cable sizes and fuses

Currently I have a 2002 crown vic and I have 4 gauge all the way to the trunk. I have a 600wrms amp for my kicker 12" L7 already.

I want to get another kicker to go along with the first. I was looking at getting the hifonics BXI1608D amp. Says it pushed 1600W RMS at 1 ohm. It also has two 70amp fuses in the amp so it seems like it really puts out the listed power. Any one have any opinons on this amp?

I will be running the subs at 1 ohm total.
Can I still use the 4 Gauge wire or do I NEED 2 gauge or larger? Also How would I properly pick out a larger inline fuse or circuit breaker for the new amp?

Thanks for any and all help.

ok the 4g is fine, you can use 4,2,0 or like me 0/4 that's going a little over board, I like that amp it is a good choice. if the amp has 2 70s you can go with 100 to 140 amp. you want it a little less so if there is a problem it blows the fuses in the front and not hurt your amp. That is a true 1600rms amp too. Push every bit of it. Will hope i helped and have a good one

-------------
Ronald Bailey Owner/ Installer of VIBRATION CUSTUM SOUNDS. CUSTOM BOX DESIGNER AND BUILDER
TID-896 7" screen,Amp-BX1206d
4/0power/ground cables
4-12 mofos 12ft3 box tuned 40hz DB:163.1

Wrong answer! WAY wrong answer.

1: The underhood fuse is to protect the car and the power wire. Period. I want Ronald to install my stereo... NOT! It has ZERO to do with "if there is a problem it blows the fuses in the front and not hurt your amp". That is the job of the onboard fuses. The underhood fuse should NEVER blow, unless there is a catastrophic failure of the insulation of the primary power wire

2: 70X2=140. 140 is perfectly safe on a #4 power cable, which is safe with up to a 150A fuse in it. 150A is what the cable SHOULD be fused for. Again: Period, and end of argument.

3: 70X2X12=1680. That's only 1680 watts in. 1600/1680=95% efficient. I doubt it. It's an impossibility. 80% is more like it, which is only 1300 watts. Not a huge number in the big scheme of things, but it is NOT a 1600 watt amp.

-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

haemphyst wrote:

---

Wrong answer! WAY wrong answer.

1: The underhood fuse is to protect the car and the power wire. Period. I want Ronald to install my stereo... NOT! It has ZERO to do with "if there is a problem it blows the fuses in the front and not hurt your amp". That is the job of the onboard fuses. The underhood fuse should NEVER blow, unless there is a catastrophic failure of the insulation of the primary power wire

2: 70X2=140. 140 is perfectly safe on a #4 power cable, which is safe with up to a 150A fuse in it. 150A is what the cable SHOULD be fused for. Again: Period, and end of argument.

3: 70X2X12=1680. That's only 1680 watts in. 1600/1680=95% efficient. I doubt it. It's an impossibility. 80% is more like it, which is only 1300 watts. Not a huge number in the big scheme of things, but it is NOT a 1600 watt amp.

---

You hit the nail on the head. 4 gauge, 150 amp fuse. Also im glad someone else can see the bs numbers to Hifonics amps. IM sure Its 95% efficient with SINE-WAVE power. Not with a resistive load. But thats how they roll. Play numbers games to sell product and before anyone tries to say anything. Yes i have used them. So yes i speak from experience with them.

-------------

Ok well, even if the amp pushes only 1300rms. that is still 650 a pieve when the kicker specs for a ported box calls for 600w rms.

Either way I think that amp is good for the price. Similar amps from junker brands only have liek 90 smp for thier fuses.

Is there any reason I should not use a circuit breaker in the engine bay rather than a MAXI fuse?

Also, does this box look too small insternal volume wise for the kickers?

Seems to be built on the low end of the specs.

Ebay

coldfusion11 wrote:

---

Also, does this box look too small insternal volume wise for the kickers?

Seems to be built on the low end of the specs.

Ebay

---

one more to the list of noobs who don't read the rules

-------------
Custom Enclosure Design

coldfusion11 wrote:

---

Ok well, even if the amp pushes only 1300rms. that is still 650 a pieve when the kicker specs for a ported box calls for 600w rms.

Either way I think that amp is good for the price. Similar amps from junker brands only have liek 90 smp for thier fuses.

Is there any reason I should not use a circuit breaker in the engine bay rather than a MAXI fuse?

---

Yes they are OK for the money and yes it will push 2 L7s 12s just fine. You need a inline fuse 150A no more than 1 foot from the batt. This is to protect your car. MAXI fuses dont go large enough to do this for 4 gauge wire.  The onboard fuse in the amp is to protect them amp.

-------------

 get an ANL style fuse and fuseholder.

aznboi3644 wrote:

---

one more to the list of noobs who don't read the rules

---

anyways,
id like to get a 150 amp circuit breaker, then It wont go out. It also looks better mounted and more factory looking.

But I do not have the time and resources right now to build a box. I have built many in the past but it is winter now with no heated area to work in.

Kickers specs 2.0 ft3 for a volume of a ported box so 1.7 each is stil 85% of its rec. So it shouldnt be TOO bad.

Hope this all works out well.
thanks for all of your guys help.

coldfusion11 wrote:

---

Is there any reason I should not use a circuit breaker in the engine bay rather than a MAXI fuse?

---

From what I have always heard circuit breakers are not always that reliable. Plus they are more expensive then a fuse.

I don't see what the benefit is of a circuit breaker. Other then the looks I would recommend a fuse. You shouldn't blow a fuse any more then once if it is set up correctly.

If you want to know more the link below should help...
https://www.bcae1.com/cirbrakr.htm

boogeyman wrote:

---

 get an ANL style fuse and fuseholder.

---

+1

-------------