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amp bang for the buck.

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=113645
Printed Date: April 24, 2024 at 9:10 PM


Topic: amp bang for the buck.

Posted By: ken_woofers.
Subject: amp bang for the buck.
Date Posted: May 06, 2009 at 9:17 PM

I'm putting a new system in my car, but don't have a whole bunch of money. I have 2 Kenwood 10' that run at 300 watts continuous. They're dual voice coil and 4 ohm subs. What kind of amp do I get to keep them sounding decent but keep my wallet from hurting. Lets go with 300 dollars max. If I wire them parallel, they should only put a 1 ohm load on a mono amp correct? Right now Im looking at Rockfor Fosgate, Alpine and Infinity. Someone help.



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Serielle Verkabelung



Replies:

Posted By: djrankin004
Date Posted: May 07, 2009 at 1:10 AM
most of the brands you are looking at run at only 2 ohm stable. you can present a 1 or 4 ohm load. Hifonics and Mtx are some of the names i can think of that support 1 ohm loads




Posted By: sappy31
Date Posted: May 07, 2009 at 1:23 AM
Memphis car audio and DB have some class D amps that are1ohm stable.

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John




Posted By: truebassjunkie7
Date Posted: May 07, 2009 at 2:07 AM
How good are elementaldesigns amps? i know they have a good warranty,but are they as good as they say??? i have a elementaldeisgns nine.2x amp and it was powering a kenwood KFC3011 12 4 ohms single vc. The amp required soo much juice!!! I have a small alternater, I have all rockford wire and an optima red top up front. I think im gonna go back to memphis audio

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Posted By: pheonixgd
Date Posted: May 07, 2009 at 4:37 PM
Running a 1 ohm load on a smaller amp can be pretty strenuous on the amp, as far as bang for the buck goes, the Jbl amps use to be a good bang for the buck posted_image




Posted By: joch1314
Date Posted: May 07, 2009 at 7:18 PM
Why not wire them up for 4 ohms and get a 2channel amp and bridge the channels.  you'll get pretty decent output and should be lighter on your wallet too.  Also, your amp will run cooler preventing any thermal shutdown problems that might occur from running an amp at 1 ohm.  just a thought... 

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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..




Posted By: bumpinexploder
Date Posted: May 07, 2009 at 7:25 PM
Directed D1200 is the way to go. bench tested at 694 watts when i had mine on 2 cvrs. 143.7 on a term lab. 1 ohm stable and ran cool all day. 4 gauge connections and only like 75-110 bucks on fleabay. amps made by orion so you know its good quality. one of the best bang for your buck DEFINATLY

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Pioneer DEH-400UB
Kicker 150.2 mids/highs amp
MB Quart fsa 216 front stage
AudioPipe gd-6001 mono amp
AUDIOQUE SD 15S PREFAB BOX!
C&D Technologies Battery, 1500 CCA, 134 amp storage
149.5 DB's




Posted By: truebassjunkie7
Date Posted: May 07, 2009 at 9:38 PM
The was @4OHMs So i dont know why it would have thermal shut down?

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Posted By: ken_woofers.
Date Posted: May 07, 2009 at 9:39 PM

Just figured out my subs are SVC. I took them out of the box and sure enough they only have one coil. But, applying the suggestions, if Ibridge them on a 2 channel amp and wire in a series it creates an 8 ohm load? correct? That'll make the amp run cooler and wont drain my battery as quickly. So as far as power goes... 300 rms per sub. Does this mean I need an amp that runs 600 continuously? Not very many subs have specifications for SVC.



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Serielle Verkabelung




Posted By: bumpinexploder
Date Posted: May 07, 2009 at 9:53 PM
in that case you can get a kicker 600.1 for like 100- 150 bucks.

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Pioneer DEH-400UB
Kicker 150.2 mids/highs amp
MB Quart fsa 216 front stage
AudioPipe gd-6001 mono amp
AUDIOQUE SD 15S PREFAB BOX!
C&D Technologies Battery, 1500 CCA, 134 amp storage
149.5 DB's




Posted By: truebassjunkie7
Date Posted: May 08, 2009 at 2:00 AM
I got a memphis 500/1 now and i wont have any problems with that amp

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Posted By: joch1314
Date Posted: May 08, 2009 at 1:55 PM

Since they are 4 ohm svc's then wire them in parallel and get yourself a mono amp.  It'll put your impedance at 2 ohms and be an almost perfect match for a lot of mono amps that run best at 2 ohms.  You shouldn't have a problem with overheating and depending on the amp, (and enclosure) you should have some pretty nice bump! 



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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..




Posted By: ken_woofers.
Date Posted: May 09, 2009 at 12:01 PM

Alright, Kenwood just came out with a 600 watt amp that is mono and itll run stable at 2 Ohms. Im pretty sure Im gonna go with it. Its only about 150, and itll run 250 cont. into each speaker. I'm building my boxes today and I might get the amp too. Thanks for the help guys!



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Posted By: truebassjunkie7
Date Posted: May 10, 2009 at 6:10 AM
I have one sub,SVC. The memphis amp is a class D mono!!!I plan on running 4 SVC subs on it @ 1 OHM!!!

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Posted By: truebassjunkie7
Date Posted: May 10, 2009 at 6:13 AM
If it says 2OHM stable then It isnt real class D. It is mosfet technology. A real class D amp wont get hot @ low OHMs, And can run 1 OHM no problem. With a mono mosfet amp you are limited due to the OHM load!!

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Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: May 10, 2009 at 6:59 AM
Not all class D amplifiers are stable into a 1 ohm load.




Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: May 10, 2009 at 9:21 AM
truebassjunkie7 wrote:

If it says 2OHM stable then It isnt real class D. It is mosfet technology. A real class D amp wont get hot @ low OHMs, And can run 1 OHM no problem. With a mono mosfet amp you are limited due to the OHM load!!

What? It is obvious from praddling like that, you have no idea what you are talking about. NOTHING that you just said makes any sense, and what did make a LITTLE sense wasn't even true!

1: There are "real" Class D amplifiers that are only rated to run 8 ohm loads. The impedance into which an amplifier is specified to run safely is Z-E-R-O indication of the class with which it is designed. It is an indication of the capabilities of the power supply, and/or the current capabilites of the output devices themselves, but it CANNOT in any way, shape, or form, tell you the class in which they are running.

2: MOSFET (Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor) is the type of device used in either the outputs or power supply drivers. It is a transistor type. There are still plenty of amplifiers made that use standard NPN and PNP transistors, and don't even come near the MOSFET technology.

3: ANY class of amplifier is limited by the impedance. It is STILL based on the capabilities of the POWER SUPPLY, and is no indication of the class of the output stages, whether Class A (the least efficient of audio amplifier classes) or Class D (the most efficient).

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: sappy31
Date Posted: May 10, 2009 at 9:42 AM
You are dangerous, you think you know more than you do and are giving BAD advice. haemphyst is right you cant tell a class bt the Ohm load.


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John




Posted By: Blowntweeters
Date Posted: May 10, 2009 at 8:54 PM
https://www.ikesound.com/kenwood_kac_x10d i would consider this amp. i would also consider a amp that is 1200rms and stable @1 ohm to add 2 more svc 4 ohm subs.

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700




Posted By: pmh61
Date Posted: May 11, 2009 at 3:45 AM
If you don't mind orange you can pick some good gear from quantum audio.




Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: May 12, 2009 at 12:23 PM
truebassjunkie7 wrote:

If it says 2OHM stable then It isnt real class D. It is mosfet technology. A real class D amp wont get hot @ low OHMs, And can run 1 OHM no problem. With a mono mosfet amp you are limited due to the OHM load!!


Do you even know what a mosfet is??

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Custom Enclosure Design




Posted By: truebassjunkie7
Date Posted: May 12, 2009 at 8:16 PM
Ok i admit that i was wrong about the class D thing. I never had a problem with thermal on a amp that was 1 ohm stable.

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Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: May 12, 2009 at 10:03 PM
And...? I've seen DOZENS of MOSFET based amplifiers that were .5 ohm stable, the original Orion 225HCCA comes to mind. Even as hot as that beast ran, it was still stable at that impedance. I personally ran mine at .25 ohms per channel! It required forced cooling at loads like that, but it never shut down. Four Red Line 4-ohm DVC 12's, bridged! I swapped the original 12G posted_image power cable for an 8G, and it ran like a top. (Ahhh, the good old days, when amps were AMPS, and Audiobahn was scared!) Back then, Class D was in it's VERY infancy... Likely still on the drawing board.

My apologies for calling you out like I did; I hate generalizations, and I am not afraid to call people out when they are wrong.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: truebassjunkie7
Date Posted: May 12, 2009 at 10:34 PM
I am not scared to admit that i was wrong, that part of being a man lol. I know that i will get the best advice on this site.

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Posted By: ken_woofers.
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 9:56 PM
so... anyways. I ended up getting a 2 channel kenwood that runs 500 watt to a svc bridged, bridging the subs in parallel and I got some pretty nice thump. now theres another problem. I can only turn them to about +3 with medium volume on my headunit (runs from -10 to +10) before the inline fuse in the 4 guage power for my amp blows. Does this mean I need a thicked power chord? Or is my amp not meant to put out that kind of power. If Im right...which I may not be, the wiring should only put 250 max on each sub which are rated at 300 rms. Shouldnt be a problem..but it is? Maybe Im wrong. HALP.

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Posted By: sappy31
Date Posted: May 13, 2009 at 11:15 PM
well if your kenwood is a 2 channel amp and it is rated at 500 watts in 4 ohm mono but you are driving it into a 2 ohm mono load by parralleling your 2 subs. if this is correct and you keep blowing your fuse then it may only be rated at 4 ohm mono and not 2ohm mono, by running it at 2 ohm mono and it isnt designed for this load then this is the reason for your fuse blowing. try taking it back to a 4 ohm mono load with just the 1 woofer and see what happens to the fuse. if it does not blow then you know you can only run it at 4 ohm mono. so either just use the one sub or use 1 sub per channel. most amps that are 2 channel will only do a 4 ohm mono load. NOT all of them but most of them.

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John




Posted By: truebassjunkie7
Date Posted: May 18, 2009 at 3:50 AM
I was wondering if i could run 3 12's of a mono amp? and at what ohm will it be? It is 1 ohm stable. and the subs are dual 4 ohm.thanks

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Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: May 18, 2009 at 6:30 AM

Yes you can run 3 Dual 4s on a 1 ohm stable amp.  Your outcome will be 2.66 ohms. 

Option 1 (series/parallel) = 2.67 ohm load
Voice coils wired in series, speakers wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 2 or 1 ohm mono
posted_image
 





Posted By: ken_woofers.
Date Posted: May 18, 2009 at 9:04 PM
my problem is not the resistance. the amp is stable at that load. only when I push the subs volume is there a possibility of that fuse blowing, and they get pretty damn loud before that. is kenwood wrong about the resistance rating? or am I wrong, with something... read up for specifications.

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