2006 silverado, fixing system

So recently both my sub and highs amp shut off in my 2006 silverado and haven't turned back on. I was havin problems recently with the sub amp turning off for a few seconds and then turning back on but not with the amp for my highs. My power wire fuse is not blown. My capacitor's green light is still on but the voltage meter is not. I am not sure if i have a problem with my remote wire or something is wrong with my ground. I really dont have a lot of free time right now to dig in there myself and all my equipment is about an hour away from where i now live. Any ideas would be appreciated.

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Head Unit - Pioneer P80MP
Sub - 1 10" Soundstream T-5
Amps - 1 Kicker KX400.1, 1 Legacy crap 2 channel
Door Speakers - Audiobahn 600V Components
Box - Custom by Southern Sound in Statesboro, GA

so no meter...??

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Test your voltage with a DMM. Try removing your capacitor to determine if it is the cause of your problem. If the digital read out on your cap isn't functioning, that should tell you something is wrong with the cap.

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How did you determine that your fuse is not blown.  Is it an AGU type fuse?  Those sometimes look like they are intact, but actually are not.  To find out 100% you need a DMM.  And do as custom said, test voltage....BEFORE and AFTER the fuse under the hood and at your connections on the cap.  I'm willing to bet that your fuse is blown, and the reason that your sub amp was shutting off before was because it was going into thermal protection.  Second guess is the CAP... 

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...half of the truth can be worse than a lie. <----Roger Russell said that..

The fuse under the hood is an ANL style, still installed from a previous much larger system. It is 150A so the current equipment couldnt blow it unless there was a short, and if you have ever seen a blown 150A ANL then you know how obvious it is. Also the fact that the light is on in the capacitor is showing there is some type of voltage flowing. As far as the cap being bad, I would think that since the power cord ring terminals layer on top of one another, that they current would then just bypass the cap on the fact of choosing the path of less resistance. As far as my meters go, they are about an hour away from where i live now with alot of my other equipment.

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Head Unit - Pioneer P80MP
Sub - 1 10" Soundstream T-5
Amps - 1 Kicker KX400.1, 1 Legacy crap 2 channel
Door Speakers - Audiobahn 600V Components
Box - Custom by Southern Sound in Statesboro, GA

Oh and as far as thermal protection goes, unless there is an internal problem with the switch inside the amp that controls this then I am sure that is not the problem. The amp is currently running at a 4-ohm load and has made 4 hour drives when i had it on 2-ohms and wouldnt hard break a sweat.

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Head Unit - Pioneer P80MP
Sub - 1 10" Soundstream T-5
Amps - 1 Kicker KX400.1, 1 Legacy crap 2 channel
Door Speakers - Audiobahn 600V Components
Box - Custom by Southern Sound in Statesboro, GA

Did you at least inspect your ground? You could have a loose or dirty connection. Bad grounds will cause the symptoms you have listed. Yes the green light on your cap indicates that there is SOME current. As far as the amps go, it takes a bit more juice to turn on. Check all grounds and go from there. Good luck!

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The grounds are fine. They are tight and are the same grounds I have been using for systems with almost 5 times the power. I do have, what I would consider, a fair amount of knowledge on car audio and installs, but this one just has me stumped. I can't find any obvious electrical shorts anywhere and nothing has been moved as far as i know. I am probably going to take it up to Southern Sound next week and have them strip the wiring out and restart it. I just don't have the time right now.

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Head Unit - Pioneer P80MP
Sub - 1 10" Soundstream T-5
Amps - 1 Kicker KX400.1, 1 Legacy crap 2 channel
Door Speakers - Audiobahn 600V Components
Box - Custom by Southern Sound in Statesboro, GA