wiring dvc sub
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=114788
Printed Date: May 09, 2024 at 8:39 AM
Topic: wiring dvc sub
Posted By: dp85iroc
Subject: wiring dvc sub
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 9:53 AM
ya i have a 4 ohm dvc sub and i was wondering if it's possible to wire it by connect each vc to a seperate channel on my 2 channel amplifier? thanks
Replies:
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 10:13 AM
Sure. Just make sure both channels are in phase. ------------- Support the12volt.com
Posted By: i_want_the_boom
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 11:01 AM
how would you know if they are in phase or not?
-------------
If the trunk dont rattle then its not loud.
If it's to loud then you're to old.
Posted By: i_want_the_boom
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 11:06 AM
sorry for the dp but in this situation what ohm load would that put on the amp? If you had a 4ohm amp rated 400x2 would you get 200watts to each voice coil?
-------------
If the trunk dont rattle then its not loud.
If it's to loud then you're to old.
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 11:31 AM
if an amp is 400x2, lets say at 2 ohm stereo(2 ohms per channel)and your sub was 2 ohm DVC( 2 ohms per coil) and you hooked 1 coil to each channel of the amp then you would theoretically get 400 watts per coil
-------------
Posted By: i_want_the_boom
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 11:55 AM
what would be the diference if you wired the sub in parallel to one channel or brigged if amp allows that
-------------
If the trunk dont rattle then its not loud.
If it's to loud then you're to old.
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 1:03 PM
if an amp allows 2 ohm stereo it should only allow 4 ohm mono(bridged). so you could not wire the 2 ohm dvc sub in parallel and then bridge it because that would be 1 ohm mono. and you could only wire it to a single channel if the amp supports 1 ohm per channel, which most 2 channel amps wont support. you COULD wire the sub in series to give you a 4 ohm load and bridge it, but power wise it would be the same as 2 ohm stereo.
-------------
Posted By: dp85iroc
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 1:22 PM
thanks for all the answers and i want the boom good question also....i always thought if it were rated for 400x2 then you get 400 for each channel so that was good to kno. but basically it is okay to wire it up with one channel per voice coil. so good to kno
Posted By: i_want_the_boom
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 1:22 PM
I understand what you are saying. If it was you who were hooking the sub up would you wire the sub in series and bridge it to the amp for a 4ohm load, or would you run each voice coil to each channel in stereo at 2ohms? From what you are saying they will both produce the same power but wouldnt the the difference in the ohm load have an effect on the amp? would the amp be more efficient at 2 or 4 ohms?
-------------
If the trunk dont rattle then its not loud.
If it's to loud then you're to old.
Posted By: dp85iroc
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 1:23 PM
and another thing about the in phase part? what does that mean exactly...
Posted By: dp85iroc
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 1:26 PM
it should be more effiecent at a lower ohm but thats only if its stable...mine is lol
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 1:33 PM
i_want_the_boom wrote:
I understand what you are saying. If it was you who were hooking the sub up would you wire the sub in series and bridge it to the amp for a 4ohm load, or would you run each voice coil to each channel in stereo at 2ohms? From what you are saying they will both produce the same power but wouldnt the the difference in the ohm load have an effect on the amp? would the amp be more efficient at 2 or 4 ohms?
it is the same to the amp, but I would just bridge it at 4 ohms since it is just one speaker.
phase is basically just a fancy word for polarity, but it can get more complicated when you are talking about sound waves.
when you have 2 speakers wired together and you hook the speaker wire to the positive and negative of a battery both speakers should move in the same direction(in or out) and this is referred to as being in phase. if they each move the opposite way of each other then they are out of phase with each other.
-------------
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 1:35 PM
dp85iroc wrote:
it should be more effiecent at a lower ohm but thats only if its stable...mine is lol
that depends on the amp's design. -------------
Posted By: dp85iroc
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 1:46 PM
so as long as i connect the postive and negatives right then it should be in phase correct?
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 1:49 PM
dp85iroc wrote:
so as long as i connect the postive and negatives right then it should be in phase correct?
thats right, but some amp's terminals are +--+ instead of +-+- so make sure you pay attention to how they are on your amp. -------------
Posted By: dp85iroc
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 1:56 PM
ok i will thank you dude
Posted By: i_want_the_boom
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 1:58 PM
soundnsecurity wrote:
[QUOTE=i_want_the_boom] QUOTE]when you have 2 speakers wired together and you hook the speaker wire to the positive and negative of a battery both speakers should move in the same direction(in or out) and this is referred to as being in phase. if they each move the opposite way of each other then they are out of phase with each other.
If you have positive connected to positive and negative connected to negative witch way should the speaker move in or out ------------- If the trunk dont rattle then its not loud.
If it's to loud then you're to old.
