alpine type x box

Wanting to make a SQ box for two Alpine type x 12's.  Anyone had experience with what these subs sound good in as far as air space? Also wondering if a sealed box would be the way to go for a SQ enclosure for these specific subs or if ported would be better? Also this is going into a  01' Volkswagen Jetta

Does no oone have any recommendations for this particular sub? i would really appreciate it.

Sealed for SQ. Ported increase output but only in a more narrow freq range. The idea behind true SQ is to have a flat or level output through the freq range. Sealed is way better at this. The site show optimal sealed 1 cubic foot internal airspace per.

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Depends on how you like your bass to sound. The Type X sounds wonderful ported...sealed just has a different sound. IMO sealed sounds muffled.

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Custom Enclosure Design

I will be giving each sub about 850 rms (less than rated but i heard they are somewhat overrated and 1000 rms) Would a bigger box make the power that i do have more efficient but also sound good?

djrankin004 wrote:

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I will be giving each sub about 850 rms (less than rated but i heard they are somewhat overrated and 1000 rms) Would a bigger box make the power that i do have more efficient but also sound good?

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the difference between running 850 rms and 1000rms will be less than 1db. Yes ported can sound good but for a true SQ flat respose sealed is without a doubt the way to go. If you are feeling the need for more ouput then use ported but this will effect the overall SQ by making it peak in a more narrow freq range. You are going to have to decide if you want true SQ or something that sounds good and outputs better in a more specific range. true SQ bass is to fill the gap when midbass begins to fall off to the bottom freq range. It is simply made to fill and richin the bottom end. ported will do this but as i said will take away from  the flater output you are wanting in a true SQ build.

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sounds like i need to start making myself a nice sealed box. thanks for the help

I would model something up in WinISD before I built anything.

I'm not familiar with these woofers, but some have a flatter response in sealed boxes and some have flatter responses in ported.

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2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001

From my experience modeling the Type-X you get a fairly smooth reponse in both ported and sealed.

Personally I would recommend a ported enclosure. Something around 1.75 cubic foot tuned to 30-32Hz will give you good sound quality and also more low-end output then a sealed enclosure. The only drawback is that a ported enclosure for that sub would be much larger then a sealed enclosure. That is because you need a fairly long slot port to not have port noise.

If you want a simple enclosure then the Type-X would work pretty well in a small sealed enclosure.

length of port has nothing to do with port noise...port area is what matters.

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Custom Enclosure Design

aznboi3644 wrote:

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length of port has nothing to do with port noise...port area is what matters.

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I know that. I just meant that in order to not have port noise you need to make the port cross sectional area large. That will make the port long in order to maintain the same frequency.

Thanks for clearing that up just in case other people were confused.

well now that i decided on the sub box and setup my other problem is now that the car's electrical system most likely will not handle my plans. Will upgrading the big 3 help this on a stock alternator? and also would a kinetik power cell under the hood or in the trunk help the system out ?

djrankin004 wrote:

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well now that i decided on the sub box and setup my other problem is now that the car's electrical system most likely will not handle my plans. Will upgrading the big 3 help this on a stock alternator? and also would a kinetik power cell under the hood or in the trunk help the system out ?

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If your still running the 850rms amp doing the big 3 that would definatly not hurt. Adding just battery could be enough. But without upgrading the alt. I Think it would probably hurt more than help. Yes it will play better till the battery is drained some but then the alt is under more strain to charge both the stock and 2nd batt. I would do the big 3 see what it does and go from there with a volt meter to see what it does. But an alt is probably in your near future. Hopefully someone here will know that car better than me and be able to tell you what kind of extra current you can safely pull on it.

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what about replacing the stock battery with a kinetik battery? would that be about the same? Also i havent heard the greatest things about optima batteries. I know they are kinda two different kinds of batteries but which would help me more a kinetik or optima?

you can replace under the hood no problems. Yellow tops are nice because they are sealed so you can put them anywhere. But honestly i would not recommend them. They are pretty much marketing BS IMO. I use xstatic for all my battery upgrades. I really like there products. Kinetic i have not personally used but i have heard many good things about them with very little bad. Yes a good strong high output batt can help but its really up to if the alt can handle the amplifiers needs when its drawing power to be able to keep the battery charged.

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hmm . Just bought the car and have a warranty on everything on it(including the alternator) can you see any reason why doing the big 3 would void this warranty? Does the big 3 damage the alternator or make it do things it shouldn't?

Doing the big 3 will not hurt or harm the alt. All it does is allow current to flow more easily. It should not do anything against your warranty if you just add to the stock wiring.

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