redid my plan, opinions?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=114317
Printed Date: May 02, 2024 at 4:24 PM
Topic: redid my plan, opinions?
Posted By: jdalphin
Subject: redid my plan, opinions?
Date Posted: June 08, 2009 at 6:07 PM
I'm planning on getting: 1 x https://www.---/bxi2608d.aspx (amp) or 1 x https://www.---/ov1-3000d.aspx (amp) 2 x https://www.---/08s12l74.aspx (subs) Not sure about the wiring....what do you recommend from that site? I'm looking at either https://www.---/theinstallbayak02.aspx or https://www.---/theinstallbayak01.aspx. I'm also planning on getting a 200 amp alternator...so that'll save my electrical/charging system. This is how I'm going to wire them following the diagram below 
My questions are: 1) Is that a good way to wire those subs? 2) Appoximately how many watts will those subs be getting? Is it to much or not enough? 3) What kind of box do you recommend and approximately what size? I'm looking for volume and quality. This isn't a system to win a dbDrag or anything. I'll be using it daily. But of course I'd like to see it in the 140+ db area. If thats possible with that setup. Atleast get some flex out of the roof, windshield (maybe), and windows. Lol. Mostly for doodies and giggles. 4) A head unit...how many channels should I look at? I've got two from door speakers, and two rear speakers, as well as 1 x amp that will be coming along with the build. So should I get a 5 channel, or 6 channel? 5) Between the two amps above, which would be my better buy, the 2.6kw hifonics or the 3k PA amp? I like the bass knob option as well as the lower price considering I'm on a tight budget. That's about it for now, any other help would be awesome.
Replies:
Posted By: jdalphin
Date Posted: June 08, 2009 at 6:15 PM
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_077ITS301D/Valor-ITS-301D.html?tp=5684&tab=review How's that look for a reciever? 15 watss RMS/35 watts peak x 4 channels. Will that power all 4 of my door speakers which have a 20w RMS and 30w Peak?
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: June 08, 2009 at 8:27 PM
OMG... I wish Kicker, HiFonics and PA would all just go out of business...
You've been misled, my son.
HOW MUCH do you want to spend? Let's start there. The gear you have selected presently will have you as far from any sound quality as you can get. Your list will get you nothing but SPL whatever way you go.
And that deck? Ummm... How do I say this...? You'd buy that at the Swap-o-Rama's swapmeet. It's craptastic.
The ONLY thing you have mentioned that I agree with compeletely is the 200A alternator.
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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: spmpdr
Date Posted: June 08, 2009 at 10:12 PM
yeah what haemphyst said!!!!! there was so much crap on that i wanted to wipe it.lol
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-A vision without a plan is just a hallucination-
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 08, 2009 at 10:21 PM
Valor radios have a 0/1 record in my experience. ive only done one and i wont do another.
200 amp alternator is a good idea.
if you had to get one of those 2 amps i would get the hifonics, but there would also be someone behind me with a knife to my throat.
be prepared to give those L7's a nice big box if you want them to sound right. do you have the space for at least a 4 cubic foot box( more if it is to be ported)?
lastly, i would forget any thoughts of using that bass knob. they are a marketing tool that get people to buy amps and they cause more problems than they are worth. they should be sold as a self destruct knob for your subs.
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Posted By: jdalphin
Date Posted: June 09, 2009 at 9:02 AM
Alright...I'll poke around for some different head units. As for subs:
https://www.-.com/pxw1252.aspx
https://www.-.com/swr-1242d.aspx
https://www.-.com/powerseriesp1224.aspx
https://www.-.com/p3d412.aspx
Which to get?
Posted By: jdalphin
Date Posted: June 09, 2009 at 9:15 AM
What the hell...am I the only one who notices that the links are screwed up? I'll repost what I found later if they aren't working.
Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: June 09, 2009 at 9:20 AM
Please post the model numbers instead of links. -------------  the12volt • Support the12volt.com
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: June 09, 2009 at 11:12 AM
The site to which you are linking is "dubious", or contains links to sites that are. The12volt filters these types of sites to protect members, as well as prevent unauthorized sales and purchases.
Since these are filtered for these reasons, you might consider carefully purchasing any gear from them...
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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: jdalphin
Date Posted: June 09, 2009 at 12:27 PM
haemphyst wrote:
The site to which you are linking is "dubious", or contains links to sites that are. The12volt filters these types of sites to protect members, as well as prevent unauthorized sales and purchases.
Since these are filtered for these reasons, you might consider carefully purchasing any gear from them...
Thanks for the information. I'll dig it up and post the actual names of the stuff.
Posted By: jdalphin
Date Posted: June 09, 2009 at 12:35 PM
Amplifier - Hifonics Brutus BXi2608D Head Unit - Pioneer DEH-P7000BT 2 x 12" Subs - Alpine SWR-1242D, Rockford Fosgate P3D412, Clarion PXW1252, JBL Power Series P1224, or 2 Kicker Solobaric L7 Wiring Kit - The Install Bay AK02 or The Install Bay AK01 That help? The reason I have so many subs listed, is because I'm looking for good quality, as well as some power to get things moving/virbrating. Lol.
Posted By: jdalphin
Date Posted: June 09, 2009 at 12:40 PM
I do appologize for the tripple post, but I just found out the P7000BT is discontinued. Replace that with the P6000UB by Pioneer.
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: June 09, 2009 at 9:44 PM
Ummm... you won't find a lot of Pioneer fans here, either...
WHATEVER YOU DO, AND THIS IS IMPERATIVE!!! Remove the negative battery cable from the battery BEFORE YOU CONNECT THE PIONEER RADIO! I stress that like I do, because if you don't, you run a FAR better-than-even-chance of popping the ground traces in the outputs of your deck, and ending up with nasty alternator whine.
Pioneer has never fixed this issue, and there are no problems (generally) with them, except this. Not my first choice in decks, but aight, on a budget. Also, you'll have to remember to remove the terminal whenever you connect or disconnect your RCA cables.
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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: jdalphin
Date Posted: June 14, 2009 at 9:19 PM
Well...for me, the deck will get the job done. Now, on the topic of subs. How do the ones I listed above look? Good quality subs, or are they SPL?
Posted By: jdalphin
Date Posted: July 09, 2009 at 8:41 PM
I'm leaning towards the hifonics subs because they are cheaper, but I also like the SPL sub I found. Amp #1 = Crunch p1500.1 (RMS 750 x 1 @ 1ohm here) Amp #2 = Power Acoustik BAMF-2000/1D (RMS 1200 x 1 @ 1ohm here) Subs #1 = Hifonics B12D4 (600W RMS, Dual 4-ohm here) Subs #2 = SPL SP2-12 (600W RMS, Dual 4-ohm here) I'm leaning towards the PA amp as it will hit the RMS of both subs w/ 1200 watt RMS, and it's peak output is well below the max of both subs. What do you guys think? Good setup? And I'm thinking a ported box with a 3" diameter port tuned to 34hz with a volume of 2.6 ft^3 (31 x 14 x 14. It's the best I can do with the doodiety cargo space I have in my car.) made out of 3/4" MDF. The biggest box I could fit in my car is 32.5 x 15.5 x 14, and that's stretching it.
Posted By: whiterob
Date Posted: July 10, 2009 at 3:04 AM
I'm not a fan of Hifonics and I'm sure a lot of other people on here feel the same. I don't totally disown them as there is much worse out there but you can do better.
From what I understand this system is designed more for SPL/loudness then sound quality. Although I do understand you are looking for a daily driver and not a competition vehicle.
To start with, look into some new companies. Yes the brands you are looking at are cheaper but there is a reason for that. You can get some better equipment for not much more. Look at a couple of the brands below and see if there is something you like.
FI Car Audio - www.ficaraudio.com
Audioque - www.audioque.com
Digital Designs - www.ddaudio.com
There are plenty more as well...
The subs you are looking at are not bad but you can do better. The Type-Rs, Rockford Fosgates, and JBLs are not going to be "loud" setups. I quoted loud because it depends on your personal opinion. To me those setups are more then enough to satisfy most people. However, if you are looking for loudness and possible roof flexing then you to look at different subs. The Kickers would be closer to what you may be looking for. The other brands I listed would also have subs better for that type of loudness.
The AK01 amp kit is a pretty nice kit. I have used it in a couple of installs and works well for a cheaper 1/0 gauge amp kit.
Posted By: jdalphin
Date Posted: July 10, 2009 at 12:53 PM
I'm gonna have to go against what you recommended. I'm on a REALLY tight budget at the moment. What I have settled on is the:
1 x Power Acoustik BAMF-2000/1D amp (1200 watts RMS @ 1 ohm, 2000 Max)
2 x SPL SP2-12 12" 4 Ohm DVC (600 watt RMS, 1400 watt MAX)
1 x Install Bay AK4 (4 Gauge)
1 x Pioneer DEH-4000UB head unit w/ GEX-P10HD HD tuner
One guy said to go with a 600 watt amp for those subs, which in my mind was completely way to low. I then contacted Crutchfield, and they said to get the RF T1500-1bd amp (which is way the hell out of my price range). 1500 watts RMS @ 1 ohm confirmed my thought. So, I dug up the PA BAMF-2000/1D amp which you can see it's specs above. My final questions are:
1) Will that amp be perfectly fine for the subs I want? RMS is covered. 300 watts per voice coil (600 per sub), and if it was hitting its peak power, it'd only be 1000 watts per sub. So it looks safe to me. What do you guys think?
2) Will that install kit work with that amp? At Sonic Electronix, under the Accessories tab, it shows two different 4 gauge kits.
3) The box I have described below, will that be good? Tuning gonna give me what I want? And enough air for the subs? Oh, and which way should I have the subs in it? Towards the roof, or towards the back?
Box Type: Ported
Port Diam: 3"
Port Length: 4" approx (tuning = 34hz)
Volume: 2.6 ft^3 (31" x 14" x 14")
Material: 3/4" MDF
Posted By: ianarian
Date Posted: July 10, 2009 at 7:26 PM
In low quality defense....Id like to Opiniarian that: High quality not professionally installed is worse than low quality installed without professionalism! Anyone seen my 3rd star? Dammit! Who's butt I gotta kiss for another star?
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This is what I do for FUN!
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: July 10, 2009 at 8:16 PM
ianarian wrote:
In low quality defense....Id like to Opiniarian that: High quality not professionally installed is worse than low quality installed without professionalism! Anyone seen my 3rd star? Dammit! Who's butt I gotta kiss for another star?
you gotta be a leiutenant before you can be a general man. -------------
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: July 10, 2009 at 8:20 PM
jdalphin wrote:
I'm gonna have to go against what you recommended. I'm on a REALLY tight budget at the moment. What I have settled on is the:
1 x Power Acoustik BAMF-2000/1D amp (1200 watts RMS @ 1 ohm, 2000 Max)
2 x SPL SP2-12 12" 4 Ohm DVC (600 watt RMS, 1400 watt MAX)
1 x Install Bay AK4 (4 Gauge)
1 x Pioneer DEH-4000UB head unit w/ GEX-P10HD HD tuner
One guy said to go with a 600 watt amp for those subs, which in my mind was completely way to low. I then contacted Crutchfield, and they said to get the RF T1500-1bd amp (which is way the hell out of my price range). 1500 watts RMS @ 1 ohm confirmed my thought. So, I dug up the PA BAMF-2000/1D amp which you can see it's specs above. My final questions are:
1) Will that amp be perfectly fine for the subs I want? RMS is covered. 300 watts per voice coil (600 per sub), and if it was hitting its peak power, it'd only be 1000 watts per sub. So it looks safe to me. What do you guys think?
2) Will that install kit work with that amp? At Sonic Electronix, under the Accessories tab, it shows two different 4 gauge kits.
3) The box I have described below, will that be good? Tuning gonna give me what I want? And enough air for the subs? Oh, and which way should I have the subs in it? Towards the roof, or towards the back?
Box Type: Ported
Port Diam: 3"
Port Length: 4" approx (tuning = 34hz)
Volume: 2.6 ft^3 (31" x 14" x 14")
Material: 3/4" MDF
make sure you set your gains the right way and dont abuse your subs too much and you should be fine. i understand not everybody is looking for top of the line equipment but in my opinion you CAN do better. everything that's shiny isn't gold. -------------
Posted By: bigjohnny
Date Posted: July 10, 2009 at 8:39 PM
if your going to get a HO alternator PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE go with DC Power engineering, these guys are amazing, the alts are rock solid beasts and I don't think you will ever find anyone willing to go to the extent that Rob at DC power does.
if you talk to Rob at DC please also mention that BigJohnny referred you. I assure you I get absolutely nothing from it, however Rob did me a HUGE HUGE HUGE favor and has been such an awesome guy to deal with that I feel I owe it to him to send some business his way.
If you go with these guys for an alt, I promise you, you will NOT regret it.
Posted By: jdalphin
Date Posted: July 10, 2009 at 11:18 PM
soundnsecurity wrote:
jdalphin wrote:
I'm gonna have to go against what you recommended. I'm on a REALLY tight budget at the moment. What I have settled on is the:
1 x Power Acoustik BAMF-2000/1D amp (1200 watts RMS @ 1 ohm, 2000 Max)
2 x SPL SP2-12 12" 4 Ohm DVC (600 watt RMS, 1400 watt MAX)
1 x Install Bay AK4 (4 Gauge)
1 x Pioneer DEH-4000UB head unit w/ GEX-P10HD HD tuner
One guy said to go with a 600 watt amp for those subs, which in my mind was completely way to low. I then contacted Crutchfield, and they said to get the RF T1500-1bd amp (which is way the hell out of my price range). 1500 watts RMS @ 1 ohm confirmed my thought. So, I dug up the PA BAMF-2000/1D amp which you can see it's specs above. My final questions are:
1) Will that amp be perfectly fine for the subs I want? RMS is covered. 300 watts per voice coil (600 per sub), and if it was hitting its peak power, it'd only be 1000 watts per sub. So it looks safe to me. What do you guys think?
2) Will that install kit work with that amp? At Sonic Electronix, under the Accessories tab, it shows two different 4 gauge kits.
3) The box I have described below, will that be good? Tuning gonna give me what I want? And enough air for the subs? Oh, and which way should I have the subs in it? Towards the roof, or towards the back?
Box Type: Ported
Port Diam: 3"
Port Length: 4" approx (tuning = 34hz)
Volume: 2.6 ft^3 (31" x 14" x 14")
Material: 3/4" MDF
make sure you set your gains the right way and dont abuse your subs too much and you should be fine. i understand not everybody is looking for top of the line equipment but in my opinion you CAN do better. everything that's shiny isn't gold.
Well yes, but if I had a tad bit more cash on hand, I'd be running a RF T4000, 2 BTL 12"s (or 18"s if I felt like ripping out my back seat and making an überbox!), a 220 amp iraggi alternator, and probably a crap load more.
I've also changed the build plan for my box. Here it is:
Type: Ported
Volume: 3 ft^3
Port: 32hz @ 3" in diameter x 4" long
Material: 3/4" MDF
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: July 11, 2009 at 12:28 AM
if a "tad bit more cash" is worth saving up to you then i would wait until you had a tad bit more cash
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Posted By: ianarian
Date Posted: July 11, 2009 at 1:43 AM
BUILD PLAN!!
Buy each component and its entirety, progressively. Dont come home with 2 subs, a amp and deck, broke! Install all wire and sound proof BEFORE you buy amps and subs. Brands mean nothing without certified install. I guarantee your install integrity will increase if you break it down to sequence. Too many people go buy a nice shiny amp and throw in some cable and expect wonders. Lets see what you can run after we know you can run it. Foundation!
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This is what I do for FUN!
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: July 11, 2009 at 12:59 PM
ianarian wrote:
BUILD PLAN!!
Buy each component and its entirety, progressively. Dont come home with 2 subs, a amp and deck, broke! Install all wire and sound proof BEFORE you buy amps and subs. Brands mean nothing without certified install. I guarantee your install integrity will increase if you break it down to sequence. Too many people go buy a nice shiny amp and throw in some cable and expect wonders. Lets see what you can run after we know you can run it. Foundation!
i would have to disagree with the progressive install theory. installs come out a lot better if the whole thing gets done at the same time. that way you have all the equipment on hand so you can test fit the amps in the spots where you want them before you run wire just to realize the amp wont fit where you want it. you can also run the wires at the same time which ends up being less work in the long run and you dont have to take the car apart more than once. -------------
Posted By: jdalphin
Date Posted: July 13, 2009 at 11:20 AM
What's your opinions on the Alpine Type R's and Type X's?
Posted By: ianarian
Date Posted: July 13, 2009 at 5:41 PM
I hear ya on the test fit theory. The way I see it, once you know the level your taking it too.. cable pathways through vehicle typically are standard. Necessary changes that are required and wire type/sizes are mathematically decided for you.. You can draw your amp on a piece of cardboard if it helps you determine how to get the wire there. 
Downside- is 1 solid piece door panels(i left a coil of cable to reach the speaker later) Or your choice requires a special cable(LPL, Volt-Monitor). Chances are what ever additions installed will be on top of what you need to remove to do wire and sound proofing. ------------- This is what I do for FUN!
Posted By: ianarian
Date Posted: July 13, 2009 at 5:59 PM
Well at least the last 3 installs I did in this fashion. With a little waiting period between stages. Its been a cool feeling to be able to throw in brand new stuff without the hardest part(preparations) being added to it. The turn out is what I guess was the best. The applications allowed for the process to work too. We were able to access the mounting locations via grill covers and such. 1 required just the cutouts to the amp cover left to do.
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This is what I do for FUN!
Posted By: thatfloorguy
Date Posted: July 13, 2009 at 6:20 PM
Depends on who is doing the install. A young buck doing it themselves will generally rush through it making mistakes and giving up quality just to hear it bang. I have done my own and was very thorough and patient. (this time anyway)  , My first time was a disaster though.
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: July 13, 2009 at 8:50 PM
jdalphin wrote:
What's your opinions on the Alpine Type R's and Type X's?
decent all around subs. not awesome at anything, but i cant really say anything bad about them either. -------------
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