Printer Friendly Forum Posts - new subs, too much bass

I have a 2000 TransAm with the Monsoon stereo system. I had to replace the 2 6.5" subs that are in the sail panels. I decided to go aftermarket on the subs because i replaced them once before with original GM but they didn't last long. I installed Audiopipe 6.5" TS-V6 subs. The original subs are 4 ohm dual voice coil speakers. The Audiopipes are also 4 ohm dual voice coil speakers so i hooked them up the same way as the originals. The problem im having is i have to turn the bass way down on the EQ because on song that have alot of bass it sounds distorted but when i play a song with not that much bass it sounds like there is no bass at all. With the OEM speakers i had the EQ set and never had to adjust it. Is it possible the Audiopipes have a lower frequency range compared to the OEM's ? Is there a way to cut some of the bass without lowering the EQ way down ?
I hope i'm explaining this right lol

Thanks

are you positive you hooked the polarity up correctly? What happens when you balance all the way to the left or right, does it sound better?

-------------
Kevin Pierson

Buy an aftermarket amp for aftermarket subs. The factory speakers have a x-over frequency range for each speaker input. They are not technically subs per say. Basically you are sending the higher frequency to one voice coil and the lower frequency for the other.

For monsoon i usually recommend doing a full amp bypass to negate this effect. To make it sound similar to what you had before, return the 6.5 sub. Get a single 10" DVC sub such as infinity and put it in the hatch area.

For the speakers you will want 4 new speakers and either run them off an aftermarket stereo which will distort the sound at higher volumes b/c not enough juice, or get a 4 channel amp. Mount each amp under each seat. Or just get a 5 channel amp.

That or you can get replacement speakers and save yourself some money. But aftermarket is cheaper to replace down the road. Either way get that sub off of the factory system ASAP! So you don't cause any more damage than you possibly have.

I suspect you have an impedance or a polarity issue. The speaker is probably not hooked up correctly - even if you hooked it "exactly like" the OEM was connected you can't be certain since OEM system often use non-standard connections..

-------------
Support the12volt.com

Before i disconnected the speaker harness pigtail from the original speaker i verified polarity with a battery to the speaker. I didn't verify polarity with the new speakers because they were clearly marked red and black. When i balance all the way left or right it sounds the same.

OK, next question, are you 100% sure the OEM speaker is a dual voice coil sub and not a sub with a seperate midrange or tweeter?

I would try disconnecting one coil of the added sub and make sure you aren't feeding each coil with a different signal (like mentioned above).

-------------
Kevin Pierson

KPierson wrote:

OK, next question, are you 100% sure the OEM speaker is a dual voice coil sub and not a sub with a seperate midrange or tweeter?

I would try disconnecting one coil of the added sub and make sure you aren't feeding each coil with a different signal (like mentioned above).

I am 100% sure, its DVC. I already tried connecting one side only on the speaker but its too low.

Sounds like the speakers are moving to much, probably not as stiff as the factory. You might try reducing the airspace behind the speaker, rewiring speakers to series to reduce power, or trying a better speaker.(bigger coil, longer throw)

I spoke with someone tonight about this and he also said i should reduce the airspace behind the speaker with some filla foam. He also said the new speakers have a higher sensitivity rating compared to the factory ones, thats why its louder. He said to put a 6 or 8 ohm sandstone resistor in series with the positive lead to reduce it.

Oh.....My.....God... ((O.o)

Seriously?

vinnnny wrote:

I spoke with someone tonight about this and he also said i should reduce the airspace behind the speaker with some filla foam. He also said the new speakers have a higher sensitivity rating compared to the factory ones, thats why its louder. He said to put a 6 or 8 ohm sandstone resistor in series with the positive lead to reduce it.

-------------
Life is too short to build slow computers or weak audio!

vinnnny wrote:

I spoke with someone tonight about this and he also said i should reduce the airspace behind the speaker with some filla foam. He also said the new speakers have a higher sensitivity rating compared to the factory ones, thats why its louder. He said to put a 6 or 8 ohm sandstone resistor in series with the positive lead to reduce it.

