adding a second battery

im planning to get a HC600 for my amps. and i have a 1 farad rockford capacitor (RFC1D). should i install the cap along with the second battery? will it be any use if i used it? btw, my main battery is a Duralast battery. Thanks people.

There is really no way to answer without knowing if your current alternator is "beefy" enough to support adding a 2nd battery and a cap...! You already upgraded the big 3...? Just remember...The alternator will then have to charge a 2nd battery and cap...! https://bcae1.com/charging.htm

Dimming lights:

When you play your system at very high volumes and the lights on your vehicle dim slightly, it generally means that your alternator can not supply enough current for all of your electrical accessories (including your amplifiers). If you play a long bass note/tone and the lights get dim and stay dim until the note is over, your alternator clearly can not keep up with the current demand. If, on a long bass note, the lights dim just for a fraction of a second but return to their original brightness while the note/tone is still playing, the alternator's regulator may just be a little slow in reacting to the voltage drop. Since the lights return to their original brightness during the bass note, the alternator is able to supply the current needed by your power your amplifiers and other electrical accessories.

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

no i havnt done the big 3. its a stock alternator. i have a 93 camry. i think its 70 or 80 amps. to be honest, this cap reduced the dimming on my head lights. but the voltage drops to 10-11 when the bass hits. what would be a good move from here?

Upgrading Your Charging System Alternators: As we said on the charging system basics page, the alternator supplies all of the power to all of the electrical accessories (amplifiers, lights, power windows, power seats...) as long as the engine is running. Upgrading the alternator is generally the most cost effective way to add more performance to your system. In the next few paragraphs I'll attempt to explain why other remedies may not solve your problem and may even make it worse. Many people want to know when they should replace their alternator. The short answer is... when it fails. If you just want the battery to remain charged and your present alternator is keeping it charged, it's doing its job. If you want a system to be as close to perfect as possible and money is no object, replace your alternator when you install the amplifiers. Extra batteries: Extra batteries are great if you want to listen to your system with the engine off. While the alternator is charging, the extra batteries will only draw current which could otherwise be going to your amplifiers. For proof, all you have to do is measure the voltage while the engine is running. It should be approximately 13.5-14.4 volts DC. Then turn the engine off and measure the battery voltage again. Now it'll be around 12-12.5 volts. Whenever the voltage at the battery is up around 14 volts, there is current flowing into the battery. One Farad capacitors: Large, one Farad, capacitors only help to maintain the charging voltage for a tiny fraction of a second under high current demand situations. They do a fine job of filling small dips in voltage and may help reduce your lights from dimming but they won't really solve your current supply problems if your alternator can't keep up. NOTE: Capacitors DO NOT increase the charging system's voltage. Battery Isolators: Battery isolators only prevent draining your starting battery when playing your system with the engine off. Most of the time they will actually rob power from your system. Diode type isolators will usually have a small voltage drop across the diodes (approximately .4 - .7 volts). This loss of voltage will dissipate power in the form of heat and unless you're freezing to death, it doesn't help matters. Solenoid type isolators don't have as much voltage loss as the diode based isolators but the solenoid coil does pull current. Some coils may pull as much as 3 amps of current. Now 3 amps of current isn't much but if you're using 2 solenoids and you're already having trouble with a weak alternator, it'll just add to your problem.

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

The big 3 should have been done many,many posts ago...! You need to do this and then check voltage...Then make you decision...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

im not planning to blast my music with the engine off. i always have my engine running when i play my music.

tommy... wrote:

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The big 3 should have been done many,many posts ago...! You need to do this and then check voltage...Then make you decision...!

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okay. so your saying to do the big 3 first before anything right? how would i know if i need to upgrade my alt.?

