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hifonics brutus 1210d

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=113852
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 5:18 AM


Topic: hifonics brutus 1210d

Posted By: wheelerdr
Subject: hifonics brutus 1210d
Date Posted: May 17, 2009 at 8:16 AM

to start things off. I bought 2 12" kickers and a prefab enclosure to go under my seat of my 2006 chevy crew cab pickup and a american pro 2000watt amp for 200.00 not bad. only one channel on the amp worked so I had to wire them in series for a 4 ohm load. just tonight I bought a hifonics brutus 1210D. pulled the subs out and wired them in parrallel for a 1 ohm load. this inclosure is a sealed single chamber with polly fill. my problem is that it seems that the american pro amp seems to hit harder than the hifonics amp. the american pro is rated at 300 watts rms at 4 ohm and the hifonics amp rated at 1200 watts at 1 ohm rms is probably between 700 and 800 rms about 80% of overrated specs. could there be something wrong with this amp or setup wrong and setting help would be great. ie subsonic, bass eq, low pass.
setting right now
subsonic set to 15hz
bass eq set to 0
low pass at 12 oclock position
phase set to 0
level gain set to around 12 oclock
have the boos control pluged in and set to max seems no difference in pluged in or not should i even plug this thing in.any help would be great It seems these two subs should shake this truck apart even in a sealed enclosure.



Replies:

Posted By: ragsports
Date Posted: May 17, 2009 at 8:35 AM
Make sure your subwoofers are running in phase with eachother. If they are running out of phase this could cause a decrease in spl. Try switching the positive and negative on one of the subwoofers and see if that makes it better or worse. If worse wire it back the way you had it. Let us know what happens.




Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: May 17, 2009 at 9:22 AM
I too vote for phasing issues.




Posted By: wheelerdr
Date Posted: May 17, 2009 at 12:21 PM
ok. I have changed the + and - around seemed worse. ok I turned up the gain a little more and seem to have it wright hitts pretty good. I have the passenger side does not hit or move as far or as fast as the driverside. I switched the subs and same result. tried the phase on the amp and nothing. I pulled out all polly fill and same result. it does seem that the enclosure on the passenger side is smaller than the dirverside. but total enclosure is one single chanber. I called the person whom I bought this setup from and was told that he bought it at our local kicker dealer this is the sub enclosure they sell for these subs, for our 2006 chevy crew cab under the seat subs firing into the seat. I switched the audio cables around and installed new ones with no change anyhelp would be great really need to get this thing tuned asap.




Posted By: icearrow6
Date Posted: May 17, 2009 at 1:43 PM
....try this.

Connect the woofers in parallel...(2 ohm load)
Then to your box terminals.

Now connect the speakers in parallel again, but instead of going to the amp connect one of the box terminals to the other and from there run a single speaker cable to the amp. (1 ohm load)

On the amp connect the speaker cable on the outer +. and -.
The outputs of the amp read [+][+] [-][-] so connect the single speaker lead coming from your box on the outer two. Don't cut any wiring yet until you check the sound.

Also, my second suggestion if this doesn't work is try to split one of the RCA's using a Y-splitter. (mono input)


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Posted By: wheelerdr
Date Posted: May 17, 2009 at 3:35 PM
ok it only seems that this happens on certian cd, like bass mechanic and my food for your woofers. could this be that at certian hz that the enclosure on the passenger side cannot hit these notes. i recently filled the enclosure throuout with polly fill to see if this would help and nothing. hits a lot harder now that i wirred both subs together in parrallel and only have one set of wires going to the amp in mono. unlike eariler i had both subs eired at 2 ohm then going to the amp in parallel using all 4 terminals. I switched subs again and the same thing. it has to do with somithing on the amp hz wise or the enclosure. I can see that the driverside is larger than the passenger side but do dividing wall both subs use the same air space but on the passenger side the enclosure narrows down to about 3 inches. will this have any effect on the one sub




Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: May 17, 2009 at 4:42 PM

Are the speakers dual or single voice coil drivers?