Adding foam will do nothing, and the sensitivity difference is not your problem. Here's a few questions. 1) is the rest of the system 100% stock? 2) did you change anything else? 3) Perform a polarity check on both voice coils of the new sub. it is not unknown for the polarity markings to be wrong. 4) Are you certain the OEM sub was connected to the amp in parallel?

-------------
Support the12volt.com

The system is 100% stock, did not modify anything. The OEM sub is using 2 channels each from the amp. 4 ohms each to run at 2 ohms. The picture i posted of the OEM speaker has 2 leads going to each voice coil. I setup the new speaker the same way. I will check the polarity of the new speakers when i pull them back out. If the sensitivity is not the issue why would they much louder than the OEM speakers ?

The symptom you describe is an amplifier problem, not a speaker problem, although the speakers are causing it if nothing else was changed. That's why I think you have them hooked up wrong. Or it is possible the amp is fried.

-------------
Support the12volt.com

DYohn] wrote:

The symptom you describe is an amplifier problem, not a speaker problem, although the speakers are causing it if nothing else was changed. That's why I think you have them hooked up wrong. Or it is possible the amp is fried.

How would i have hooked them up wrong ? I removed the pigtail from the original speaker and hooked them up exactly the same on the new speaker. Both speakers are 4 ohm dvc. 2 years ago i replaced the subs because they were blown with another two OEM subs from the dealer and they worked fine. Now the subs are blown again and instead of buying oem's again i decided to buy a better speaker. The OEM's are known not to last long. Its not an amp issue because everything works with stock speakers.

My personal opinion on the matter, even though I don't have any experiance with your OEM system, is why would the factory put in a DVC sub? They are running, what 50watts rms to it off a single amp? Stock systems are designed for the car, and designing it with a DVC sub would only increase cost, something the factory won't want to do. Also, if the sub was a DVC sub then there would be only two wires going to it, not four like it appears to be in the picture.

I'm not saying it is impossible to be a DVC sub, but I would expect it to be a sub and a midrange in one basket, or a sub and tweeter, etc. A DVC speaker just makes no sense.

-------------
Kevin Pierson

KPierson wrote:

My personal opinion on the matter, even though I don't have any experiance with your OEM system, is why would the factory put in a DVC sub? They are running, what 50watts rms to it off a single amp? Stock systems are designed for the car, and designing it with a DVC sub would only increase cost, something the factory won't want to do. Also, if the sub was a DVC sub then there would be only two wires going to it, not four like it appears to be in the picture.

I'm not saying it is impossible to be a DVC sub, but I would expect it to be a sub and a midrange in one basket, or a sub and tweeter, etc. A DVC speaker just makes no sense.

Im not an expert in car audio by any means BUT you are wrong about a DVC sub only having 2 wires going to it, they have 4.
Here is a quote from a Monsoon FAQ, Firebird coupes have component 6.5S (6.5" oversize) 2-ohm mids and .75" 4-ohm tweeters mounted separately in the doors, dual voice coil 6.5S (4-ohm + 4-ohm) subs mounted in the sail panels (beside the rear seat). The FAQ is located here https://www.ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-electronics/612644-monsoon-faq.html

vinnnny, no need to attack those who are trying to help you.

I suggest taking your car to a good local car audio shop and get the subwoofer system tested by a pro. It is apparently impossible to troubleshoot it adequately over the internet.

-------------
Support the12volt.com

DYohn] wrote:

vinnnny, no need to attack those who are trying to help you.

I suggest taking your car to a good local car audio shop and get the subwoofer system tested by a pro. It is apparently impossible to troubleshoot it adequately over the internet.

I am not attacking those that are trying to help me. I just said that he was wrong about the DVC sub only having 2 wires instead of 4 and posted a link to that info. Nothing wrong with that, is there ?

I have decided to remove the new speakers and order 2 new OEM DVC subs from GM and cut my losses from there.

If I'm wrong I'm wrong, sorry for any misinformation.

If they are indeed dvc subs why would GM use DVC over SVC for a stock application? Anyone got any ideas or theories? That seems very, very odd to me.

-------------
Kevin Pierson

i seem to remember that they had one coil connected to the front channel and the other coil connected to the rear channel. The speakers are crossed over low enough that you can not hear where the sound is coming from. Fade to the front, and the sub plays. Fade to the rear, it still plays. Fader in the middle, both coils are playing.

-------------
Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB