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speaker level inputs, alpine amp

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=111703
Printed Date: September 14, 2025 at 8:33 AM


Topic: speaker level inputs, alpine amp

Posted By: nexus1155
Subject: speaker level inputs, alpine amp
Date Posted: February 17, 2009 at 7:55 PM

I've searched the forum a bunch of times and no one has really asked this/had a definitive answer. I figured I'd ask the professionals before i brought it somewhere or bought another piece of equipment.

It is a Mono block Alping amp with 4 speaker level inputs.

I have it wired as rear left and right go into the inputs <----- This makes it so i have to fade to rear for subwoofer to work properly with max juice

how i want it wired, is that it should have 8 speaker level inputs, so i can have it faded in the middle and still have the subwoofer to work properly.

Is there any way to achieve this with the current amp i have, because its a pain in the ass listening to music from the rear of the car and the passengers are like why is it so loud back here and not up there....

Thanks 12volters!!!




Replies:

Posted By: fiberglasslvr
Date Posted: February 18, 2009 at 1:37 AM
what model amp do you have?

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in process of changing everything




Posted By: nexus1155
Date Posted: February 18, 2009 at 9:27 PM

I'm glad someone replied, thanks!.... Here's the specs

Alpine MRP-M350 Specs

Operating Voltage:
14.4V DC (11V to 16V)
Rated Power @ 14.4
200 Watts into 4 Ohms, 350 Watts into 2 Ohms & 700 Watts max power

Measured Power @ 14.4 Volts 1% THD:
255.5 Watts into 4 Ohms, 396.7 Watts into 2 Ohms (Max power rating not achievable with acceptable distortion)
Current Draw @ Max Power:
21.3 amps @ 4 ohms, 36.8 @ 2 ohms
Efficiency @ Max Power:
83% @ 4 ohms, 75% @ 2 ohms
Efficiency at 1/3 rated power:
83% @ 4 ohms, 75% @ 2 ohms
Amplifier Weight:
5.5 Pounds (2.50kg)
Amplifier Dimensions:
9-1/2ˇ¨ x 2-5/16ˇ¨ x 10-1/2ˇ¨
(241mm x 60mm x 233mm )





Posted By: ragsports
Date Posted: February 20, 2009 at 8:47 AM
Im not really sure we understand what you are saying..  We need more info.  Do you have a aftermarket headunit, or are you using the factory one? Tell us as much as you can about your setup so we can help..  A rough diagram of how you have it wired my help.




Posted By: nexus1155
Date Posted: February 20, 2009 at 5:18 PM
alright so i tried to draw this out with my paint skills as best as i could, hopefully this helps you get the picture.

The only thing thats really important is that it is the amp i mentioned above connected to a Toyota Yaris factory head unit through high level speaker inputs on the amp. Let me know if i can give anymore info

What the amp has currently is a 4 wire level input i want to run 8 wires to it from the front speakers as well as rears

posted_image




Posted By: joch1314
Date Posted: February 20, 2009 at 5:32 PM

Why not just get a line out converter, then run a set of RCA's from that directly to your amps rca input.  That should fix your problem! 



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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: February 20, 2009 at 10:46 PM

If you want to use the amp's high level inputs then switch to the front speakers for signal.  The sub signal will stay as strong as the fronts and you can still fade the rears away if you want to.  You would do the same thing even if you used an aftermarket 2 ch line output converter, since your amp only accepts a L R signal.

When you run speaker wire for signal to any high level input, you should use twisted pair wire.  That is, the + and - are twisted around each other instead of running parallel  like you commonly see speaker wire.  You can buy it that way or twist it yourself.  This twisting of signal wire inhibits the induction of noise into the amplifier's input stage.  It is especially more important when you run longer runs from the front speakers back to the trunk area.

Don't splice wires together like your diagram shows.



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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: nexus1155
Date Posted: February 21, 2009 at 3:00 AM

i could run an inline converter, but was trying to see if it was attemptable with the setup i have currently

I don't see why they would make an amp where you couldn't do that

I understand you about wiring to the fronts, but wouldn't that just be shifting the problem, meaning i would have to fade to front now to get maximum power to subwoofer? then it would be overpoweringly loud in the front i would imagine.

I figured to twist the wires, but i heard only if the power wire runs the same side as the speaker wire, also its only like a 3 1/2 foot run if that.

and i wasn't going to splice wires like that im sure there would have been something bad to come of it ! hahahah, that would be the last thing i need right now!





Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: February 21, 2009 at 3:11 AM
nexus1155 wrote:

I don't see why they would make an amp where you couldn't do that


So you will buy an Alpine radio with a dedicated subwoofer output.

JBl makes several subwoofer amps with 4 input channels.






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