amp

whats the diffrence between a Class A/B Operation amp, and a Class D Operation amp?

also, if the amp says 1 ohm stable, does that mean i will get the best performance out of my sub if i run it on 1 ohm?

thanks in advance! :D

yimke] wrote:

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lass A/B is a hybrid between A and B. I would recommend these for running 4 channels. The efficiency on these are around 60-70% depending on the design. Class A amplifiers are on 100% of the time and are known for their great "no distortion" characteristics. Class B on the other hand are switched on/off so they are on only 50% of the time. They suffer mass "crossover distortion" so I would NEVER use this for pushing speakers, only subs. But luckily today most of the amps out there are the hybrid between the two and much better design/efficiency.

Class D amplifiers are typically called switching amplifiers. The signal or Sine wave is broken down into individual segments switching on/off. And the actually output it slightly after the input sine wave. This usually causes distortion at the higher frequencies, so a LP filter is recommended on them and these are meant for subs. The greatest benefit of this is efficiency though. Class D amps are around 90% or above efficiency now.

Just because an amp says it is 1 ohm stable doesn't mean that you absolutely have to run it at 1 ohm. The downside to running it this low of impedance is the amp runs HOT. This can lead to less efficiency and possible overheating damage to the circuits of the amp. If you ran it at 2 ohms on the same amp theoretically you would only lose 3db. Most people cant notice the difference, and your amp will be happier in the long run.

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1) There are no "Class B" amplifiers available today.

2) the high-pass filter in a Class D amplifier is to remove the noise from the switching frequency of the output device and is generally not in the audible band.  There are plenty of great sounding full-range class D amplifiers: they are NOT just "meant for subs."

ok thanks for the help guys!

im planning on running a 600 watt RMS Performance Technique 12" DVC Sub at 2ohms,

can anyone tell me if this amp would sound good with it?

• Amplifier Class : Class A/B
• Number of Channels : 1-Channel
• Maximum Power : 1100 Watts
• RMS Power Output @ 4 Ohms : 250 Watts x 1-Channel
• MAX Power Output @ 2 Ohms : 1100 Watts x 1-Channel
• Bridged Power : N/A
• THD : 0.01%
• Signal-to-Noise Ratio (dB) : 103dB
• Frequency Response (Hz) : 9Hz~50kHz
• Built-in Crossover : Yes
• High-Pass Crossover Frequency : Fixed, 200Hz
• Low-Pass Crossover Frequency : 35Hz~160Hz
• Bass Boost : 0dB~+18dB
• Bass Remote : Yes
• Fan Cooled : N/A
• Fuse Rating : 25A x 1

-Thanks again for all your help!!!  

Can't tell you how it is going to sound, but if you look closely at the power ratings, notice that they give you the RMS into 4 ohms and they give you max into 2 ohms.
So as long as you know you are going to be sending no more than 500 watts to your speaker, and that is enough power for you, then so be it.

93_civic wrote:

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Fuse Rating : 25A x 1

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25A @ 14.4 volts, with 65% Class A/B efficiency means this amp will produce approximately 234 watts.  Must be a marginal brand to publish the bogus specs you list.

my bad! hey DYohn, can u tell me what approximate wattage this amp will get?

thanks again!