar with who Richard Clark is may want to read a little more into the car audio industry...

Big Purds, it's obvious that no one is going to change pilot_chris' mentality. Some people are just born stubborn. Best thing I can suggest is if he want's to keep on believing that one piece of OFC is going to be better than another because of what name is on it, price, appearance, ect., then let him keep on believing that. He can keep paying those outrages prices and keep making the big companies richer. Big companies need people like pilot_chris! But pilot_chris, don't try to spread that bs here...'cause it just won't go!!!

Well if you guys want your systems to sound inferior you just keep on running crap wire and let the rest of us enjoy great audio.

-------------
95 Cavalier 2.2L
High Output Alternator
Rockford 1 Farad Punch Capacitor
JL 500/1 for RF Punch HX2 500 watt RMS subs
MTX 4244 4 channel for Polk & Pioneer door and rear deck speakers

Yeah ok Terd, you're gonna try to vindicate your position by posting your argument here on another website? Yeah, that will surely help.

-------------
95 Cavalier 2.2L
High Output Alternator
Rockford 1 Farad Punch Capacitor
JL 500/1 for RF Punch HX2 500 watt RMS subs
MTX 4244 4 channel for Polk & Pioneer door and rear deck speakers

I asked richard clark that question because he more than qualifies as a professional in this subject...I asked him because you insist you are right when the majority of us know that you are wrong...

it doesnt appear that you are going to concede here and admit that you are wrong, so I sourced out an answer by a professional so people who arent as educated as myself dont buy into this sh*t you are preaching...

I am also hoping to educate you as well as the people you have taught wrong into not buying into the BS marketing that some companies use to bring them business...

it all boils down to what I originally said, wire is wire...I hope you can see this now...or do you still not believe me?

I'll never believe you since I've heard the difference for myself - how could you ever talk me out of believing what I've heard in person? Give up.

-------------
95 Cavalier 2.2L
High Output Alternator
Rockford 1 Farad Punch Capacitor
JL 500/1 for RF Punch HX2 500 watt RMS subs
MTX 4244 4 channel for Polk & Pioneer door and rear deck speakers

if you can hear the difference, why dont you go and take richard clark up on his test and walk away with an extra $10K in your pocket...

I can understand though, if I went out and blew a whole a*sload of money on Kimber Cable, I would probably try to justify it by pretending to hear a difference as well...lol...you got took and cant admit it...psycho-acoustics can be a b*tch, cant they?