By doing the big 3...Checking voltage...Then...if needed...upgrade the alternator...! Im guessing this is going to be inevitable...!(upgrading alternator...)...But you have to upgrade these wires anyway...Do that first...! What size power wire do you have... What size is the wire from your alternator to the battery...? How about the wire from the negative battery terminal to the chassis...? (kirchoffs law) did i spell that right...? Something about the sum entering must equal the sum leaving...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

tommy... wrote:

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By doing the big 3...Checking voltage...Then...if needed...upgrade the alternator...! Im guessing this is going to be inevitable...!(upgrading alternator...)...But you have to upgrade these wires anyway...Do that first...! What size power wire do you have... What size is the wire from your alternator to the battery...? How about the wire from the negative battery terminal to the chassis...? (kirchoffs law) did i spell that right...? Something about the sum entering must equal the sum leaving...

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when i check the voltage after doing the big 3 .. how would i know to upgrade to new alt.?


all the wiring under the hood is all stock. im guess like 8-12 gauge? im running a 4 gauge from my main battery to my amp.

If the voltage is still low...10-11 is not very good...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

no a cap and a battery is useless unless you have a HO alternator.

what will happen if i dont do the big 3 and i got that hc 600?

...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

what if i installed the HC600 w/o doing the big 3?

Your poor alternator has to work harder...I think i covered this ...No...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Upgrading Your Charging System

Alternators:

As we said on the charging system basics page, the alternator supplies all of the power to all of the electrical accessories (amplifiers, lights, power windows, power seats...) as long as the engine is running. Upgrading the alternator is generally the most cost effective way to add more performance to your system. In the next few paragraphs I'll attempt to explain why other remedies may not solve your problem and may even make it worse.

-------------
M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Dimming lights:

When you play your system at very high volumes and the lights on your vehicle dim slightly, it generally means that your alternator can not supply enough current for all of your electrical accessories (including your amplifiers). If you play a long bass note/tone and the lights get dim and stay dim until the note is over, your alternator clearly can not keep up with the current demand. If, on a long bass note, the lights dim just for a fraction of a second but return to their original brightness while the note/tone is still playing, the alternator's regulator may just be a little slow in reacting to the voltage drop. Since the lights return to their original brightness during the bass note, the alternator is able to supply the current needed by your power your amplifiers and other electrical accessories.

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

But hey...Why do things right...? Go ahead...Get a 2nd battery...! Dont do any upgrades...And enjoy...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

imupabove wrote:

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what if i installed the HC600 w/o doing the big 3?

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A second battery is only going to extend the time you can play your system with the car off. Since you said you don't listen to your music without the car being on it is pretty much useless to do this. The big 3 upgrade would be much more beneficial in your situation.

The info tommy gave explains this quite well...

whiterob wrote:

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A second battery is only going to extend the time you can play your system with the car off. Since you said you don't listen to your music without the car being on it is pretty much useless to do this. The big 3 upgrade would be much more beneficial in your situation.

The info tommy gave explains this quite well...

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when i do the big 3 .. how will i know if i need a H/O?

imupabove wrote:

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whiterob wrote:

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A second battery is only going to extend the time you can play your system with the car off. Since you said you don't listen to your music without the car being on it is pretty much useless to do this. The big 3 upgrade would be much more beneficial in your situation.

The info tommy gave explains this quite well...

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when i do the big 3 .. how will i know if i need a H/O?

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If you still have very low voltage. If your voltage is still below 12 volts when the car is on and all of your wiring and grounds are secure then you will need a new alternator.

Even if you do get a new alternator you need to do the big 3. So it is necessary for a high output alternator anyways.

my car read 14 volts when the car is on right now. but when the bass drops it drop to 10-11 volts.

so invest in a big 3 now, and get a 2nd battery and a h/o alt?

LOL HAHA.
Big Three   = YES

HO Alt.     = Maybe

2nd Battery = NO

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UNLABELED Custom Car Club President

how would you know though?

if i get the big 3, wouldnt it drain the crap out of my battery and alt.?

