pioneer remote trigger problem
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=114641
Printed Date: May 14, 2025 at 8:29 AM
Topic: pioneer remote trigger problem
Posted By: belalegosi
Subject: pioneer remote trigger problem
Date Posted: June 23, 2009 at 2:28 PM
I'm having problems with my pioneer HU (deh p6800mp). The guy who installed it for me used the accessory to trigger the amp. Because of this I've been getting alot of engine noise when the HU is off.
I decided to redo it myself and I moved the wire from the accessory (red wire) to the remote wire (blue/white wire) and now the amp wont turn on. What could be wrong?
The amp I'm using is a JBL GTO 755.6
The car is a 98 dodge neon
Replies:
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 23, 2009 at 3:18 PM
The radio has a defective output chip. The output chip in that radio provides the remote output. The part to repair it will cost you around 40 dollars. The part number is PAL007b The phone number you need to call is 1-800-421-5080. Or you could install a switch in series with the wire to manually turn the amp off when you are not listening to it.
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Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB
Posted By: belalegosi
Date Posted: June 23, 2009 at 3:55 PM
Thanks you for helping.
Is the part easy to replace? Where in the deck is it?
Posted By: belalegosi
Date Posted: June 23, 2009 at 4:24 PM
nevermind, I found the service manual.
Hopefully I dont make it worse trying to change it:|
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 23, 2009 at 11:51 PM
I do have a couple circuit board saving tips for you. Let me know if you would like them. Lengthy instructions, and so many new ones come here for the info and then never make it back, just don't want to type it all if you are not going to be back to get it.
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Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: June 24, 2009 at 7:33 AM
i am an idiot wrote:
I do have a couple circuit board saving tips for you.
Now theres something you don't here everyday!
Posted By: belalegosi
Date Posted: June 24, 2009 at 10:59 AM
i am an idiot wrote:
I do have a couple circuit board saving tips for you. Let me know if you would like them. Lengthy instructions, and so many new ones come here for the info and then never make it back, just don't want to type it all if you are not going to be back to get it.
Any help would be great! I'll be back on the forums. I've been a member for a while but then I forgot my username and well you know the rest. I ordered the part last night on ebay. Got it for $15 shipped.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 24, 2009 at 11:14 AM
If you got one for 15 dollars, chances are it is a counterfeit part. The only problem with the counterfeit ones is the remote turn on wire does not work. Seriously, MCM Electronics wound up with a batch of the counterfeits. The remote outputs did not work. You can try it but do not be real upset if you are still in the same boat. The easiest way to make sure you do not damage the board is to cut the old output chip out of the board. Radio Shack sells a pair of diagonal cutting pliers that they call "Nippy Cutters" with these pliers you can get to the legs of the chip that are bent forward of the chip. Cut each of the legs then bend the output chip back so you can get to the legs of the chip that go straight into the board. Turn the board over so you can get to the solder joints on the bottomof the board. Heat up a couple joints and quickly raise the board a bit and drop it to make the legs fall out of the holes in the board. Repeat until you have all of the legs out of the board. Now with some desoldering braid, heat it up and remove all of the solder from the pads on the board. The big problem when people try to remove these parts, they try to pull the chip out of the board by heating and pulling on the chip. This will definitely remove traces from the board. ------------- Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB
Posted By: belalegosi
Date Posted: June 24, 2009 at 11:24 AM
Thanks for the advice. Is there a way to identify the counterfeit parts?
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 24, 2009 at 12:18 PM
The ones I had from MCM were years ago, they were PAL007A but they looked legitimate. The only way I know to test them is to install them and see it the remote wire has power. The PAL007b is on the list of counterfeit parts, howvever they offer no way to identify them.
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Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB
Posted By: belalegosi
Date Posted: June 24, 2009 at 12:22 PM
Thanks. I'll just wait for the part and see if it works. If it dont, I'll take a picture of it for others to reference it as counterfeit
Posted By: belalegosi
Date Posted: July 11, 2009 at 1:40 PM
Well I installed the part I bought over ebay.
Its a counterfeit :(
The remote trigger still does not work so now I'm in the same boat again.
I find it hard to put out $40 for a chip on a deck I got for $60 new.
Is there anyway to suppress the noise coming from the accessory line?
I was thinking the use of some sort of inductor inline with the remote trigger wire. Would that work?
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: July 11, 2009 at 10:21 PM
You need to install a switch on the wire so you can turn it off manually if the radio is off.
Posted By: yimke
Date Posted: July 13, 2009 at 1:10 PM
Did you disconnect your blue/white wire away from the remote wire lead and test your voltage output from the back of the deck?
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