fuse block melting
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=112144
Printed Date: May 20, 2024 at 5:39 AM
Topic: fuse block melting
Posted By: grh372
Subject: fuse block melting
Date Posted: March 05, 2009 at 9:50 PM
just a quick question guys. i have a 2007 honda civic si and had a stereo installed and the fuse block that was installed in the 8 guage power cable about 4 inches from the battery has completely melted for the second time in a year and the fuse isnt even popped? the cable runs to the trunk where it goes into a 1 farad cap then off to two kenwood excelon amps. whats is causing this to happen?
Replies:
Posted By: j.reed
Date Posted: March 05, 2009 at 10:03 PM
What size fuse are you running? ------------- 
Posted By: grh372
Date Posted: March 05, 2009 at 10:10 PM
60 amp glass tube type fuse. the fuse survives but the stereo stops working so i open the hood and the power cable isnt attached anymore and the holder is melted and all stringy looking
Posted By: j.reed
Date Posted: March 05, 2009 at 10:17 PM
I have not used Glass fuses in..... well a very long time and never in car audio for power to an amp. I would try changing out fuse type to a Maxi or a ANL type. The fuse type its self may be the problem. -------------
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: March 05, 2009 at 10:19 PM
If you do get a new one of the same type, turn it over and tighten the screws that mount the terminals to the busbar. Resistance = Heat. Bad connections = Resistance.
Posted By: grh372
Date Posted: March 05, 2009 at 10:31 PM
Posted By: j.reed
Date Posted: March 05, 2009 at 11:00 PM
The way the glass fuse is held in place i can almost promise is your problem. Just from engine running, bumps and such causing the fuse to move just a little bit and vibrate inside the holder is enough to make a bad connection. Introducing resistance and building heat. Switch fuse types. The only fuse type i will use is ANL for my power wires. -------------
Posted By: jshultz
Date Posted: March 05, 2009 at 11:14 PM
You need to run at least a 4 gauge, 8 gauge isn't big enough for two amps.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: March 06, 2009 at 3:19 AM
Don't waste your time looking for a busbar and screws on that. That is a fuse holder, a fuse block is a a distribution block with multiple fuses mounted to it. An AGU fuse is a decent fuse, until the industry went pretty. Those fuse holders do not allow heat to escape from the fuses. As stated earlier you need a larger wire and an ANL type fuse.
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: March 06, 2009 at 9:09 AM
jshultz wrote:
You need to run at least a 4 gauge, 8 gauge isn't big enough for two amps.
That's not true at all. Power wire gauge size is determined by system current draw, not by how many components are being powered. https://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp ------------- Support the12volt.com
Posted By: mrarff
Date Posted: March 06, 2009 at 9:17 AM
Just a suggestion, see what size (amperage) fuses are in the two amplifiers. I would use the same size in my "under-hood" fuse holder.
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"That'll get ya 10 in Leavenworth,11 in Twelveworth, or 5 & 10 in Woolworth". Groucho Marx
Posted By: 04nata
Date Posted: March 06, 2009 at 10:21 AM
I went to a 80 amp circut breaker under the hood, I do not know the professional opinions on them but I love it, no having to buy fuses and just a button push I can disconnect the power when working on it. ------------- 2004 Hyundai Sonata
Kenwood KDC-X599 HU
2-Sundown X-18D4
2-SQ Q4500.1
2-SQ Q90.4
1-Massive DBX4
8-Niche 5.25 mids
8-Niche Tweeters
4-Skar 8" mid-bass
OhioGen 220a alt
OhioGen 350a alt
156.0
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: March 06, 2009 at 3:40 PM
this is a 200A circuit breaker i have, but i dont have enough current draw to justify using it.
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Posted By: grh372
Date Posted: March 06, 2009 at 6:04 PM
mrarff wrote:
Just a suggestion, see what size (amperage) fuses are in the two amplifiers. I would use the same size in my "under-hood" fuse holder.
ok i checked the amps they are both kenwood excelons and they have 3 25amp fuses in each amp so 150 amps total. so what should i get for a fuse system? 150 or higher?
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: March 06, 2009 at 10:05 PM
A 150 amp fuse is MORE than you will ever need.... but fine none the less.
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Posted By: grh372
Date Posted: March 06, 2009 at 10:26 PM
KarTuneMan wrote:
A 150 amp fuse is MORE than you will ever need.... but fine none the less.
really? what do you recommend then ?
Posted By: j.reed
Date Posted: March 06, 2009 at 10:58 PM
you going to need to switch out to 4 gauge. With your total current draw you need it. And go with a 150 amp ANL fuse. -------------
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: March 06, 2009 at 11:18 PM
yeah, the total fuse rating is not the constant current draw. maybe 120A but not 150A. if the current was maxed out all the time, your fuses on the amp would blow constantly. the fuses on the amp are a last line of defense to protect your amp and the current draw isn't ever supposed to get that high so estimate a little bit less and that is your usual current draw. but still, you should have close to a 150A main fuse at the battery. i dont like glass fuses because they might not blow all of the way and just keep a bad connection instead of blowing apart, thus making more heat, but almost any other fuse that is rate for 150A is better. ANL or MAXI fuses are better but a circuit breaker is best, but way more expensive. i got lucky and got a 200A circuit breaker for free but they are normally around $60, maybe.
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