mdf core red oak enclosure?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=114724
Printed Date: April 29, 2024 at 4:52 AM
Topic: mdf core red oak enclosure?
Posted By: thatfloorguy
Subject: mdf core red oak enclosure?
Date Posted: June 27, 2009 at 7:41 AM
I built a 4.75 net slot port enclosure a few weeks back and discovered an air leak, so I have to rebuild it. I saw a 3/4" sheet of red oak w/ mdf core at Menards. It it twice the cost. Does anyone have any experience with this material? I was also considering using fiberglass resin on the interior this time. Will this help the performance of the enclosure or is it overkill? 08s15L74(wired to 2) 08zx750.1 08zx350.4 pioneer deh4900 big3 upgrade
Replies:
Posted By: glass22
Date Posted: June 27, 2009 at 8:08 AM
where is the leak in the box you built? why can't you just seal that one?
Posted By: thatfloorguy
Date Posted: June 27, 2009 at 8:24 AM
The box will have to be removed from the trunk which entales removing the back and driver's seats completely to check for other leaks. The one I have located is on the top LH corner. I will just reconstruct a new one if I go through the trouble of removing it. I used gorilla glue and I think it has expanded too much anyway, so I fear mutiple leaks may have occured.
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: June 27, 2009 at 8:34 AM
Can you get to the drivers (the speakers)? Remove them and go in through those holes. Seal all seams from the inside with silicone sealant. I have not used the "red oak with MDF core" but assuming it is simply laminated MDF sure, you could use it if you choose. ------------- Support the12volt.com
Posted By: thatfloorguy
Date Posted: June 27, 2009 at 8:49 AM
I have to remove the enclosure or at least get it into the car (remove rear seat trim/panels etc.) to remove the bottom screws from the sub. The one leak I am sure of is a result of the mdf panel falling @ the end of the cut. The sawhorse slid out from under it and the clamps let loose resulting in the corner to be angled off a little. I tried silicone (all seams) but I fear the gap is too much and the gorilla glue expanding has opened it up even more. Yes it is basicly mdf laminated with what looks to be 1/8" red oak on either side. I dunno if it is worth the price compared to just 3/4" mdf. If it is stiffer and will provide more stability, or just use mdf and resin the interior after the silicone sets overnight. It isn't like you can see light through the gap or anything but I know it is there and I believe it does affect the sound/performance of the sub.
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: June 27, 2009 at 9:12 AM
IMO your red oak material is for building furniture or doors. It is done for looks and will not perform any better than standard MDF for a speaker enclosure. A word of advice: buying another piece of material and doing it correctly if you mess up a cut is always cheaper in the long run than trying to make it work by jury-rigging something and having to re-do it later. ------------- Support the12volt.com
Posted By: thatfloorguy
Date Posted: June 27, 2009 at 9:25 AM
Ok Thank you I wanted to be sure b4 I spent twice as much for the same results. And yeah I should have just got more mdf b4 continuing GRRRRRR It is a lot more work tearing down the back half of the car again. I still would have needed another sheet as they don't sell half or partial sheets here but...... So for the resin on the interior. Is that a good idea or no. I already have plenty of resin/hardner left over from making custom door panels to match the contour of my body kit. Should I use regular wood glue as opposed to the gorilla glue this time also? BTW the big 3 dramatically helped last year Thanks
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: June 27, 2009 at 9:50 AM
I suggest using standard wood glue (I use Elmer's Probond) and letting it completely set (24 hours) while clamped before you handle it for another step. If you want to seal the inside with resin that is a fine approach if you are familiar with using it. ------------- Support the12volt.com
Posted By: thatfloorguy
Date Posted: June 27, 2009 at 10:10 AM
I had been making a thick liquid of sorts from resin,hardner,bondo hair,bondo glass, and a little cream hardener. The door panels came out really strong after a few layers of that. I am thinking just one coat mostly resin for the enclosure as not to cause much displacement.
Posted By: glass22
Date Posted: June 27, 2009 at 10:26 AM
DYohn] wrote:
suggest using standard wood glue (I use Elmer's Probond) and letting it completely set (24 hours) while clamped before you handle it for another step. If you want to seal the inside with resin that is a fine approach if you are familiar with using it.
i second the wood glue, I hate gorilla glue. I use tite bond II. Never had a problem.
Posted By: thatfloorguy
Date Posted: June 27, 2009 at 10:35 AM
I am thinking of going a little bigger also. Kicker's 6 CF is actually 6.525 w/port. I can get that with 34Wx17Hx24D They have the port tuned@30hz tho. For spl do I want to tune it higher? What would you reccomend as far as the port? It cannot not exceed 15.5 high, that is the max.I came up with 5.975 including sub/brace displacement, another .86 for the port (3 5/8x15 1/2x22) for a total of 6.525 CF but again that is tuned@ 30hz. (08s15L74 wired to 2 08zx750.1) Will this design produce the sound I am looking for or does the port need reconfigured?
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