box too small?

hello. i have a 12" alpine type-r; mrp-m500 powering it. i have the sub in a ported prefab box. its really loud inside the car but the bass is not loud enough for me outside the car; the bass doesnt travel so far. i want to be heard at least a block away. im running a 4 gauge power wire from the car battery to my cap and (2) 8 gauge power wires that split from the cap to my mrp-m500 and a rf punch 240x4. the mrp-m500 and the cap is a 4 gauge ground. and the punch 240x4 is an 8 gauge ground. and im running 14 gauge speaker wire for the sub inside and out. here is the link for the box. im having trouble posting the link on here, if you can do me a big favor and go on ebay and copy and paste this in the search bar: 360173767209. sorry for the inconvenience. thank you very much.

Sorry never hear a 12" alpine type-r a block away in any box. The box is good but still not going to hear it that far with 1-12" alpine type-r

-------------
Can't be loud then don't have it.

(power acoustik system)
Head unit- TID-896 7" TOUCHSCREEN
ovn1-5500d 09 and another one coming soon
4-12" mofos 12ft3 box to 40hz (wall)
2 batterys, 1 power

ported boxes dont carry well over long distances unless it is a big setup. i have my 18 in a ported box and it does 150db on the dash but if you step out of my truck you will barely hear it a few feet away. my suggestion is maybe try out a sealed box.

-------------

what are good subwoofers strictly for loud bass?

i guess i didn't tell you what you wanted to hear.   your type R can get plenty loud with the right box.

-------------

the right box? you mean a custom box right? how can i get the cut outs? i would have to measure my trunk right?

imupabove wrote:

---

the right box? you mean a custom box right? how can i get the cut outs? i would have to measure my trunk right?

---

The right size box for the sub if you was to buy it, but if you was to build it your self then you would need to measure the trunk or where you are going to put it. (while even if you buy it you still got to measure the truck to make sure it fits.

I am a little confused on "how can I get the cut outs?" please explain a little more (cut outs of what)ex: holes, a cut sheet for the box. Need more info.

-------------
Can't be loud then don't have it.

(power acoustik system)
Head unit- TID-896 7" TOUCHSCREEN
ovn1-5500d 09 and another one coming soon
4-12" mofos 12ft3 box to 40hz (wall)
2 batterys, 1 power

Bass travel...JL Audio...hands down. Broadcast some highs too! Just no rattle!   The M500 is not a easy amp to work with, the separate controller is cool though. Consider the amp can exceed 900w when choosing your woofer.

-------------
This is what I do for FUN!

900w ... meaning 900 rms right?

No, rms is 500, the amp draws around 35 amps on a semi-consistent basis. When I had the MRD-M500(not MRP) with the RUX control module, I saw the current rise to over 65-70 amps frequently, and even higher on occasion. With a Zapco preamp, I pushed 2 DA 12's. Taking advantage of the 8v RCA input.

-------------
This is what I do for FUN!

so what exactly your trying to me? i need a new amp? new sub? did you see the box that its in? im not getting the lows with box, and im not sure if its the box that im having the problem with.

Tough to say, I've seen/heard a JL 12 travel the furthest for a single sub. The box was solid oak 1" thick. Probably the exact spec size recommended, if smaller. It came from a Mustang hatchback with a old school 250X2 amp, that was top notch of the time. Decent equipment and a really good sealed box are essential. However, my Integra has 2 12" Pioneer IMPP, a old ass JBLGTQ400 200X2 amp, MTX 3-way X-over 2.0-ft3 separated. I get a block travel from that. Subs face toward the rear and the box wedges into rear seats. BTW its a hatchback. Bottom line, multiple subs, unique box and high output.

-------------
This is what I do for FUN!

I had a 92 dodge daytona hatchback with one 15" re audio xxx and hit 151 db with a legacy 1400 amp. It was a crap amp but hit really hard. That amp even though it was a pile of crack still works. You can hear me 2 city blocks away easy. I miss that car wish I has that car with the system I have now (insane). The lows are not hit might be both the sub or the box, Try a better box first from 35hz to 40hz is a good range for lows or even lower maybe then if all fails then get a better sub. But I would start with the box first then the others But that's just me

-------------
Can't be loud then don't have it.

(power acoustik system)
Head unit- TID-896 7" TOUCHSCREEN
ovn1-5500d 09 and another one coming soon
4-12" mofos 12ft3 box to 40hz (wall)
2 batterys, 1 power

ianarian wrote:

---

Bottom line, multiple subs, unique box and high output.

---

so 2 subs with the right box would be good right? what do you mean by high output? thanks.