With a good alternator, you should be able to start the car, completely remove the battery, and still have a normal functioning electrical system

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UNLABELED Custom Car Club President

so your saying if you do the big 3...Your going to be in worse shape then you currently are...? How is that...? If the voltage is still low after doing the big 3...Might be time to invest in a bigger alternator...!(for the 6th time...or so...)...And i think i understand what black civic is saying...But never do that...Just taking a terminal off...can cause voltage spikes ...etc...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

imupabove wrote:

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how would you know though?

if i get the big 3, wouldnt it drain the crap out of my battery and alt.?

---

'

Why...? Whats your thought process here...? No...Worse case...You get a better reading then 10-11v...If it is still low....And your power and ground are the correct size...And the ground is in the best location/spot possible...The only way to add more "power"...Is to produce more "current."..IE...bigger alternator...! Imagine if your voltage was holding at 13v during those same low bass notes...Doing the big 3 is the first step here...Quit jumping around the checklist...Do it right...Follow direction...You and your wallet and your car and your system will be so much happier...But hey...If you really want that battery...I can drop ship it to your address...!!! Shoot me a P.M...1-3 days...(DUDE...JUST DO THE FREAKING BIG 3 UPGRADE...IT IS SO CHEAP AND EASY TO DO...AND SHOULD BE INCORPORATED IN MOST SYSTEMS...ESPECIALLY A SYSTEM DROPPING TO 10-11V...SHHEEESSHH...!)

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

tommy... wrote:

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imupabove wrote:

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how would you know though?

if i get the big 3, wouldnt it drain the crap out of my battery and alt.?

---

'

Why...? Whats your thought process here...? No...Worse case...You get a better reading then 10-11v...If it is still low....And your power and ground are the correct size...And the ground is in the best location/spot possible...The only way to add more "power"...Is to produce more "current."..IE...bigger alternator...! Imagine if your voltage was holding at 13v during those same low bass notes...Doing the big 3 is the first step here...Quit jumping around the checklist...Do it right...Follow direction...You and your wallet and your car and your system will be so much happier...But hey...If you really want that battery...I can drop ship it to your address...!!! Shoot me a P.M...1-3 days...(DUDE...JUST DO THE FREAKING BIG 3 UPGRADE...IT IS SO CHEAP AND EASY TO DO...AND SHOULD BE INCORPORATED IN MOST SYSTEMS...ESPECIALLY A SYSTEM DROPPING TO 10-11V...SHHEEESSHH...!)

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this...

No one said you needed another battery. We all are recommending the big 3 and possibly an alternator upgrade if you still have low voltage. We are all also recommending not getting a second battery because it will NOT help you.

The battery is only going to start your car and run your accessories when the car is off. When the car is running the battery plays a minimal role in the charging system.

okay thanks people. i appreciate your honesty and input.

when i have the big 3 installed.. what if i cant afford a new alt. at that moment, will it hurt anything?

You...at the very least...will be in better shape then you are now...Whats up with thinking the big 3 will damage/hurt/drain anything...? Plus when you do upgrade...Your ready...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

im willing to go with this upgrade (big 3), but wouldnt it drain/alt.? my main battery is stock (Duralast X]). and a 70-80 amp alt.

imupabove wrote:

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im willing to go with this upgrade (big 3), but wouldnt it drain/alt.? my main battery is stock (Duralast X]). and a 70-80 amp alt.

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Why...Why...Why...Why...? Where is this coming from...You are simply upgrading the factory wires to a bigger gauge...Why would it drain anything...? Is it draining it now...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

pretty much. my EQ light knobs dim the most. but my headlights for some reason dont dim "alot". i do i have a 1 farad RF cap.

I recently installed a system in my Corolla. After being away from car audio for 25+ years there is much to learn. After completing the Big3 I noticed no more engine noise and slight improvement on voltage to the amp. Your alternator is not fighting the resistance of those small factory wires. My headlights still dimmed but not too bad. So, I installed the recommended 1/0 power cable to the amp and this made an even greater improvement on my headlight dimming. I still need to upgrade the alternator. Completing the Big3 will give you a good foundation to build whatever system you plan on running, plain and simple. It's not as bad as it seems, just take your time and make sure you solder all your copper lugs. It was time and money well spent.