kicker 2500.1 going into protect

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=110907
Printed Date: May 05, 2024 at 11:11 PM

Topic: kicker 2500.1 going into protect

Posted By: 94firebird form
Subject: kicker 2500.1 going into protect
Date Posted: January 23, 2009 at 2:19 AM

Hi everyone first post here. i have learned tons reading through forums, but I can't find specific detailed pictures to help me out. okay so here is the situation. I have 2 12" Kicker L7 DVC 2-ohms. These subs are 1500 watts and 750 rms apiece. So i figured I would need about 1500 rms. I decided to wire the subs series/parallel which would result in a 2-ohm load at the amp. The amp I have is a Kicker 2500.1(mono) which is CEA-2006 compliant and is rated at 2500 rms @ 2 ohms. which should be 1000 watts rms more than I need but I read that these subs can take the extra power so instead of the 1500.1 I went with the 2500.1. I have 0 gauge wire (power and ground) a 200 amp alternator and an optima yellow top battery. I went and purchased a digital multimeter today and checked the ohm load at the amp, it was bit bit low reading at between 1.5 and 1.6 when touching the multimeter to the sub wires at the amp terminal.When i start to crank it up the system will go into protect mode. I know these subs should be WAY louder than they are getting, before the amp goes into protect. In mind the gain isn't even 1/3 of the way up and the headunit is at 35/40 when it starts to go into protect. I believe it may be the series/parallel wiring. I have seen the photos of series/parallel wiring from the fosgate wring wizard and the ones here at 12 volt. I'm still not quite getting it. If I could get a link to a cite with actual photos of a series/parallel sub setup it might be helpful. Following is a diagram of my sub setup best as I could do in paint. I believe where I get confused is where there are two wires going into the 1st subs positive and negative terminals back to the amp.I've read somewhere the negative to the amp should be coming from the 2nd sub. please tell me if this is wrong, if not maybe any other reasons why my system isnt performing the way it should. Sry in advance if it is to large or too small not really sure how to change it an upload to photobucket. moderator pls change if it is too big. posted_image

Replies:

Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: January 23, 2009 at 5:46 AM

Do not play the amp. We need to know which of the terminals have the white dots in the middle of the red and black stickers. I have seen it too many times where one set of coils were shorted via the jumper wire, then the amp was connected to the other coil. So your supposed 4 or 8 ohm driver is now a 2 or a 4 ohm driver.

After looking at your diagram again, there may not be a white dot on that speaker. You have it connected exactly as I described above. Turn each speaker 90 degrees clockwise (in the picture of course) and make the wires look like they do in the picture.

Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: January 23, 2009 at 5:50 AM

See the Middle Diagram on this page.

Posted By: j.reed
Date Posted: January 23, 2009 at 10:07 AM

Double check the subs again. If you notice on the basket where you have you push termanals they are labeled with coil 1+, coil 1- and same for the coil 2 + and - insure these are correct. The way the positive and neg are placed on the corners rather than together like a normal sub makes it easy to get you coils messed up if you dont pay attention to what coil you are plugin into.

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Posted By: 94firebird form
Date Posted: January 23, 2009 at 6:06 PM

okay guys just wondering I haven't had time to unscrew the subs and get into the box. now i think i only have maybe 16/18 gauge audio wire going to the subs, i thought it only made like 1 dB difference , but maybe it matters power wise to the amp. so should i upgrade and get some say 12 or 14 gauge wire to wire the subs. also what exactly is a jumper cable? i'm pretty sure the wire i have connecting the + to - on each subis just the positive side of speaker wire. as in a single wire. you know how speaker wire is two wires side by side negative and positive. well i just stripped away the negative side wire and have a single positive running between the negative and positive terminals on each sub where you wire in series. and I've heard of this "jumper wire" or atleast thats what the guy in the elemental designs DVC wiring video said. also i have two more paint diagrams. just wondering if any of these setups will present a 2-ohm load to the amp.because i get confused in the other diagrams of series/parallel wiring. when say sub2's positive parallel wire go into sub1's positive terminal. then do you just stick another wire into sub1's positive terminal and run that to the amp, and the same with the negative side.(that is where i become confused in seeing the standard fosgate wiring diagram and here on the 12 volts diagram.) here are the other 2 setups. you don't really have to explain if they won't work just say no . posted_image

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Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: January 23, 2009 at 6:09 PM

As stated above look for the indicator that signifies coil one and coil 2. According to your picture, you jumped positive of coil 1 to negative of coil 1.

Option 2 (series/parallel) = 2 ohm load
Voice coils wired in series, speakers wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 2 or 1 ohm mono

Posted By: 94firebird form
Date Posted: January 23, 2009 at 9:12 PM

okay thanks everybody, I think it is wired right now.I switched the wire i had it ran from positive with white dot to negative with red dot. now it is ran from negative with white dot to positive without red dot. i did that to both subs then ran parallel. I put the multimeter to the boxes outs and it came up as 2.4 ohms where as it used to say 1.5 to 1.6 ohms. so hopefully this has fixed this issue.

Posted By: j.reed
Date Posted: January 24, 2009 at 12:11 AM

94firebird form wrote:

okay thanks everybody, I think it is wired right now.I switched the wire i had it ran from positive with white dot to negative with red dot. now it is ran from negative with white dot to positive without red dot. i did that to both subs then ran parallel. I put the multimeter to the boxes outs and it came up as 2.4 ohms where as it used to say 1.5 to 1.6 ohms. so hopefully this has fixed this issue.

That should do it. The ZX line is only 2ohm stable. So running that ohm load probaly is what set off the protection.

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