amplifer selection

I Have A 2002 Ford Ranger Extended Cab Pickup. I Have Purchase A New Pioneer AVIC-F90BT Head Unit. I Have Also Purchased 2 Pair Of Alpine SPR-57C Speakers, 100 Watt RMS Rating@ 4 ohms....I Am Wanting An Amp For These Four Speakers. I Looked At One That Is A JBL GTO75.4 4 Channel Amp. The Specs Are 104 watts RMS X 4 @ 4 omhs. 2 x 30 Amp Fuses And Signal To Noise Is 80db. Or Can You Give Me Some Amps, Brand And Model That Would Work For Me

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Never 2 Old To Learn, Never To Young 2 Die

 alpine pdx-4.100..........alpine-4.150........look into audison great sq amps

there's lots  brax, helix...whatcha lookin for?   $$?

I'm Looking To Spend About $200....You Know Also, I Found An Alpine Amp That Puts Out 70 X 4 @4ohms....Wondering If That Would Be Enough Or Should I Find Something Else That Put Out Closer To 100 Rms @ 4 Ohms

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Never 2 Old To Learn, Never To Young 2 Die

 You can get a new Audison SRX-4 on ebay right now for $249.99 ..........Its 85watts by 4 Rms........not as small as the PDX amps but still very small..........I have three of the srx-4 for my front stage and am impressed. 

running 3-ways on those amps boogey?      70w on type r coaxals would b enough.  85 would b better

cadenceclipse wrote:

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damn, 3 srx-4s on fronts?  freakin better b impressed!  what r they powering?

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I'm running a pair of PDX4.150's to my doors. 600WRMS (and a little extra) per side! 150 each tweeter (JL silks) and mid (custom vifa kevlar), 300w each Adire 6.8...

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

so your using 1 pdx per door or...what happened to the srxs??

 1 srx-4 bridged to 2 channels on 2 peerless hds 1' large format tweets..........1 srx-4 bridged to 2 channels on 2 peerless 830870 4" mids.........1 srx-4 channel bridged to 2 channels on 2 peerless sls 8" midbass .......1020 rms watts total to front stage at 4 ohms...But all my fronts are 8 ohm.

my bad, hemp, damn and damn to u also boogey how do those setups sound????

Well, there are 5 members on the board that have heard mine, and they all seem quite pleased! :) One member (jackfinks) is an iASCA SQ judge, and he recommended strongly "I get this car to some competitions".

With the Alto UCSPro signal processors in the trunk (two... One for the doors, one for the sub) I present a pretty decent front stage, and with nearly all tracks, there is NO gap between bass and sub-bass. Isobarik TC1000 in a (near critical) stuffed transmission line presents some of the FINEST sub-bass I have ever heard in ANY car, let alone mine. Smooth, linear, subterranean extension... Davey likey! :)

48dB crossover slopes throughout, crossover points are 50, 200, and 3500. Time delay places Jennifer Warnes' undeniably sexy voice right dead center. Sounds like she's sitting in my lap, singing JUST to me. (Now there's a fantasy come true...) I'm pretty happy with it, if you hadn't gathered any of that! If you'd care to read the entire saga, here's the thread from the build.

BTW, Jack (or Bob, I know you still see him occasionally)... How's that Ghia doin'? We hit 95mph yet? LOL

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

what gives u the slopes and eq, the processors??  tcsounds, is that the name of the company(sub)? i always used 6db slopes on components, would u suggest higher(i have 24db on mbass and subbass).  whats difference between bass and subbass? and whats the point of the alpine hu? and, sory, tc's lpf is crosseed at 50hz? not on 48db slope though, right.     howbout u boogey??     and where do u find adire, peerless, tc, uspro, ect. brands

1: The processors are UCSPro 2-in/6-out digital crossover/EQ. EVERYTHING is done in the digital domain. 31 bands of TRUE parametric equalization, meaning I can adjust Q, frequency, and gain, infinitely. Most "parametric" EQs are quasi-parametric, meaning the Q option offers a few settings, not an infinite number, or the frequency centers are a limited number, ie 60Hz, 62.5Hz, 68Hz...

The crossover functions are 6, 12, 18, 24, 36 and 48dB options, in Linkwitz, Bessel, and Butterworth orders, and 1-, 2-, 3-, (stereo) or up to 6- ways (mono). All of this is in a set-it-and-forget-it box, that I must connect to my PC to adjust. It's nice, because nobody can futz with my settings, no matter WHERE I may have to take it for service or whatever.

They do a lot, and they cost a lot. In today's dollars? Unobtanium, as the company no longer exists, sadly. They were the first company to offer GOOD sounding full-range Class D amplifiers. In 2004 dollars, they were 800 each. Seems the innovative ones always seem to get the axe first, no? Their Class D amps used a 450K switching frequency, which I believe is still around twice what most Class D amps use.

