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no sound from subs

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=115534
Printed Date: May 03, 2024 at 3:11 AM


Topic: no sound from subs

Posted By: curtislex
Subject: no sound from subs
Date Posted: August 08, 2009 at 10:45 PM

i am running a quantum audio 3000watt class d amp to two rockford t1 15s with a pioneer avic-z1 deck. my system worked fine in my tahoe then i traded my tahoe in for a 2000 monte and now i cnat get any sound from my subs. the amp powers on and doesnt go into protect. i used a multimeter to check my power voltage and got a little over 12 volts from the power and my remote was getting 11.5 volts. i guess it was getting 11.5 because i checked with the car turned on but not started. i tried to check my rcas with the multimeter but it wasnt making sense to me. i touched the positive to the prong and the neg to the outer shell and soon as i touched it the volts jumped to .20 but then slowly went down to .03. is this correct or not. also what is the correct procedure for testing the rcas because i have read on many forums many ways of doing it. i know the prong is pos and the shell is neg but when i check them should i check one side of the rca at a time or do i use one side for the pos and the other for the neg?
also everything is the exact same thing that i removed from my tahoe. the amp is only about 2 weeks old i bought it a couple of days before i traded my tahoe in. the only difference is the radio wirng harness. i had to use the gmos-01 metra harness so i could retain my door chimes and all that.



Replies:

Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: August 09, 2009 at 8:23 AM
You could just be in too much of a hurry.  Take your time, check all connections and controls.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: August 09, 2009 at 8:38 AM
Does that radio have an option to turn sub off/on...? Might be as simple as turning the sub feature ON...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: yimke
Date Posted: August 09, 2009 at 9:21 AM
Positive to prong and negative to the outer shell. It should increase AC volts as the volume is increased. If no voltage check connections behind deck. If those are good move to step 2.

Also check the sub on/off feature. If it is on check continuity between the prong/shield of the RCA to see if they are pinched together. And then check for continuity to ground on each part of the RCA (prong, then outer) It could be a screw through the rca causing the signal to ground out.

And finally check the AC voltage coming off the amp.

It's probably one of the first 2 things though.




Posted By: curtislex
Date Posted: August 11, 2009 at 4:40 PM
the sun on/off feature is turned on. i tried the rcas in the rear output and the front output and the sub output still nothing. i had this same problem when i tried to install a system in a 2005 impala. i dont kno or see y it would affect the amp and subs but in that car we also had to use the gmos-01 harness from metra. when i tested my remote wire with the multimeter it was only getting 11.5 volts but as far as i kno that shouldnt be a problem.




Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: August 11, 2009 at 4:51 PM
Is there a Master/Slave switch on the amp?  If so make sure it is in the Master position.

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Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB




Posted By: curtislex
Date Posted: August 13, 2009 at 9:17 PM
i brought my old 12s out of the bassment and hooked them up and they worked so i dont understand y my 15s arent. i dont think they are blown and if they are shouldnt they make some sort of sound regardless. i can push on them and they move in and out freely so i know the voicecoils arent fried. i dont see y they wouldnt work they worked fine when i took them out of my tahoe, unfortunately the warranty of my t1's ran out 2 months ago and that sucks seeing as how i paid $450 a piece for them. any ideas on what the problem could beor are the subs just completely gone.




Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: August 13, 2009 at 9:36 PM
Are they dual voice coil?  Did you take them out of the box and make sure the connections are good on the back of the terminal cups.

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Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB




Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: August 14, 2009 at 9:03 AM
take a battery and put the wires coming from 15's to the + and - of battery...Did the speakers move...? try again with the battery, but this time touch it to the tinsel leads...!(wires from terminal of sub that run into speaker.)

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: yimke
Date Posted: August 14, 2009 at 11:33 PM
What ohm wiring setup are you running this at out of curiosity.

And measure the ohm resistance of each coil since you have a multi-meter. If they don't measure 4 ohms, that will be your issue.




Posted By: curtislex
Date Posted: August 17, 2009 at 10:05 PM
im running 0 gauge wire so that not a problem. the power wire looks like a water hose lol. im pretty experienced with car audio thats y i dont understand y there is no sound at all coming from them. i tested them on a drill battery and they moved just like they should. i even tried them in a buddys car and no sound in his car either. it doesnt make any sense to me at all. like i said they sounded great in my tahoe but i cant get them to work now for nothing.




Posted By: ace_boy2099
Date Posted: February 14, 2010 at 8:18 AM

curtislex wrote:

i am running a quantum audio 3000watt class d amp to two rockford t1 15s with a pioneer avic-z1 deck. my system worked fine in my tahoe then i traded my tahoe in for a 2000 monte and now i cnat get any sound from my subs. the amp powers on and doesnt go into protect. i used a multimeter to check my power voltage and got a little over 12 volts from the power and my remote was getting 11.5 volts. i guess it was getting 11.5 because i checked with the car turned on but not started. i tried to check my rcas with the multimeter but it wasnt making sense to me. i touched the positive to the prong and the neg to the outer shell and soon as i touched it the volts jumped to .20 but then slowly went down to .03. is this correct or not. also what is the correct procedure for testing the rcas because i have read on many forums many ways of doing it. i know the prong is pos and the shell is neg but when i check them should i check one side of the rca at a time or do i use one side for the pos and the other for the neg?
also everything is the exact same thing that i removed from my tahoe. the amp is only about 2 weeks old i bought it a couple of days before i traded my tahoe in. the only difference is the radio wirng harness. i had to use the gmos-01 metra harness so i could retain my door chimes and all that.

Did you ever find a solution for this? I am having the same problem as far as I can tell. I just installed a new set of Kicker L7 10" 2-ohm (wired like https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp~Q~2~I~22) to a Kicker zx1000.1 amp in my 99 F150 and I have power to the amp and the remote lead but nothing on the other side of the amp to go out to the speakers. I tried with a multi-meter (dc 2000 setting) and I was getting readings at the battery, Fuse 1, Fuse 2, and amp connections but not at speaker connections or RCS tips (pos to prong and neg to shield)

If you got a solution to your problem maybe it might work in my case if not maybe someone else knows what it could be.

Thanks in advance for any help anyone can provide.





Posted By: ace_boy2099
Date Posted: February 16, 2010 at 12:28 PM
ace_boy2099 wrote:


Did you ever find a solution for this? I am having the same problem as far as I can tell. I just installed a new set of Kicker L7 10" 2-ohm (wired like https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp~Q~2~I~22) to a Kicker zx1000.1 amp in my 99 F150 and I have power to the amp and the remote lead but nothing on the other side of the amp to go out to the speakers. I tried with a multi-meter (dc 2000 setting) and I was getting readings at the battery, Fuse 1, Fuse 2, and amp connections but not at speaker connections or RCS tips (pos to prong and neg to shield)

If you got a solution to your problem maybe it might work in my case if not maybe someone else knows what it could be.

Thanks in advance for any help anyone can provide.


Never Mind, I got it figured out. Apparently It worked all along I just didn't know how to set the settings and because of that the settings were so low nothing was being produced.






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