f 350 diesel severe interference
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=114450
Printed Date: May 16, 2025 at 6:41 PM
Topic: f 350 diesel severe interference
Posted By: nfrank89
Subject: f 350 diesel severe interference
Date Posted: June 14, 2009 at 4:57 PM
The vehicle:
2001 Ford F-350 Super Duty Diesel 7.2ltr
The System:
Pioneer AVIC-f700BT
Rockford fosgate amps, 2ch and a 4ch and a .5f cap
The problem:
this problem started when i was installing an starter kill switch using the wires at the ignition harness. i was testing the switch so i was cycling the ignition. i turned the truck off then to run and had a significant amount of interference that hadnt been there just a few moments ago.
here's what ive done so far to narrow down the problem:
regrounded the head unit
checked amp grounds. good
ran rca directly to the amp, still buzzed.
there is absolutely no interference in ACC, only in RUN
i pulled the radio fuse and the buzzing still existed
so i started pulling fuses until the buzzing sound went away and i found that the circuit causing the interference is 30amp fuse that controls the fuel heater, wastegate solenoid, and the injector driver module relay. This is all diesil only equipment.
i pulled out the injector driver relay and that eliminated half of the interference but not all of it. i dont know what the wastegate is and the fuel heater im assuming isnt active because it's a warm day. also, when the 30 amp fuse is pulled the wait to start light doesn't come on. the sound doesn't seem to be following anything as far as i can see. when the truck is running turning on the AC or anything else that draws a lot of power changes the tone of the interference.
so this is where i'm at now, i tried disconnecting the kill switch and checked all the wiring and its fine so i know its not the kill switch. i dont know what to do next... any help at all would be greatly appreciated, i think my client is scared i really messed something up do i want to get it fixed asap!
Replies:
Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: June 14, 2009 at 5:03 PM
So it does this with the truck off...But in run position...? Or only w/ truck running?
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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 14, 2009 at 5:07 PM
Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 14, 2009 at 7:37 PM
Okay heres what it sounds like, in the video it's a lot louder than it actually is.
annoying interference
Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 14, 2009 at 7:39 PM
in acc mode: no interference
off position : no interference
in run w/truck running or not running: it makes the buzzing sound
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 14, 2009 at 7:44 PM
Hey everybody, it happened again. I wish I knew what was causing it. It must be IE8's invisibility function. Does anyone know how to defeat it?
Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 14, 2009 at 7:57 PM
are you saying this is a common problem?
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 14, 2009 at 8:29 PM
I plead the 5th. You will have to make that call. Following are the search results for pioneer noise there are 361 topics that meet that criteria. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/search.asp?KW=pioneer+noise&SM=1&SI=PT&FM=0&aid=199561&OB=1
Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 14, 2009 at 8:53 PM
i dont think it's the head unit because it still makes the noise even when the radio fuse is not installed in the fuse box
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 14, 2009 at 9:11 PM
Well let us know what it is when you figure it out.
Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 14, 2009 at 9:25 PM
im reposting this in a more appropriate forum The vehicle: 2001 Ford F-350 Super Duty Diesel 7.2ltr The System: Pioneer AVIC-f700BT Rockford fosgate amps, 2ch and a 4ch and a .5f cap The problem: this problem started when i was installing an starter kill switch using the wires at the ignition harness. i installed the sound system a couple days ago and it has worked fine until today. i was testing the kill switch so i was cycling the ignition. i turned the truck off then to run and had a significant amount of interference that hadnt been there just a few moments ago. here's what ive done so far to narrow down the problem: regrounded the head unit checked amp grounds. good ran rca directly to the amp, still buzzed. there is absolutely no interference in ACC, only in RUN i pulled the radio fuse and the buzzing still existed so i started pulling fuses until the buzzing sound went away and i found that the circuit causing the interference is 30amp fuse that controls the fuel heater, wastegate solenoid, and the injector driver module relay. This is all diesil only equipment. i pulled out the injector driver relay and that eliminated half of the interference but not all of it. i dont know what the wastegate is and the fuel heater im assuming isnt active because it's a warm day. also, when the 30 amp fuse is pulled the wait to start light doesn't come on. the sound doesn't seem to be following anything as far as i can see. when the truck is running turning on the AC or anything else that draws a lot of power changes the tone of the interference. so this is where i'm at now, i tried disconnecting the kill switch and checked all the wiring and its fine so i know its not the kill switch. i dont know what to do next... any help at all would be greatly appreciated, i think my client is scared i really messed something up so i want to get it fixed asap! Update: i've ruled out the rca's and the 4ch amp being the culprit. here's a couple videos of the sound im hearing. the truck is not running, the background noise you hear is the interference coming from the speakers, at the end of the second video i disconnect the radio and it goes silent but i dont think its the radio... what could be causing this?! Video 1 Video 2
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 14, 2009 at 9:37 PM
Wow You checked a lot of stuff there. I sure wish I had an idea that would have saved you all of that time.
Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 14, 2009 at 9:50 PM
i am an idiot wrote:
Wow You checked a lot of stuff there. I sure wish I had an idea that would have saved you all of that time.
so you still think it's the head unit? even though it worked just fine a day ago?
Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 14, 2009 at 9:56 PM
for some reason the word youtube isnt in those links, here, try these: video1video2
Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 14, 2009 at 9:59 PM
Those video links dont work... try these video 1 Video 2
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 14, 2009 at 10:21 PM
When you turn the volume from 0 to 1, or from 1 to 0, does it make a pop in the speakers?
Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 15, 2009 at 1:59 AM
no it dosent. i really appreciate the help by the way. one thing is.. the sound doesn't start until a few seconds after the ignition is turned to run. you can hear the long beep in the video and a few seconds later the buzzing starts. i'm wondering if the thing thats causing the interference doesn't turn on until the truck has been in run for a few seconds. i was thinking it might be the radio delay while it's loading but when i remove the radio fuse it still buzzes so i know its not just the radio itself causing the interference.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 15, 2009 at 5:52 AM
When you turn the key from off to Acc. how long does it take for the music to begin playing? Does the noise change pitch when you adjust the brightness of the dash lights? When you remove the radio fuse, the radio stays on? The forum blocks links to certain websites. EBay and YouTube are 2 of them. The waste gate is a pressure actuated valve that is on the output of the intake (intake as in not the exhaust) side of the turbo charger. That didn't really make sense but that is where it is. When the pressure coming out of the turbo charger becomes too great, the waste gate opens to vent the extra pressre into the atmosphere. Thus keeping the intercooler, intake and all pistons in tact.
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: June 15, 2009 at 8:23 AM
If you haven't already tried, use a different HU from a buddy and see if the problem presists. If it does, then it's a wiring issue. Have you tested your resistance to ground onthe HU and the amplifiers ? I know you stated that you ruled it out, but did you test it to rule it out ?
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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 15, 2009 at 8:44 AM
Hey and just for grins and giggles, while you already have the meter out, unplug all RCA cables from the back of the radio and check the resistance from the shield of the radio's RCA jacks to the chassis of the radio.
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: June 15, 2009 at 9:18 AM
have you checked if the noise exists on all sources of the radio?
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Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 15, 2009 at 6:24 PM
thanks guys i'll try these out
Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 16, 2009 at 6:06 PM
Okay:
-i tested the rca shields on the deck and amps with my meter and they are good.
-the interference is in all modes of the head unit(ipod fm am)
-when i turn on the parking lights and turn the dash lights dimmer all the way down i get a second buzzing sound that is much louder (video included)
-when i disconnect the amps the buzzing goes away (its not the amps)
Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 16, 2009 at 6:47 PM
i disconnected all the wires that connect the deck to the factory wiring (B+ ACC and dimmer)it still buzzed. i ungrounded the parking brake wire and the buzzing remained with only the ground wire connected. i cut the ground wire and connected it directly to the -battery terminal. still buzzed.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 16, 2009 at 7:41 PM
Take a short length of wire, ground one end and briefly touch the other end to the shield of one of the RCA cables. It will be best to try this behind the radio, not at an amp. Let me know if this makes a pop in the speakers. Also let me know if this affects the noise even a little bit.
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: June 16, 2009 at 10:23 PM
i am an idiot wrote:
I plead the 5th. You will have to make that call. Following are the search results for pioneer noise there are 361 topics that meet that criteria. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/search.asp?KW=pioneer+noise&SM=1&SI=PT&FM=0&aid=199561&OB=1
He shoots...........HE SCORES!!!!
Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 16, 2009 at 10:44 PM
i actually soldered wires to the shields and grounded them to the back of the HU and still got the interference, nothing changed, no pop. and the ohm meter read less than 1 ohm. i suppose i should try hooking a speaker directly to the HU?
i also ran wires from the unit to the pos and neg batt terminals and still got interference. :(
Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 17, 2009 at 12:13 AM
let me explain my ohm reading though... i think my digital meter needs to be re calibrated or something... im not sure if its possible to re calibrate digital ones. it's a FLUKE 77 from the mid 80's, i got it from my dad. when i turn the dial to ohms and connect the leads it says around 54.00 ohms then slowly counts down. when i tested the shields it gave me the same reading so i assumed 54 is zero.
Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 17, 2009 at 1:06 AM
$10 pay pal to the one who solves the problem :)
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 17, 2009 at 6:13 AM
I would be willing to look at it for you and not even charge you the 10 dollars, But the 141 gallons of fuel required would be a bit costly for you. I have no idea what is up with your meter. Fluke makes the most reliable equipmant out there. I remember you said you connected both radio power wires to the battery. Have you tried connecting them both to the capacitor? Do you have access to another meter? Or use that one, set it to AC volts, stick the leads into a wall outlet. (Of course make sure the leads are in good shape, no metal wire or probe exposed)Notice the reading. If it reads near 120 volts, It may just have a problem with the ohms section. With the truck running, black lead on chassis of the radio, check the AC voltage on both the red and yellow wires of the radio. Also at the amps. Black lead on ground terminal of amp. Red lead on power terminal of amp. Pay close attention to the display, it may read 100 or so, but it will turn on MV (for MilliVolts). Let me know what you find out. 3 voltages Radio's red and yellow and amp power.
Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 18, 2009 at 2:57 AM
okay, i will do that. i am amazed at how helpful you all seem to be! very impressed :) idiot, ill send you the 10 bucks anyways if you give me ur pay pal.
so Saturday is my last chance to get this problem figured out. i've done a great job on the rest of this guy's truck. lets see... its an 01' and he bought all this 05' Lariat interior, heated seats, overhead console, vanity mirrors, power sliding rear window, then i installed... clifford 50.7x alarm, 4 PIAA off road lights on the roof hooked to flash when the alarm goes off and controlled by a custom switch panel on the dash, 1000 watt power inverter and the sound system i mentioned earlier, kill switch.... what else... factory backup camera i haven't installed yet.. all for about $1,500. how much would you guys charge for that? and hes upset about the interference... he says Saturday is the last day before he has it towed (because he thinks it will go up in flames...) and fixed by someone else.
idiot, would it be too much to ask to actually call you and have you help me diagnose if you're not busy on saturday, what do you do anyways? i'll be more than happy to pay you for your time.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 18, 2009 at 6:14 AM
I sent you a private message. You said earlier that you removed the radio fuse and the noise remained. What are you using as a source to power the remote wire of the amps? If the inverter is set to turn on anytime the key is turned on, TURN IT OFF. Also the AC voltage readings from my last post would really be helpful.
Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 18, 2009 at 2:22 PM
the remote wire is the power wire for the rear sliding window... i guess i cut a corner there... the inverter is controlled by a switch on the dash and has its own power wire run directly to the battery. when i removed the radio fuse from the vehicle's fuse box (5A - isn't this a bit small?)and/or the back of the HU the buzzing remained.
i would get you those readings but i cant until saturday.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 18, 2009 at 6:10 PM
Temporarily connect the remote terminal to the power wire of the amp. Or to the positive connection of the capacitor. I know this will make your amps remain on. This is just temporary to see if the remote wire is picking up the noise. Start the vehicle and see if the noise is still there. Is there any reason that you did not use the Radio's amp turn on wire to turn the amps on?
Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 19, 2009 at 3:06 AM
just to have one less wire running down the sides. it seemed pretty convenient to just tap that wire which is controlled by a relay connected directly to the ACC wire.
Posted By: nfrank89
Date Posted: June 20, 2009 at 10:31 AM
So i just got a text from him, i guess we are rescheduling.
but while im waiting i have another quick question. he wants a blinking led on each of the 4 doors by the locks and he wants them to blink with the alarm's led. i've tapped into the pink wire(if i remember correctly) running from the brain to the vallet/antenna switch. what voltage leds and resistors do i need to get to make this possible? we would like the LED's to be around 2-3,000mcd. the supply voltage from the alarm's led is about 3.5vdc. i tried using those led calculator things but they say the supply voltage is too low although i know this is possible.
any suggestions?
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 24, 2009 at 7:19 PM
I have no idea what kind of drive circuit the alarm is using for the LEDs. Adding one to the mix would probably be OK. It is just like adding speakers to an amp, adding 4 extra speakers in parallel is probably not a good idea. If you can take the alarm brain apart and follow the trace from the LED pin to the next component in line and let me know what that next component is, a transistor or an integrated circuit. Either way let me know the number of the component. Depending on the component we may be able to connect the extra LEDs, or we may have to add a transistor to handle the extra current. But either way we should be able to do it.
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Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB
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