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 1:59 PM
i_want_the_boom wrote:
soundnsecurity wrote:
[QUOTE=i_want_the_boom] QUOTE]when you have 2 speakers wired together and you hook the speaker wire to the positive and negative of a battery both speakers should move in the same direction(in or out) and this is referred to as being in phase. if they each move the opposite way of each other then they are out of phase with each other.
If you have positive connected to positive and negative connected to negative witch way should the speaker move in or out
it would move out. -------------
Posted By: i_want_the_boom
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 2:08 PM
Thanks alot soundnsecurity. I think im adicted to this forum
-------------
If the trunk dont rattle then its not loud.
If it's to loud then you're to old.
Posted By: dp85iroc
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 5:00 PM
ya gonna have to agree with you on that one i've been reading this stuff for the past week straight
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 6:37 PM
dp85iroc wrote:
it should be more effiecent at a lower ohm but thats only if its stable...mine is lol
Wrong answer. Loading an amplifier to lower impedances REDUCES the efficiency of an amplifier - meaning there is a greater percentage of wasted heat. It also lowers damping factor, increases distortion, and reduces the lifespan of the amplifier. ------------- It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: dp85iroc
Date Posted: July 01, 2009 at 7:58 PM
what i ment tho was it will put out more wattage....
Posted By: i_want_the_boom
Date Posted: July 02, 2009 at 9:04 AM
haemphyst wrote:
dp85iroc wrote:
it should be more effiecent at a lower ohm but thats only if its stable...mine is lol
Wrong answer. Loading an amplifier to lower impedances REDUCES the efficiency of an amplifier - meaning there is a greater percentage of wasted heat. It also lowers damping factor, increases distortion, and reduces the lifespan of the amplifier.
How would this apply to an amp say 2000x1@1ohm, 1600x1@2ohm, 1000x1@4ohm? Even though this amp is stable at 1ohm it would be more efficient at 4ohm? One more ? If the amp says will do 1000watts @1-4ohms would it be better to run it at 1 or 4? even though it produces the same output would that still apply here. ------------- If the trunk dont rattle then its not loud.
If it's to loud then you're to old.
Posted By: i_want_the_boom
Date Posted: July 02, 2009 at 9:09 AM
skip the first question already answered
-------------
If the trunk dont rattle then its not loud.
If it's to loud then you're to old.
Posted By: soundnsecurity
Date Posted: July 02, 2009 at 7:31 PM
hmm, i really dont know the right answer to that question but if i had the option, i would run it at as high of an ohm load as possible to get the same power. or maybe right in the middle.
-------------
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: July 02, 2009 at 10:19 PM
If it's the same power, I'd opt for a higher impedance, this better efficiency, less wasted heat, lower distortion...
-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: July 03, 2009 at 5:43 AM
If the amp is stating a certain power output into a range of loads, like 1 -4 ohms, and voltage remains a constant with all variables, then the amplifier itself is making an adjustment to the impedance it sees. In order to maintain 1,000 watts output into any variable of load from 1 to 4 ohms, the amp is adjusting the load to the highest impedance...which is specified as 4 ohms. So it doesn't matter if your woofers are wired to 1 or 1.67 or 3 ohms, the amplifier is working with a 4 ohm load. Thus, there can be no difference in the quality of output when using such an amp. Ohm's Law doesn't allow anything other. ------------- Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: July 03, 2009 at 8:54 PM
stevdart wrote:
If the amp is stating a certain power output into a range of loads, like 1 -4 ohms, and voltage remains a constant with all variables, then the amplifier itself is making an adjustment to the impedance it sees. In order to maintain 1,000 watts output into any variable of load from 1 to 4 ohms, the amp is adjusting the load to the highest impedance...which is specified as 4 ohms.
So it doesn't matter if your woofers are wired to 1 or 1.67 or 3 ohms, the amplifier is working with a 4 ohm load. Thus, there can be no difference in the quality of output when using such an amp.
Ohm's Law doesn't allow anything other.
Huh?
If an amplifier makes the same power into a range of impedances, it does so by adjusting the output voltage... It DOESN'T remain constant... It CAN'T remain constant. This, coincidentally, adjusts the output current. The back EMF produced by the drivers still sees the very same output impedance presented by the output devices inside the amplifier, and while the back EMF at a lower impedance DOESN'T adjust to remain the same as it does at a higher impedance, the damping improves STILL, with a higher impedance. That's point one.
The reduction in current in direct relation to the reduction in voltage across the devices, equates to a lower loss factor, i.e. better efficiency. Can't argue with that, either... Point two.
The reduction of voltage, and the corresponding reduction in current allows the devices within the amplifier to run in a more linear mode, improving transfer function, reducing the output distortion of the amplifier. Point three.
Just because an amplifier is rated for the same power into a range of impedances, it DOESN'T mean it sees one load, no matter what load is attached to the output terminals. All it means is that the power supply is "smart", and makes the same amount of power no matter the load. ------------- It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
|