audiobahn a8000t protection problem
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=114518
Printed Date: June 11, 2024 at 9:28 PM
Topic: audiobahn a8000t protection problem
Posted By: red line auto
Subject: audiobahn a8000t protection problem
Date Posted: June 17, 2009 at 3:53 PM
I have a audibahn A8000T amp. I had it running for a while. I truned the truck off and turned it back on and it went straight in to protection. any ideas on why it did this and a way to rectifi the issue?
Replies:
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 17, 2009 at 3:55 PM
Chances are it has one or more shorted output transistors. Do you have a multimeter and a 2.5MM allen wrench? And a digital camera? Ampguts has no pictures of that amp. If you have the tools and the camera, I will need a picture of the circuit board. I will provide you an e-mail address when you have the pictures.
Posted By: red line auto
Date Posted: June 17, 2009 at 3:58 PM
yes i have both.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 17, 2009 at 4:06 PM
Since you do have a meter, use it to verify that you are getting power, ground and remote voltages to the amp. I may need a picture of the circuit board. Remove the top cover of the amp. Careful when lifting the cover off of the amp, there may be LEDs and meters mounted on the cover and need to be unplugged from the board. The output devices are the larger ones that are clamped to the heat sink. Do not remove any clamps untill we figure out which ones are shorted. Set the meter to the diode test function. Should be the only setting with a picture. Check between legs 2 and 3 of every output transistor. Notice the reading on each, and let me know if any read near 0.000 And let me know how many have that reading.
Posted By: red line auto
Date Posted: June 17, 2009 at 4:09 PM
Ok i will do that and post a pic of teh circut board later on tonight or tomorrow am. its going to take ame a lil bit to get it apart.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 17, 2009 at 4:29 PM
The only screws you need to remove are the ones on the left and right edges of the cover. Right where the cover meets the heat sink. All of the other screws can remain in the top cover.
Posted By: red line auto
Date Posted: June 18, 2009 at 1:30 PM
all of them range from 630 to 1160 but i am not sure which legs are two and three on this board. i have emailed you a pic of the board.
Posted By: red line auto
Date Posted: June 18, 2009 at 1:40 PM
i havw one other thing the fan inside the amp is missing a blade. Can that possibly cause any of my problems?
Posted By: red line auto
Date Posted: June 18, 2009 at 9:32 PM
ok i have check them all out. and using teh pic i sent you as refrence. the top transistor all run 622 and the bottom ones run 612 so id think they are all good. But i dont know. So any information would be greatly appreciated.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 18, 2009 at 9:37 PM
Did you check voltages on power ground and remote before you removed the amp?
Posted By: red line auto
Date Posted: June 19, 2009 at 7:16 AM
My power is 14.4 Volt. i checked it off the battery. now the gorund should have any voltage. but what should teh remote be for voltage? and how should i check it. Put my postive lead on the remote and the negative on the ground?
Posted By: red line auto
Date Posted: June 19, 2009 at 8:21 AM
my remote has 0.93 Volt. And my power is a heary 14.23 volt. So i hope you cen help me get this amp fixed.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 19, 2009 at 4:26 PM
.93 volts is not enough to turn the amp on. You should have no lights with that amount of voltage. Black meter lead to the ground terminal of the amp. Not to the chassis of the car, but on the terminal of the amp. Red lead to positive terminal of the amp. Then red lead to the remote terminal, you must have the radio powered up for the remote reading.
Posted By: red line auto
Date Posted: June 19, 2009 at 10:16 PM
Ok i will give it a try. What should my voltage be? ANd if it all pans out correctly what else could possibly be going on with it? The reason i ask is i have two rockford Punch 160 watt amps that are doing teh same thing the audiobahn is doing. So any kik thing i can do to diagnose these would be a huge help. but my main concern is my audiobahn.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 19, 2009 at 10:44 PM
It should read just above or near 12 volts without the engine running. Remember the radio has to be turned on. That is assuming you connected the amp's remote terminal to the radio's amp remote wire.
Posted By: red line auto
Date Posted: June 21, 2009 at 7:30 AM
well good news. my amp is working. it came down to the fuse i was usuing under my hood. It was a faulty fuse and would work heat up and the loose connection inside it self. I replaced the fuse and i get full voltage on both power and remote. Thank you for all your help. Now i just need to figure out why my to rockford punch 160.2 amps arent working and my Sony XM3040 isnt working.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 21, 2009 at 7:41 AM
That volt meter can be your friend. Was the AGU fuse gold in color? If you can get a Buss, Bussman, or a LittleFuse branded fuse, you should have a lot less trouble with one of those.
Posted By: red line auto
Date Posted: June 21, 2009 at 7:50 AM
the fuse i was using came with my rockford fosgate wiring kit. but i replaced it with a fuse from radio shack. and it seems to working just fine now. so im happy lol.
|