2: TCSounds was a company in San Diego, specializing in long-throw, high power woofers. An OEM for Eclipse and others, Thilo also provided woofers for Tom Bohlender's Wisdom Audio speaker systems. I don't REALLY know what happened, but all of a sudden they were "Out of Business". You can still get some of the drivers on Parts Express, under the "AudioPulse" brand name. Those are real TC drivers, as before they went TU, they changed their name to AudioPulse. Fantastic drivers, but no warranty, other than PE.

3: 6dB is OK, but I only use a slope that shallow when it's not worth the damage cause by steeper slopes in passive systems. When running all active? As steep as possible, baby!

4: Bass is generally recognized as 50Hz to 250Hz. 50Hz and down is "sub-bass".

5: The subwoofer is the MOST important band to have crossed as steep as possible. Yes, 48dB there, too. On a dedicated UCSPro. Yep! 31 bands of EQ for the subwoofer alone. Can you say "flat response"?

Adire - Out of Business
Peerless - Parts Express, Madisound Catalog, Circle Sound in LA
Vifa - Parts Express, Madisound Catalog, Circle Sound in LA
AltoMobile - Out of Business
TCSounds - Parts Express (exclusive)

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

That's haemphyst, pronounced "ham-fist". No hemp! LOL

Passive means caps and coils in the signal path, one full-range signal, divided outside the amplifier, after gain is added. Active is dedicated amplifier with nothing but wire between amp and speaker, the amp adding gain to nothing but the desired band, with the signal being divided before the gain stage.

My midbass drivers are Adire 6.8 woofers (although technically, I run separate bass drivers and mid drivers). They go to 50Hz easily, even in the doors, and with no baffle.

That's the very idea. A true subwoofer should NEVER be "locatable", and for this to happen properly, low and steep crossover slopes are mandatory. A true subwoofer is an "affect" and an "effect", not a music source.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Hamfist is from my not generally knowing my own strength, as well as doing everything bigger and significantly more powerfully than is necessary, i.e. 1200 watts to the doors of my car. Heavy-handed.

While it IS possible to cascade crossovers, I generally recommend against doing so. If they are not identical crossover frequencies and architectures (Butterworth, Chebychev, etc.) there is no telling what results you'll end up with. You are better off buying a component with the desired specifications to begin with.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

a component???  u mean w/ outboard crossover box?? what about your crazy noncomponents???   i your advising to stay passive and not go active?   thanks for help so far fist.  can i call u fist?

"Component" - any discrete device a signal chain that amplifies (an amplifier), carries (RCA or speaker cables), produces (source unit), reproduces (speakers), or modifies (crossover or EQ) the audio signal. Really any discrete device in an entire system can be called a "component" [of the system], even the power cables - right down to the chassis of the car itself - the battery and alternator are ALL components of a car stereo system. Not specifically a "component speaker system", though they ARE called that because they are separate discrete devices, rather than all integrated into a single "system", frame, etc.

As far as advising? I am doing no such thing, (even though I *am* a fan of active systems) as the complexity and expense of all active systems are far beyond what most people want to spend.

Just because I didn't buy all of my drivers in a single box, and they don't include an outboard passive crossover box provided by any manufacturer, that doesn't mean thay aren't "components". My system was designed with a very specific goal in mind (uber-resolution), and to do that I couldn't even begin to consider anything off-the-shelf, or one-box. Almost three years of design, driver testing, collecting, installation, and tuning went into my system. There was one impulse buy in the entire thing: the JL silk dome tweeters.

Fist is fine, but I prefer "haemphyst" or "dave", if you're into the whole brevity thing!

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

yeah yeah component, just wondering exactly what u meant by component and specifications which sounds a lot like passive crossover w/ set specs, already set.  between hu and amp aren't u cascading crossovers?  what hu do u have.  is complexitity and expense what your after, not me, simplicity and quality(in which case active would b the better choice)(for me, u, and prob. evry1 else)  sory can't think gotta run...

cadenceclipse wrote:

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yeah yeah component, just wondering exactly what u meant by component and specifications which sounds a lot like passive crossover w/ set specs, already set.  between hu and amp aren't u cascading crossovers?  what hu do u have.  is complexitity and expense what your after, not me, simplicity and quality(in which case active would b the better choice)(for me, u, and prob. evry1 else)  sory can't think gotta run...

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Wha...? The ONLY thing in any of that, that made ANY sense was the part about cascading crossovers, which I'm not (IIRC). My deck's sub out runs full range (and if there is a cascade there, the deck's frequency is as HIGH as possible, so there isn't any "stacking") with the crossover doing all of the filtering functions. My head is the Alpine IVA-W205. Specifically, complexity and expense is what is necessary to achieve what I want, I'd do it the easy way if I could...

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."