sub enclosure for 02 mustang gt

Hey everyone. I recently got a kicker cvr 12 which i like a lot. Right now I just have in a standard sealed box that barely fits in my trunk and I was looking to build something that looks and fits a little better. Ive seen custom enclosures for mustangs that hold two 12's and are angled to fit underneath the factory amps. I was wondering if i could build something like that for my one 12? Has anyone done this or does anyone have any ideas? Also should i stay sealed or build a ported? I know ported is more complicated to build.

I have one kicker cvr 12 powered by a kicker zx400.1 amp. im building a sealed box for it and the recommended cubic feet range is from 1.0-4.6 ft. Im not sure exactly how much cubic feet i should have. I listen to mostly rap and I want my sub to hit as hard as possible while still having tight clean bass. its going in a 2002 mustang if that matters.

Hey guys I am also working on a sealed subwoofer enclosure for two 10" kicker comp cvr at 400 watts rms each. The cubic feet requirements for this sub are 0.8 to 3.0 cubic feet. My question is this... Where in this cubic feet range should I make this enclosure. I listen to mostly rap music and I would like my subs to hit as hard as possible without losing any sound quality. What would you guys recommend?

ofcourse you could always build something. if you can take measurements, cut and glue wood together. the problem is your mustang's trunk. you have very little vertical clearance and the trunk opening is small and has a weird shape that makes it hard to fit anything much bigger than a 10 or 12, unless you actually build the box inside the trunk.

but, if you do build a box you should make it as flat as possible without blocking the vent hole in back of your sub. build it like a thin rectangle so it will fit in your trunk easily

as far as the volume of the box, you might want to go a little bit bigger than the recommended specs, like another .2 cubic feet. this is just my opinion

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rgavin82 wrote:

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Hey guys I am also working on a sealed subwoofer enclosure for two 10" kicker comp cvr at 400 watts rms each. The cubic feet requirements for this sub are 0.8 to 3.0 cubic feet. My question is this... Where in this cubic feet range should I make this enclosure. I listen to mostly rap music and I would like my subs to hit as hard as possible without losing any sound quality. What would you guys recommend?

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Ported for kicker is the way to go for a rap guy/ bass head. You will get a lot more output. Just with it peaking in a more narrow freq range.  But in a sealed box you will have more SQ because it is a flatter response through the frequency range. CVR like the L5/L7s also like airspace. The closer you can get to the big end of the box range the more output you are going to get from the sub. The mustang is a tricky one to design an encloser for as said above. I actully did  a box for 2 15s bandpassed in one before. It had to be completely built inside the trunk but, it can be done. 1 12 should be pretty straight forward and not that bad to do. Just take lots of measurments. to make sure you can get it in the trunk.  Sealed is definately better for a first time/ novice builder. Ported boxes are pretty picky. There air space along with port has to be spot on or it will not sound right.  But back to your question. Sealed is going to be your best bet. Space will limit your cubic foot for the box but i would try to get as close to the max box spec as possible. That will be your loudest config for SQ and output. Also from my experiece they seem to work better in seperate chambers but this will also come down to space limitations. It could actually be better in a shared chamber if say you can only get a 3 cube box or less for the pair.

The best advice i can give is take as good measument as you can of what will fit in the car. and then play with the box calculator on the site to get the box as close to the most air space  possible within the max specs. As for building the box Kicker has now addded a box building section to there web site in the support tab to help you with the actual construction and there are a few threads and tutorials here as well that should really help you get started. Good luck and if you have any further questions. Feel free to ask.

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Hey J. Reed my friend and I have two system projects going on right now. The two 10" kicker comp vr subs are going in an F-150 super cab. So we both are fairly limited to how big we can make our subwoofer boxes. As i said before the 10" woofers require 0.8 to 3.0 cubic feet per subwoofer. When i took some measurements on roughly how large I am willing to make the box in my truck, the cubic feet of air space came out to be 3.08 before the divider to make separate chambers for each sub. So basically there is 1.54 cubic feet of air space per sub without taking the woofer basket and divider for the chambers into consideration. How do you think that would sound? This is also going to be a sealed box being that this is my first time actually making an enclosure.

1.5 per will be fine. Seperate chambers may not yield as good a result as one chamber.  As far as output But, with seperate chambers if the dreaded happens that you blow one sub it can really help to save the other.  Kicker actually also recommends seperate chambers when at all possible. As for sound make sure the box is fully air tight. It should produce well with good clean power and SQ should be pretty good with correct amp tuning.

As for driver displacement Kicker specs include the driver displacement already. Other than airspace the only thing needed  for there recommended spec boxes would be figuring and adding port area which does not apply to you building a sealed box. 

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HERE I GOT A MESSAGE BUT NOT RETURN ONE, THAT'S OK. HERE IS WHAT I DO HERE IS MY SET UP HAVE FUN WITH THAT SEALED BOX. PORTS HIT HARDER


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Ronald Bailey Owner/ Installer of VIBRATION CUSTUM SOUNDS. CUSTOM BOX DESIGNER AND BUILDER
TID-896 7" screen,Amp-BX1206d
4/0power/ground cables
4-12 mofos 12ft3 box tuned 40hz DB:163.1

airhed692005 wrote:

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HERE I GOT A MESSAGE BUT NOT RETURN ONE, THAT'S OK. HERE IS WHAT I DO HERE IS MY SET UP HAVE FUN WITH THAT SEALED BOX. PORTS HIT HARDER

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Who you yelling at???

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rgavin82 , not you j.reed. Sorry did not put that in there, My fault. He wrote me a pm and said he wanted to see what i can design for his car but never got back to me with the L x W x H that his trunk was. That is it. Here is something I just designed on my computer. Let me know what you thing. It is a kick panel with a 8" sub and a tweeter in the door

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Ronald Bailey Owner/ Installer of VIBRATION CUSTUM SOUNDS. CUSTOM BOX DESIGNER AND BUILDER
TID-896 7" screen,Amp-BX1206d
4/0power/ground cables
4-12 mofos 12ft3 box tuned 40hz DB:163.1

Is it ok to use 1" thick mdf for building a sealed subwoofer enclosure? I am building a box for two 10" kicker comp vr subwoofers at 400 watt rms each. The box needs to be able to support a lot of weight (because i am mounting a seat to it) so I wanted to make it as sturdy as possible. Thanks for the advice

It's ok to use 1", but, if I'm correct, you should be fine with 3/4" if your just building a box for two 10's.

Im not sure I would mount a seat to a subwoofer box at all.  Basically for saftey reasons,  think what would happen to that seat and sub box in a rollover accident.  The pressures that would be exerted on that box would be way more than it could handle.  This is why seats come mounted to the steel floor from the factory..

ragsports wrote:

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Im not sure I would mount a seat to a subwoofer box at all.  Basically for saftey reasons,  think what would happen to that seat and sub box in a rollover accident.  The pressures that would be exerted on that box would be way more than it could handle.  This is why seats come mounted to the steel floor from the factory..

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I think he is doing a truck build. And that is the reason he wants it to be strong enough is for weight to rest on the box.

If you are infact intending the box to be the point to secure the seat the above is correct.( I really hope your not intending that) There is no way i would do that and have a passanger ride there.

3/4 would be fine for the seat to rest on. You will want to add some extra bracing. Simple 3"x3" triangles should work well enough. A divider wall  would stiffin it the most.

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