amp has bad mosfet

Mosfet? or whatever is bad in my amp. Don't have tons of money to get it fixed again.

It slowly drains power when my cars off yet the amp isn't on.

I lost my link... Ive asked somewhere before but...


Where can I find one of those things I can put on my 2nd battery to kill the power to my amp completely?

pac-audio.com has 2 solenoids that will do what you are asking. Since we have no idea how much current you need you will have to look for them, The pac-80 handles 80 amps of current. The pac-200 is good for 200 amps.

-------------
Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB

I have a 2300HCT Audiobahn amp. Yeah I know audibahn is crap and they supposedly closed down. But free amp and more than enough to get some decent bump out of my 2 Type Rs.

How much amps do you think I'd need?

"The Crystal Ball has been known to malfunction occasionally, so please remember to tell us what kind of vehicle, and equipment we are trying to help you with."

Lol, sorry. If it helps too... I have an Ford, 89 probe GT(boosted), and dual batteries. One in front, one in back.

Uhm... Stock alt for now, possible upgrade in the future if I keep the car.

The Crystal ball thing is my new signature line.  It was not directed at you.   I have no idea how much current your amp requires.  If it has fuses mounted on the end of it, how many and what is the current rating?  Does the amp still work fine?  Usually if one of the power supply transistors shorts in a manner that will keep the amp powered up, the amp's performance is drastically affected.  Have you tried removing the remote wire to see if it will shut off?

-------------
Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB

I'm sure that sig wasn't directed towards me. I know how hard it is to answer questions when people don't leave any details. I post answers frequently on PC forums.


It will completely shut down, no sound, lights, fans... nothing. Even happens when the remote is unplugged.

I was once suggested to cut the power to the remote with a switch... Tried it. Didn't work. Amp can/will drain a full battery over night.

Not always a complete drain, if I drive around a bunch. It will charge the battery up enough that it might last through 1 night... might. But that's only if my car is started instantly the next morning.



It has 4 fuses, they're all 40s. The red ones.

   

# 4800 Watt 2 Channel High Current Amp
# 2400 watts MAX x 2 @ 1 ohm stereo
# 1200 watts RMS x 2 @ 1 ohm stereo
# 600 watts RMS x 2 @ 2 ohms stereo
# 300 watts RMS x 2 @ 4 ohms stereo
# 4800 watts MAX x 1 @ 1 ohms mono
# 2400 watts RMS x 1 @ 1 ohms mono
# High Current Circuitry
# PWM MOSFET Power Supply
# Double Sided Glass Epoxy Circuit Board
# S/N Ratio: >100dB
# Frequency Response: 10Hz - 40KHz (+/- 1dB)
# Variable 24dB High-pass Crossover: 90Hz - 750Hz
# Variable 24dB Lo-pass Crossover: 30Hz - 120Hz
# Variable Subsonic Filter: 20Hz to 45Hz
# Variable Bass Boost: 0 - 18dB
# Variable Bass Boost Frequency: 40Hz - 100Hz
# RCA Throughput Connections 4-way Protection
# Circuitry: Thermal, Short Circuit, Overload, and DC Offset
# Dual Cooling Fans
# Nickel Plated Block Terminals



Here's some specs copied from a site I found on the internet... Not sure how true they are.

Hope it helps :/

You will need the 200 amp solenoid for that amp. With the amp completely cool one evening, connect it for an hour or so, then touch it all over to find out which part of the amp is getting hot.

-------------
Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB

i am an idiot wrote:

---

You will need the 200 amp solenoid for that amp. With the amp completely cool one evening, connect it for an hour or so, then touch it all over to find out which part of the amp is getting hot.

---

Okay super thanks!
And will do!