I've never heard sound at 12-16 hz before. Are those not sub-sonic? Imupabove- as of right now, vibecustoms suggestion of a box is probably the most logical. Since you have a amp and speaker already. I wouldnt recommend another sub on that amp. My integra had 2ft3 per sub. Everyone will say thats too much. Well, when people constantly just walk up out of no where and say, Dude...that system sounds friggin good! Then too big my @$$. Some people know it when they hear it. You know they know by the way they say it. The comments began after the MTX electronic X-O, (hint only). You need the proper structure in the enclosure to ensure that the speaker does not waste any energy. If you pressed a speaker in, it took like 10 seconds for it to return to position. Thats how sealed it was. My box was cut with a table saw. It was assembled, glued and clamped. No staples or screws. No joint sealant on the inside. It never faltered. The high output I referred to is a products capability that I have judged over the years that does not involve ratings of watts, volts, amps and so on. The only consistency I've banked on is Speaker impedance taken with a meter. Some brands just play louder and better for reasons that I havnt ever figured out. (Opiniarian) Alpine amps just do not do what Arc Audio can. I just finished full systems in 2 different wake boats. 1 is Arc Audio, the other is %@^#$!&>. The Arc boat, well lets just say they have "the system". Arc wont sell to me wholesale by agreement with dealers. So they sent me a ton of Stickers, shirts, posters and keychains and so on. $$10,000 it cost them to be the loudest boat on Lake Berryessa. Oops sorry, rambling on, I hope the idea is setting in about how you can achieve your goal. I cant tell you to go buy this, or that. I can say that 1 12" sub in a prefab box with 1 M-500 isnt enough. A line driver and box will do wonders. Above all, protect your ears, its the best advice you can receive on this forum, EVER.

-------------
This is what I do for FUN!

line driver? what is that? how would that help?

man i know its the box. its too small. or the port is too small. i know its the box bro. i just need someone with experience or know what they're doing to build be a ported box. i know for sure i aint messin wit my local audio shops (rippers).

Build it your self with the right tools and a cut sheet you should be good. Check specs of the sub(s) and measure the room of the car you are putting in and make a box to fit the space. If you need to design something for you. Just takes time and some tools.

-------------
Can't be loud then don't have it.

(power acoustik system)
Head unit- TID-896 7" TOUCHSCREEN
ovn1-5500d 09 and another one coming soon
4-12" mofos 12ft3 box to 40hz (wall)
2 batterys, 1 power

okay.. . when i measure my trunk where do i go from there?

Line drivers plain and simple, boost the signal level from the source to the amp. Google it for info. However, most are technical devices and seem to be unpopular.   Post pix of your box as your building it, Im going to start a box right now too. Also, can you remind me what vehicle, deck, cable/fuse sizes and other amps you are using right now?

-------------
This is what I do for FUN!

where do i connect the line driver? between my deck and amp? i do not know how to build a box. i dont even have the right tools. here is what i have.

idax200
mrp-m500
12" alpine type r
rf punch 240x4
6022i's
sps-69c3's
rfc1d
4 gauge wire; from battery to cap
4 gauge ground; cap to chassis
(2) 8 gauage wire; splits to mrp-m500 & rf punch 240x4
mrp-m500; 4 gauge ground
rf punch 240x4; 8 gauge ground

tjjr8120 wrote:

---

With one sub you can reach a distance but you might need more battery's and cap's to hold up to the current draw i custom built a 3000 watt 15" 1 ohm dvc and it blew away a 15" rockford fosgate punch power dvc and a 15" kicker solo baric off the same amplifier in a 2.5 cu.ft. box the difference the rockford bass level was amazing but you couldn't hear it from 30 yards away , the solo sounded real deep in the 2.5 and in the 1.5 like it's ment to be by kicker the bass level was around 145db but started to distort around 20hz and they can handle 750 rms @ 18hz and my custom built subwoofer hit's 1500 rms @ 2ohms at 12 hz the sound pressure was around 167 @ 700 watts rms and the alpine headunit volume was at 22 and the mtx crossover was at 1/2 way and the gain on the amplifier was all the way down and the bass was set on the 16hz and we listen to it for 3-4 minuate's enough to listen to one song and we went inside so the customer can write me a check to find out that all his picture's and all his things all over the house including his 3 rooms and the bathroom has rattled onto the floor and i sat their for 15 minuates cleaning up the mess my subwoofer left and we was 25 yards from his house when we was listening to the system.

---

Wow you were doing 167db @ 12hertz with only 700 watts , thats really impresive ROTFLMFAO.  That has got to be the biggest bunch of BS I have ever read... EVER haha

imupabove wrote:

---

where do i connect the line driver? between my deck and amp? i do not know how to build a box. i dont even have the right tools.

---

Based on this statement and all your other posts, I sincerely recommend you put all your equipment into the back seat or trunk and drive to a good installer's shop in your area, and pay for some assistance.  Seriously.

-------------
Support the12volt.com

no no no no. i hate audio shops. i rather blow up my car in front of my house. THANKS! BYE!

imupabove wrote:

---

no no no no. i hate audio shops. i rather blow up my car in front of my house. THANKS! BYE!