Posted By: icearrow6
Date Posted: May 17, 2009 at 5:09 PM
wheelerdr wrote:

hits a lot harder now that i wirred both subs together in parrallel and only have one set of wires going to the amp in mono.


Awesome...

Do you have a DMM? (multi meter?)
Measure the coil's resistance....it might be that you accidentally got a dual 4 ohm and a dual 2 ohm speaker.
Measure the OHMS on each of the coils of both speakers...

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Posted By: wheelerdr
Date Posted: May 17, 2009 at 9:09 PM
nope both are dual 4 ohm and I have it to a 1 ohm load but still passenger side sub still does not move very much when the driver side sub has about 1 inch excursion. how would I go about setting the gains with the multimeter what am i looking for




Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: May 17, 2009 at 9:19 PM
Disconnect the speaker wires from the amp.  Now touch and hold the negative speaker wire to the ground terminal (not the negative speaker terminal, but the large ground terminal next to the large power terminal) of the amplifier.  Now briefly touch the positive speaker wire to the positive power wire terminal of the amp.  Both woofers should move away from the magnets.  I am betting that the passenger speaker has one of the coils wired backwards, it is probably going to move inward just a bit while the other speaker is going to move away from the magnet.




Posted By: wheelerdr
Date Posted: May 18, 2009 at 11:05 AM

ok I put the negativ on the negative and the positive on the positive and full excursion on both subs. I checked my gain setting with the dmm and I have 45.6 volts im not sure how many watts rms this would be but I thought at 1ohm 30  watts would give you about 900 watts. this amp must be a beast I hear no distortion when bas hits nice and clean. It does hit pretty hard I just thought I would get more punch out of this. it just seem the passenger sub only does not have full excursion at certian hz while the driver sub has good excursion I think it has to be in the enclosure. any thoughts

when i tested the load on the subs that should be at 1 ohm my dmm registered at 1.8 ohms





Posted By: ragsports
Date Posted: May 18, 2009 at 5:43 PM
Did you check to see if both coils are functioning properly? You may have previously burned up one of the coils on the subwoofer with less excursion.. Make sure one coil isent fried. you can do this buy just hooking the coils up one at a time and seeing if the subwoofer will play, or just measure the resistance with a ohm meter, they should read around 4 ohms for each seperate coil.




Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: May 18, 2009 at 8:55 PM
If the subwoofers sound different with it wired the way you have it now than it was not wired in parallel from the beginning.


Doesn't matter if you run two sets of wires to the amp or one...there is no difference if it is a 1 ohm load.   Besides the lower resistance with two sets of wire. But that is negligible.

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Custom Enclosure Design




Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: May 18, 2009 at 9:20 PM
wheelerdr wrote:

when i tested the load on the subs that should be at 1 ohm my dmm registered at 1.8 ohms






Your meter measures the DC resistance of the voice coils. Impedance is an AC measurement. 1.8 does seem more like a reading of 3 4ohm coils (1.66). You may have an open voice coil on the passenger speaker.




Posted By: wheelerdr
Date Posted: May 18, 2009 at 9:28 PM
will check all 4 coils and get back with you. Could this just be the enclosure sinc if i move the driverside sub to the passenger side spot it will do the same thing. And my amp sound better when I wired them that way I set the gain to 30volts. with a 50 hz 0 db sine wave. It seems to hit alot harder at 45 volts but I was told from local shop that 30 volts is 900 watts and that is just about right for my subs. I have no bass boost on or bass eq all is at 0. sound clear just not as loud as I think it should be. Maybe im just trying to compar this system to my 2005 chevy caviler that i had with a rockford fosgate p3 dual 2 ohm wired at 1 ohm with a kenwood excelon 811d at 1 ohm. that rattted everything within 10 feet of the car.





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