---

That is an unfortunate attitude to bring to an installer's forum.  Where do you live, perhaps I can make a recommendation of a good shop.

-------------
Support the12volt.com

Imup, may I ask how old you are? Just wondering!   DYohn's advice isnt something debatable. It may help you more than any question you think asking will. Now I admire your ambition, I was the same way except I was dealing with Pyramid, Profile and Sherwood which isnt as important to get the stars aligned as your equipment. WE can help you but, things like how your connections terminate and how your wires are ran, those factors (and too many others) will make or brake the system. The amount you have invested is serious. Loving sound is great. However a complete installer is a electrician, fabricator, craftsmen, carpenter, mechanic, interior designer, acoustic engineer, architect, plumber, pizza driver, and ONE HELL of a patient SOB. You are on your way brutha, but even I got shops that I patronize and utilize when needed. I wouldnt have a system right now if it wasnt for shops.

-------------
This is what I do for FUN!

i never spent a penny at audio shops (except wires and terminals). its all love though, we gotta make a living right?

anyways.. theirs this guy that can build me a custom ported box, and he said he can make my 12 sound like a 15. he said first he has to measure my trunk, hes charging me 100-160 (not bad right?). i live in San Diego, California. my wiring is done correctly.

- from car batt. to cap is a 4 gauge
- cap to amps (2) 8 gauge power wire splits to my mrp-m500 and punch amp
- 4 gauge ground for my mrp
- 4 gauge ground for the cap
- 8 gauge ground for punch amp
(all grounds are on separate)

is this setup okay^^^^?

thanks guys.

Oh ya, WHEN(emphasis) you realize that the 1-M500 and 1 type R 12 isnt satisfying your needs, your going to be upgrading. Battery, big 3 and 4 guage on the MRP 12V+. You have a lot of work left to do...keep busy!

-------------
This is what I do for FUN!

it ways happens that way, all ways want more

-------------
Can't be loud then don't have it.

(power acoustik system)
Head unit- TID-896 7" TOUCHSCREEN
ovn1-5500d 09 and another one coming soon
4-12" mofos 12ft3 box to 40hz (wall)
2 batterys, 1 power

ianarian wrote:

---

Oh ya, WHEN(emphasis) you realize that the 1-M500 and 1 type R 12 isnt satisfying your needs, your going to be upgrading. Battery, big 3 and 4 guage on the MRP 12V+. You have a lot of work left to do...keep busy!

---

what kind of battery? brands?

the mrp recommends 8 gauge, but when i didnt have a 4 channel amp, i used fork terminals and used a 4 gauge, i think it sounds the same not sure though. oh yeah what do i need to buy for the big 3; 0 gauge wiring right? how long?

imupabove wrote:

---

i live in San Diego, California..

---

Try one of these guys: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/findinstaller.asp?search=yes&City=San+Diego&sh=1&state=California&country=&Submit=Search

-------------
Support the12volt.com

DYohn] wrote:

---

p>

imupabove wrote:

---

where do i connect the line driver? between my deck and amp? i do not know how to build a box. i dont even have the right tools.

---

Based on this statement and all your other posts, I sincerely recommend you put all your equipment into the back seat or trunk and drive to a good installer's shop in your area, and pay for some assistance.  Seriously.

---

Seriously, take DYohn's advice and step away from the vehicle - NOW! You may burn up your vehicle and yourself in the process. Although it sounds like you have a decent understanding of the basics (and that's being generous), you will do yourself a favor by going to a shop, and still learn more in the process without paying an extremely high price (not satisfied with current system and buying more, unecessary equipment; or hurting yourself or others physically).

-------------
VEHICLE: 2002 GMC Sonoma ZR2
Alpine CDA-7940
AudioControl EQT x2
JL Audio 1000/1
JL Audio 10W6 (originals) x3
Kicker ZR120
Kicker ZR460
Polk GXR-6 x4
Polk GXR-4 x2

Once you understand how your going to do it, those answers will present themselves. The joy of self installation. YOU tell me how long they are and how they route, support and connect. For now, Optima battery from cosco is the way I go. I use yellow, red is the recommended. Dont ask why. You need new battery terminal connectors too.   Look at what wires are currently feeding off your terminals. Make sure your new terminal connectors will allow for those to be reconnected. If you had pictures of everything you've done, it sure would help. 4ga on mrp necessary? All I know is 8 years ago I thought I knew it all. I been in school for A/V and electrical for 7 years now and if nothing else, there is one thing I have learned for certain.....*8 years ago I didnt know a dam thing..hah. Do it because at this point, with a 4ga ground, there's no reason for the circuit to have that weak leg in it.   And you'll be out buying another sub and box here in the next short while, then you'll be getting a new sub amp after that, then....

-------------
This is what I do for FUN!